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Old 02-07-2019, 04:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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97' 4Runner Build Wontons

So here i am making my first post on the notorious pirate4x4. Ive been surfing this forum for many years and have finally been convinced to start my own build thread. So here's what i got: 1997 Toyota 4Runner, 3.4L, SR-5. I originally bought the rig 3 years ago for $2,100 with 250,000 miles on the motor. I was told it was used solely to commute back and forth from Reno to the SF Bay Area with. Within the week I already had the thing up on jackstands in the garage and that is where it has stayed. Due to the work load of school i had not wrenched on it for a good year and a half but the ball has finally been rolling again and hope to have it done by the summer. Living in the SF Bay Area, the Con is only 3 hours away which is the typical wheeling spot. The plan is to build a rig that can drive me up and around town, wheel the trails, and then drive home. The rig will be doing mainly slow crawling on the rocks.
The game plan:

Front End- 1979 Ford D60 HP Kingpin/ 3 Link/ Hydro Assist/ Reid Knuckles/
14" Fox Emulsion Coilovers

Rear End- FF 14 Bolt/ ARB/ 5.13s/ 4 Link/ 12" Fox Emulsion Coilovers

Drive Train- Running a 4.7 Marlin Crawler Box to the stock 2.8:1/ Keeping it
Driver side drop/ FFOR T-case Mount

Fuel tank- 94' Ford F-150 Fuel Tank between frame rails in the rear

Here is a picture the day i drove it home


And here it is after only a week of owning it

Here is the Marlin Crawler Case that was purchased


So i had purchased the Front Range Offroad T-case mount that bolts to the front of the stock case, the mount itself was impressivly beefy but the plates they give you that weld to the inside of the frame were faking dinky. So i decided to go ahead and build my own.





So now that the mounts are set i started working on the rear links. The Upper frame mounts are the adjustable ones from ruffstuff. With the heim placed at the center hole i am getting the 73% AS which is seen on the calculator. The other two holes will drop or raise the AS about 20%.

Last edited by seanresavy; 02-11-2019 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 02-07-2019, 04:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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cont...

With the lower links i decided to build my own axle mounts to save some pennies. The cross-member to which they meet the framer i built around 2 ruffstuff mounts intended to mount under the frame.





Here is how she is sitting right now.


With the rear links set, i have decided to move onto working on the front links. I Still have a little bit to learn before taking care of the coilovers in the rear, so rather than flip flop between links and shocks, i will get the links done all at once, so i can tackle all four coil overs at once. Yesterday i was able to position the axle housing where i wanted it in the X,Y, and Z . Here is how she sits.


I will start taking measurements tonight and look at different design possibilities.
Question: what kind of roll axis angles are people getting out there? Anything close to 0?
With the little i've played with the calculator so far, i cannot get my RAA under 5 degrees. Ill try my best to keep up with the posts as the build progresses. i appreciate any CONSTRUCTIVE criticism.
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Old 02-07-2019, 09:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nice build. Iím not a fan of those tcase mounts as they break Transfercases. But otherwise looking awesome.
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Old 02-08-2019, 03:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Did someone convert that HP D60 front to passenger drop?
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Old 02-08-2019, 05:34 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Did someone convert that HP D60 front to passenger drop?
in his first pic, the case and axle are drivers drop....that last one is passenger
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Old 02-08-2019, 05:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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in his first pic, the case and axle are drivers drop....that last one is passenger
If you look at the diff cover itís backwards as well I suspect itís a reversed image.
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Old 02-08-2019, 05:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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selfie would do that
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Old 02-08-2019, 06:04 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Looks like a strong start. Is the lower link crossmember going to stay bolted in place?
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Old 02-08-2019, 08:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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selfie would do that
That would make sense.
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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White 4runner club too looks good man!

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Old 02-08-2019, 10:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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If you look at the diff cover itís backwards as well I suspect itís a reversed image.
The last image of the front of the rig is a selfie pic, so the image is reversed. ill post up a correct pic.
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Old 02-08-2019, 10:20 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Looks like a strong start. Is the lower link crossmember going to stay bolted in place?
Yes the Lower Link cross member is going to stay bolted in place, I figure the force that it will be seeing, the design is plenty strong. was contemplating inserting a piece of metal in between the frame and the cross member though so that way the entire crossmember would be flush.
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Old 02-08-2019, 10:30 AM   #13 (permalink)
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White 4runner club too looks good man!

sick 4Runner man! you have a write up on the build? would love to see what you did with the front suspension
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:09 AM   #14 (permalink)
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sick 4Runner man! you have a write up on the build? would love to see what you did with the front suspension
No write up on this one - I am a terrible fabricator, I had a good friend rebuild it this time (like the third build of this truck). PM me your number I'll text you pics and info though.
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:12 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yes the Lower Link cross member is going to stay bolted in place, I figure the force that it will be seeing, the design is plenty strong. was contemplating inserting a piece of metal in between the frame and the cross member though so that way the entire crossmember would be flush.
I dunno, that bolt-in link crossmember looks like it will rip itself out instantly. I'd get that welded in.
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Old 02-08-2019, 12:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Nice build. Iím not a fan of those tcase mounts as they break Transfercases. But otherwise looking awesome.

Not if you have the motor mounted solid too.
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Old 02-08-2019, 08:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Not if you have the motor mounted solid too.
True.
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Old 02-09-2019, 10:21 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Not if you have the motor mounted solid too.
What motor mounts would you recommend than?
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Old 02-09-2019, 10:24 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Here is an updated pic of the front of the rig (not in selfie mode)
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Old 02-09-2019, 11:48 AM   #20 (permalink)
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What motor mounts would you recommend than?
Trail mart bomb proof is what I ran on my last rig. This one, I'll probably just through bolt the stockers (that's in the faq I think), or build some to fit the new angle my drivetrain sits at since I've flat bellied it.
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:16 PM   #21 (permalink)
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sick
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Old 02-11-2019, 06:47 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Progress

Alright so today i ordered front frame reinforcement plates from summit. Tomorrow i will be placing an order from ruffstuff for a panhard bar kit, upper link axle tower and mount as well as some minor parts like 5/8 misalignment spacers and what not. I've been playing with the calculator some more the last few days and have been narrowing the designs down to something acceptable lol Also, **BIG SHOUT OUT** to downpour11 for hooking it up with a driveshaft for the rear. He had a shaft laying around from the previous build that he wasn't using and offered it as it would be a perfect match for the 4Runner! its a long travel CV shaft with toy U-joints. Will simply cut the axle end to accept a 1350 joint and Presto!!
Heres some current pics


Last edited by seanresavy; 02-11-2019 at 06:48 PM.
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Old 03-06-2019, 09:00 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Back at it

Since my last post i got in an order from ruffstuff with all the front link brackets and misc i ordered in order to link up the front. I also got in some front Taco frame reinforcement plates that should work perfect for the runner. I also received a driveshaft sent to me by downpour11 that is gonna work perfect for the rear! Thanks again man you rock! The whole shaft is Toy U-joints. So i will keeps the joints in the CV portion that will mount to my stock case, and at the axle end i will simply cut it and weld on a new yoke to accept a 1350 joint.



I was also able to get into the Machine Shop at school and make a few "dummy spacers" that i will use when welding up brackets so i dont have to expose my heims to any type of current or heat. Your [email protected] Mr. Long!



So today i started looking to link up the front D60. I put the axle on jackstands instead of sitting on the tires so id be able to clock the tires and see what my link clearance would be. I had made some quick mock up mounts to hold the Lower links to the axle while i played around with moving the Frame end of the lower links. Im probably gonna be in the ball park of a 40-46" lower link. I came to realize though that i could move them wherever i pleased but without having the T-cases in i was really just wasting my time.





I spent the rest of the day installing my T-cases again. This was the first time ive had the drivetrain sitting on purely the FFOR mount. If you look at the FFOR website it says that the new polyurethane bushings they supply are softer and are less likely to crack cases so i guess we'll see. Any thought on this one The next time i wrench i will be removing the welded portion of the stock tranny mount to make way for the lower links.


Last edited by seanresavy; 03-06-2019 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 03-08-2019, 08:57 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Glad to hear that driveline will work out for you man!
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:46 AM   #25 (permalink)
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So the driveline is a perfect fit. the only thing i was concerned about was it clearing the crossmember for the lower links in the rear but as you can see it will clear.


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