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Old 07-03-2019, 06:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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AW4 swap info

I’m swapping an AW4 trans into my pickup truggy. What I need to know is since I’m running a rad designs shifter and shift rail there should be no reason to run the kick down cable. Am I correct in my assumption?
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Old 07-03-2019, 06:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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That is incorrect.
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Old 07-03-2019, 07:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Why is that incorrect? Is there something the kickdown does that my shift rail won’t? The purpose of the kickdown is to drop a gear when the throttle is mashed correct? Does it do something else as well?

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Old 07-03-2019, 07:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Why is that incorrect? Is there something the lockdown does that my shift rail won’t? The purpose of the lockdown is to drop a gear when the throttle is mashed correct? Does it do something else as well?

Lets confirm which parts you have. How are you going to shift the PNRD?
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Old 07-03-2019, 07:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I have the rad designs rock floor shifter to shift PRND. The rad designs rail controller controls the electronic shift solenoids. I don’t see the point of having a kickdown when I can control it from my seat
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Old 07-03-2019, 08:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Are you going spend your whole life manual shifting an auto?
Unless the controller is taking a TPS input, you need the cable.

Why ask questions just to argue?
Why not just ask RAD?
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Old 07-03-2019, 08:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Wasn’t trying to argue. Was just hoping to get info from someone who has done the swap. I feel like more info about my setup would help. I’m running a 22r draw through turbo setup on propane so there is no tps signal. I have seen the cable attached to the throttle pedal but was just looking at ease of doing this swap.
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Old 07-03-2019, 09:07 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Wasn’t trying to argue. Was just hoping to get info from someone who has done the swap. I feel like more info about my setup would help. I’m running a 22r draw through turbo setup on propane so there is no tps signal. I have seen the cable attached to the throttle pedal but was just looking at ease of doing this swap.
TV cable. I think some guys just pull it tight but then that shortens the life of the tranny.
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Old 07-03-2019, 11:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I connected the TV cable to the throttle linkage on the throttle body on my swap. 22re/A340F/Atlas set up. Do it that way or pull it all the way out and secure it.
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Old 07-03-2019, 12:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Do you know if it uses the kickdown to set line pressure?

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Old 07-08-2019, 06:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Pull it all the way out and lock it down.
Been running mine like this for 8 years.
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Old 07-08-2019, 11:14 AM   #12 (permalink)
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What torque converter are you going with?
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Old 08-07-2019, 06:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Jul 08, 2019 · #12
What torque converter are you going with?

I’m running a stocker out of an 89 pickup
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I wonder who runs else runs that setup?
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overeasy View Post
Pull it all the way out and lock it down.
Been running mine like this for 8 years.
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Originally Posted by Boomtacoma01 View Post
I connected the TV cable to the throttle linkage on the throttle body on my swap. 22re/A340F/Atlas set up. Do it that way or pull it all the way out and secure it.
Yes or yes.
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:17 PM   #16 (permalink)
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TV cable. I think some guys just pull it tight but then that shortens the life of the tranny.
Seriously?

The fucking AW4 is a dime a dozen and cheap as shit. Go ask any tranny builder how many AW4/A340whatevers they work on. The answer is not a lot.

Stop overthinking the little things like tranny life, how many miles are you really going to put on it in a year?
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Seriously?

The fucking AW4 is a dime a dozen and cheap as shit. Go ask any tranny builder how many AW4/A340whatevers they work on. The answer is not a lot.

Stop overthinking the little things like tranny life, how many miles are you really going to put on it in a year?
So they just throw them away instead of rebuilding?

They are cheap and dime a dozen but my ruined trips and time to swap a tranny isn't.
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Old 08-15-2019, 01:18 PM   #18 (permalink)
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So they just throw them away instead of rebuilding?

They are cheap and dime a dozen but my ruined trips and time to swap a tranny isn't.
Where did I state that “they just throw them away”?

I’m trying to get the point across that these are dependable and durable autos. There is plenty of documentation here about how many use it with the cable just tied up and wide open. Rory (RAD Designs) will also suggest you do in your application, he did on mine.

If you are hell bent on using the kick down cable you may just have to figure it out yourself, I don’t know anyone who does in this application.
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Old 08-15-2019, 07:33 PM   #19 (permalink)
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So they just throw them away instead of rebuilding?

They are cheap and dime a dozen but my ruined trips and time to swap a tranny isn't.
buddy killed one in his buggy last year...after pricing out a rebuild he tossed another $100 junkyard in it and away we go
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:51 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Direct response from Rad Designs: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/34290969-post104.html

Tech info I just learned. Using the TV cable adjusted correctly should reduce trans heat. High pressure when not needed creates extra heat as it forces more fluid though the system than needed. So I know there have been varying opinions and feedback on this but this is the first info I have heard relating to the trans system that makes sense.

Edit: I have an AW4 behind an AMC 360. I hooked up the TV cable. It works fine.

Last edited by charlieboyd65; 08-15-2019 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 08-16-2019, 12:28 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mr Stubs View Post
Where did I state that “they just throw them away”?

I’m trying to get the point across that these are dependable and durable autos. There is plenty of documentation here about how many use it with the cable just tied up and wide open. Rory (RAD Designs) will also suggest you do in your application, he did on mine.

If you are hell bent on using the kick down cable you may just have to figure it out yourself, I don’t know anyone who does in this application.
Quoted for truth. One of the most durable transmissions ever built.

I run mine with the TV cable pulled tight, shift kit with the largest opening, and a 2800 stall. Sucker gets hot in some racing conditions, but it keeps going.
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Old 08-16-2019, 07:51 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Beware, pulling the cable tight has been known to cause overheating issues. Transgo kit is a must.
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Old 08-16-2019, 01:39 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Beware, pulling the cable tight has been known to cause overheating issues. Transgo kit is a must.
I followed your advice and installed a Transgo kit. I will say though, if I leave my aftermarket cooler and fan on I can be hard pressed to get tranny temps up to 180*.

Thanks for all your help during my build, I have been pleased with this choice in my crawler and your product has worked flawlessly for me so far.
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Old 08-17-2019, 08:34 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I followed your advice and installed a Transgo kit. I will say though, if I leave my aftermarket cooler and fan on I can be hard pressed to get tranny temps up to 180*.

Thanks for all your help during my build, I have been pleased with this choice in my crawler and your product has worked flawlessly for me so far.
Thanks for the feedback.
I have a customer in WA that had trans heating issues until he connected it to function. It doesn't seem to be every trans that does this I agree. Just something to be aware of.
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Old 08-17-2019, 01:17 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Thanks for the feedback.
I have a customer in WA that had trans heating issues until he connected it to function. It doesn't seem to be every trans that does this I agree. Just something to be aware of.
I'd be interested in seeing if hooking the TV cable back up to the TB, makes a noticeable difference on trans temp.

I run mine pulled tight. I have no temp issues when crawling or trail riding. I just did the Rubicon end-to-end in one shot and it never got over 175 degrees.

When racing in Mexico, I got that thing past 250 degrees. Where it got hot was when loaded up going through silt, sand, and steep rocky hill climbs. I was looking for every opportunity to get to areas where I could get above 4000 rpm for 30 seconds plus to bring the trans temp down. In the 4 miles of whoops, I could bring the trans temp down nearly 30 degrees.

I'm sure the high stall is a huge contributing factor, but its weird how the high trans temps are associated to a specific terrain: high load terrain where high rpms cannot be sustained or going slow is not an option (racing).

One thing I thought about was wiring up the TC lock-up to help combat high temps. I could manually lock up the TC when not under load, to help bring the temps down further. I just don't want to forget about turning the lock-up off. I thought about wiring the lock up to an RPM activated switch but I am nervous about engaging the lock-up at 75% to WOT.
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