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Old 03-25-2019, 10:41 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo View Post
I was really surprised at how many manufacturers don't have decent pics of their own bumpers on their website.

The 3rd Gen looks like it's from a completely different company.

As far as the ifs goes. Keep it, it's fun I ran 35s on bone stock ifs on my 90 for about 2 years. I wanted to do the blaze land style long travel, but I the frame was tweeked so I ended up chopping it at the firewall and doing an FJ80 SAS.
Nice! I'd be lying if I said I didn't email Blazeland today
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Old 03-26-2019, 12:59 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Nice! I'd be lying if I said I didn't email Blazeland today
My daily 1st gen 4Runner is on 35's with the IFS. I've always wanted a nice IFS but I don't think it would be worth spending money on if you keep the 7.5.
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Old 03-26-2019, 05:28 PM   #28 (permalink)
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My daily 1st gen 4Runner is on 35's with the IFS. I've always wanted a nice IFS but I don't think it would be worth spending money on if you keep the 7.5.
I think I'm going to give it a go. What's the worse that could happen

I haven't seen to many failures on the 7.5" R&P, mostly I've seen CV's blowing. Looks like full droop, full steer and reverse are where they are having issues.

I shot @waynehartwig a quote request for some diff parts. 5.29's, Lockers, Rebuild kits and some other stuff

Also, I got a call my driveshafts are ready!
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Last edited by Diablo169; 03-26-2019 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 03-26-2019, 08:18 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Stuff i have or brother broke on your intended set up is, a lock right, ring and pinion , and 2 short side axles. Everything took general hard use then it was that moment you can't make that or the front got a bounce and air , rice crispies
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Old 03-27-2019, 10:50 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Stuff i have or brother broke on your intended set up is, a lock right, ring and pinion , and 2 short side axles. Everything took general hard use then it was that moment you can't make that or the front got a bounce and air , rice crispies
That's good to hear. They seem to be pretty cheap to source replacement parts for. If the whole front grenades I might go a different route
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Old 03-27-2019, 11:23 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Dialing in the Triple Shifters. I cut the front 1/2 of the floor boot and plate off, and will build the rest around the new triple boot. The W56 shifter is perfect with the 1" taller short throw shifter base and the 1" Body Lift.

The triple boot is going to be tight, it's huge. I might have to get creative to keep it looking factoryish. T-Case shifters clear the tunnel and the factory center consul, and are about 1/8" from hitting the trans shifter when in 1st and 3rd when in double low. Worst case I get smaller T-Case knobs.

This pic, Hi, Hi, 2wd, W56 Neutral.


High Tech AF Shift Level reworking


I redid the clutch soft line with some AN stuff. My factory hardline at the slave was incredible kinked. I did the same on the Juggy, and its held up for 4 years now. Line is DOT approved.



I installed a new Aisin Master and slave and let it gravity bleed. Clutch seems to be working fine.



Check this out, it still had the lower radiator shroud piece. I didn't relocate the radiator with the 1" Body Lift, so this piece had to go as the fan was contacting it.

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Old 03-29-2019, 10:26 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Got everything mostly back together and fired her up and ran through the gears. All is quiet. Tomorrow I'll install the rear driveshaft and drive around a bit.

Picked up the reworked drive shafts from South Bay Driveline. The CV was moved to the rear shaft and was in good condition so it was not rebuilt. The other 3 joints were replaced with factory Toyota U-joints. Tubing was replaced with .095. I'm a little worried about the CV as it has very Little misalignment. I read the thread in tech about clearancing it for more misalignment, hopefully I won't need to.



Pretty impressive shipping. I paid Wednesday mid day, and everything arrived Thursday afternoon. I was accidentally shipped a Tacoma front R&P, but they must have caught it cause they sent out the correct R&P and everything showed up at the same time


Shifters installed with new boots. A little silicon and the boots slide right over the levers.
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Old 03-30-2019, 10:25 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Took the Runner out today and so far so good. Now that I have a quiet transmission I can hear all the other noises. I think all the wheel bearings are shot, and I still have a pretty big clunk from the front right, I’m guessing the upper ball joint. Also, the lovely smell of burning oil. I’m think valve stem seals.

Front bumper time
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Oh man, that’s a lot of pieces and a lot of welding
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I believe the main bracket gets welded to the frame. There are no instructions so I’m going to make shit up as I go along.
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I’m guessing upper bumper brackets come off I also cleaned up the frame after this pic and should be welding tomorrow. No going back now.
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Last edited by Diablo169; 04-11-2019 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 03-31-2019, 12:44 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Even with no instructions it's not to hard to figure out. I did run into a couple peices that where a head scratcher.

https://board.marlincrawler.com/inde...topic=101508.0
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Old 03-31-2019, 06:57 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Check the arm opposite of pitman too , I can't think of the proper name These can cause a clunck too . Quite sure they are just a bushing in there . I was going to put bearings in there back in the day, but did SAS instead.
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Old 03-31-2019, 07:12 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Check the arm opposite of pitman too , I can't think of the proper name These can cause a clunck too . Quite sure they are just a bushing in there . I was going to put bearings in there back in the day, but did SAS instead.
Idler arm
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Old 03-31-2019, 10:20 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Check the arm opposite of pitman too , I can't think of the proper name These can cause a clunck too . Quite sure they are just a bushing in there . I was going to put bearings in there back in the day, but did SAS instead.
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Idler arm
Iíll check it out tomorrow. I see that it has one of those crappy single sheer aftermarket idlers. I donít feel anything in the steering wheel, so I figured it wasnít steering related.

I donít think this front end has seen any love in a while, so I was going to replace everything with OEM stuff. I read 4crawlers page about idler arms, so I think Iím leaning towards Total Chaos, but man itís expensive

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Old 03-31-2019, 11:09 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Even with no instructions it's not to hard to figure out. I did run into a couple peices that where a head scratcher.

https://board.marlincrawler.com/inde...topic=101508.0
Awesome, that will help a ton. What did you do with the rectangular piece with two larger holes and one end at a 45* I canít picture where those go.
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Old 03-31-2019, 11:18 PM   #39 (permalink)
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So far I got the front plate welded on. The front of the frame was for sure tweaked. I guess the runner was hit in a parking lot when it was new. Seems to be it was straightened, but not perfect. Led to some smashing with a hammer and some gap filling with the welder.

I squared up the plate the best I could and then burned it it.

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My favorite, overhead welding.

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Fawk yeah, dual steering stabilizers.

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Old 04-01-2019, 09:51 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Awesome, that will help a ton. What did you do with the rectangular piece with two larger holes and one end at a 45* I canít picture where those go.
I could never figure those two pieces out. Ended up just leaving them out.
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Old 04-01-2019, 10:41 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Keep your eye out for a right hand drive hilux steering box. It should bolt in place of the idler arm. Then you just gut the stuff you don't need.
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Old 04-02-2019, 02:37 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I started trying to fit the front Bumper, but I decided it will need some customizing to make me happy. One of them is raising it. As in the MC Thread I redrilled the main bolt holes an 1" lower. I also plan to raise the upper section as well.

As it sits, there is almost 2 3/4" from the grill with the 1" Body Lift.





Redrilled an 1" lower.


I also had a super coupon, so I picked up a $254 Winch. If it claps out I'll rethink my decision. Like always there were 5 different part numbers for the same thing. I hope I picked the right one.


It looks pretty decent I read a few threads about pulling it apart and re greasing and trying to waterproof it.
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:43 PM   #43 (permalink)
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You got that for $254? nice, hope it works, because thatís a steal.
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:50 PM   #44 (permalink)
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You got that for $254? nice, hope it works, because thatís a steal.
Yeah, thanks. I'll probably put a cover on it to keep it dry as I think water is the number one thing that causes these cheap winches to fail. I didn't find a whole lot of negative reviews on them, so we'll see how it holds up.
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Old 04-02-2019, 08:17 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Yeah, thanks. I'll probably put a cover on it to keep it dry as I think water is the number one thing that causes these cheap winches to fail. I didn't find a whole lot of negative reviews on them, so we'll see how it holds up.
I put my warn under water a few times, and neglect it only to hope it works when I need it. Itís never let me down yet.

I have also read that of you grease it and upgrade the solenoids, itís much better off.

Keep up the progress
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Old 04-03-2019, 12:38 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I started trying to fit the front Bumper, but I decided it will need some customizing to make me happy. One of them is raising it. As in the MC Thread I redrilled the main bolt holes an 1" lower. I also plan to raise the upper section as well.

As it sits, there is almost 2 3/4" from the grill with the 1" Body Lift.





Redrilled an 1" lower.


I also had a super coupon, so I picked up a $254 Winch. If it claps out I'll rethink my decision. Like always there were 5 different part numbers for the same thing. I hope I picked the right one.


It looks pretty decent I read a few threads about pulling it apart and re greasing and trying to waterproof it.
My buddy has the 12000lb version and seems to like it with one complaint. The switch in the controller gets hot and self destructs after a few uses replace it with a better rocker or you be holding two wires together on the trail. Build looks awesome
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Old 04-07-2019, 10:11 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Tomorrow Iím going to get to building to front bumper. I swung by HF to pick up some magnets as I needed more than the two I had.

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Iíve been using the HF Coupon Database and man there are some good coupons there.

https://www.hfqpdb.com/harborfreightcoupons

Like any good Pirate build, this one is also reverse sponsored by Coors Light and Harbor Freight.
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Old 04-08-2019, 10:20 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Well, those little magnets were pretty useless, but the big ones worked awesome.

Bumper is going together very quickly, and the pieces are fitting together very well.

Once I'm all finished I'll show some good pics of the welds and gussets.

I got it tac'd on the truck and then pulled it to weld it up.








Used an 8' level to align everything.




Piecing it together is pretty easy when everything lines up. The box of pieces is getting smaller
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Old 04-09-2019, 06:52 AM   #49 (permalink)
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I like the DIY bumper concept and wish he made one for a 3rd gen 4runner. Granted the price IMO is too steep over some fully built bumpers out there
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:36 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I like the DIY bumper concept and wish he made one for a 3rd gen 4runner. Granted the price IMO is too steep over some fully built bumpers out there
Yeah, even this one, which is pretty basic, was pretty expensive. I think shipping alone was $100.

Still, I'm surprised at how well the pieces fit together,
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