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Old 06-18-2019, 10:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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RF1A main shaft snap ring help

Hey guys

I disassembled my RF1A Tcase today and struggled to get the main shaft snap ring out. My snap ring pliers did not open enough and long story short I need to replace that snap ring.
I've been searching for a part number and no luck so far.

this is the ring I am talking about.



as far as I know these snap rings come in different thickness to adjust the axial play to a minimum.

Does anyone know where I can get those?

thanks
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Old 06-19-2019, 04:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Stealer.
Maybe Marlin Crawler
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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PM me your address, I have a couple left over after my rebuild.
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Old 06-20-2019, 08:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zytra View Post
Hey guys

I disassembled my RF1A Tcase today and struggled to get the main shaft snap ring out. My snap ring pliers did not open enough and long story short I need to replace that snap ring.
I've been searching for a part number and no luck so far.

this is the ring I am talking about.



as far as I know these snap rings come in different thickness to adjust the axial play to a minimum.

Does anyone know where I can get those?

thanks
I have a bunch too. if you need one pm me
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Old 06-20-2019, 10:09 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I appreciate that, thanks guys.
I got a measurement on the original snap ring and actually found and ordered surrounding sizes from Toyotapartsdeal. not exactly cheap for what these are, but I should be covered. Thanks again

Last edited by zytra; 06-21-2019 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I actually have another question about on the disassembly of the main shaft.
My ring puller (cheapo 8") is just a little short to for the legs to reach the outer ring of the bearing.

should I grab a longer gear puller? or should I try using a bearing spreader?
How did you guys got yours out?


thanks again
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Use a press, not a puller
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hmm, the clearance between the bearing and the gear isn't much - so it might be difficult to only get the bearing out.

Or should I just have the gear rest on the press frame and push the shaft and get both the gear and the bearing out in the same operation?

thank you for your help, I appreciate it.
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by zytra View Post
Hmm, the clearance between the bearing and the gear isn't much - so it might be difficult to only get the bearing out.

Or should I just have the gear rest on the press frame and push the shaft and get both the gear and the bearing out in the same operation?

thank you for your help, I appreciate it.
Get a clamshell and clearance it with a grinder until it fits.
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Old 06-22-2019, 08:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Get a clamshell and clearance it with a grinder until it fits.
do you mean a bearing separator?
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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do you mean a bearing separator?
Yes
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Old 06-24-2019, 10:12 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Bearing separator + press did the trick!
thanks guys!
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Old 06-29-2019, 10:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm thinking I should have bought a new 6308N bearing while I was it.

I'm working my way back with the reinstall, and had a quick question.
Installed main shaft and counter shaft in housing #2, input gear, high-low selector and housing #1.

since the 4wd parts/selector aren't there yet, with the high-low selector on LOW, the input spline and output shaft are not turning.

I made sure the countershaft spun with no rubbing on the housing after clearance, but I was hoping I could make sure was spinning up the point I'm at right now.

I know you can't engage low gear unless you're into 4wd but since the Tcase is not fully reinstalled I was wondering if that would be the same or not.





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Old 06-30-2019, 09:12 AM   #14 (permalink)
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While you are there, take out the shirt rail interlock pill. Then you can shift it however you want. It no longer requires 4wd to get low range
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Old 06-30-2019, 09:41 AM   #15 (permalink)
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well you've indirectly answered my question
I've removed the interlock pin, so what you're saying is regardless of the 4wd gear being there or not, the output shaft should turn by hand 4.7 slower than the input shaft.

since it's not the case, I probably have some rubbing, or something else is going on...

thanks
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Old 06-30-2019, 10:10 AM   #16 (permalink)
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https://youtu.be/m6XJCB2gG9c
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Old 06-30-2019, 08:08 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I found the issue, more clearance of the housing was needed.
when I tested the counter shaft in the housing it probably wasn't pushed through. As a matter of fact the bearing typically protrudes from the front of the housing by 1/4" and I did my clearance check with the housing flat on the bench so the bearing was not sit all the way.

Oh well, all fixed. My 4.7 gear didn't include the new C clip for the 4wd fork shaft so I'll have to wait before I can close it all up.

Cheers
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