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Old 07-17-2019, 08:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Flat towing options

Need to flat tow a vehicle behind the RV for weekend and cross country trips. Looks like options for a 4x4 with a removable top are a Zuk (a bit too small with 2 big dogs)or Heep - but have a perfectly good 85 4Runner in the fleet. Done lots of searching and the general advice is pull the rear driveline - but no way the wife is gonna go for that. Nor is dragging around the car trailer.
1 - Looked at FROR full floater- but not able to figure out a park brake w/o $$ for the drotor kit.
2 - Looked at TrailTough rear disconnect- but how do they do at road speed (65+)?
3 - Marlin has a Tacobox (basically a dual case set up) that advertised a true neutral and tow capability- but when I called the story changed.
So without pulling the driveline or trailer what are the real world experience with any of the above 3?
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Because undoing 4 bolts is hardcore.
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Old 07-17-2019, 11:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Because undoing 4 bolts is hardcore.





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Old 07-18-2019, 04:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Shut the fuck up Greg! Pull the driveline bolts. It literally takes 2 minutes unless you are a window licking fag like Greg.
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Old 07-18-2019, 06:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Because undoing 4 bolts is hardcore.
When itís 10pm and pouring rain, the wife is not gone reconnect the driveline. Age & injuries catch up to all of us - looking at the above 3 options to avoid going to a Heep.
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Old 07-18-2019, 07:09 AM   #6 (permalink)
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to avoid going to a Heep.

Why not a Heep?? If thatís the easiest option why limit yourself??



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Old 07-18-2019, 07:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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When itís 10pm and pouring rain, the wife is not gone reconnect the driveline. Age & injuries catch up to all of us - looking at the above 3 options to avoid going to a Heep.
This comment does not make sense. Regardless of what/how you tow, there is going to be rigging and unrigging to do.
If you seriously would have your wife working on your rig, you need said rig confiscated.
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Old 07-18-2019, 07:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Why not a Heep?? If thatís the easiest option why limit yourself??



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get out of the toyoter section ya jeep feg!!
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Full floater sounds like a good bet for what you want to do. Sounds like you have the funds for it. Is the e-brake super necessary for you? I thought that's what 1st gear was for
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I've talked to a couple people that use the trail tough disconnect to flat tow their rigs. No problems. I have one on my truck although I've never flat towed with it. It's a solid unit.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:03 AM   #11 (permalink)
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When itís 10pm and pouring rain, the wife is not gone reconnect the driveline. Age & injuries catch up to all of us - looking at the above 3 options to avoid going to a Heep.
Wife does all your wrenching?

A call to FROR is somehow more expensive than buying a Jeep?

Spend the grand and call it a day.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:30 AM   #12 (permalink)
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If you carry a bunch of stuff in the back of the 4runner donít go full float. Semi float Toyota housings are not meant to support the weight of the vehicle. There is a reason factory Toyota full float housings are thicker than the semi float housings.
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:02 AM   #13 (permalink)
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we need pic of wife.
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Talking

Flat tow my '85 4runner around all the time. I leave the T/C in 2H and the 5 Speed in neutral. The T/C get oiled because the output shaft is spinning. The front drive is not engaged, if you put the T/C in Neutral, you lock the front & rear drive together, which is what you don't want. When I stop to refuel the motorhome (about 300 miles) I get into the 4runner and put the T/C in neutral and run the transmission thru the gears to keep the trans lubed for another 300 miles! I do not take the drive shaft off. According to Marlin, he said towing is hard on the u-joints, that's why he advises the removal of the drive shaft.
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Flat tow my '85 4runner around all the time. I leave the T/C in 2H and the 5 Speed in neutral. The T/C get oiled because the output shaft is spinning. The front drive is not engaged, if you put the T/C in Neutral, you lock the front & rear drive together, which is what you don't want. When I stop to refuel the motorhome (about 300 miles) I get into the 4runner and put the T/C in neutral and run the transmission thru the gears to keep the trans lubed for another 300 miles! I do not take the drive shaft off. According to Marlin, he said towing is hard on the u-joints, that's why he advises the removal of the drive shaft.
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This. FWIW on my 2WD Tacoma I tow dolly'd it over 500 miles without any issues. Trans in N and that was it.
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:08 AM   #16 (permalink)
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we need pic of wife.
Maybe we don't. Maybe she won't fit under the truck
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:53 AM   #17 (permalink)
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If you carry a bunch of stuff in the back of the 4runner donít go full float. Semi float Toyota housings are not meant to support the weight of the vehicle. There is a reason factory Toyota full float housings are thicker than the semi float housings.
I have no idea how that would work. the placement of moment on the axle may be moved outward a few inches but that wouldn't really add a ridiculous amount of force to the housing. The housing still supports the weight of the truck no matter what the bearing setup is.

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This. FWIW on my 2WD Tacoma I tow dolly'd it over 500 miles without any issues. Trans in N and that was it.
It's the tcase that risks getting burnt up, not the trans, so you're safe, but he's a different story.
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:04 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I have no idea how that would work. the placement of moment on the axle may be moved outward a few inches but that wouldn't really add a ridiculous amount of force to the housing. The housing still supports the weight of the truck no matter what the bearing setup is.
The semi float housing supports some of the weight as do the cup bearings. Asking the paper thin semi float housing to support 100% of the weight is asking for trouble.
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:38 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I don't see the difference either, 100% of the semi-float axle weight is supported by the flange on the end of the axle housing. The 3rd member will only carry a downward load transferred through the wheel bearing acting as a cantilever pivot. A full-float loads the axle in basically the same spot, the inner end of the spindle. FF housings are thicker because they are designed as 3/4 or 1 Ton axles instead of 1/2 Ton.

What are you calling "cup" bearings ( I guess the axle bearing in the backing plate ) ?

Last edited by stephen wilson; 07-19-2019 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 07-19-2019, 01:43 PM   #20 (permalink)
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If he has a problem with any of it just get a simple dolly....but shoot my dads 85 and flat tows his 1980 toyota to Florida every year just putting it in neutral..over 20 years, no transmission issues or case issues...only issue to date is one rear shoe that still isn't fixed...
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:06 AM   #21 (permalink)
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If ebrake is the hold up with the FROR kit why not put a line locking valve switch in the brake line for an ebrake. Done it on my buggies. Basically you simply pump the brake, while holding the brake pedal down you turn the valve, this locks the pressure on the caliper and works great. A $17 valve would solve that problem.
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:36 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Locking hubs on rear axle.

No crawling under, no unbolting of driveline.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/loc...wheels.277846/
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Last edited by ParadiseAutoElectric; 07-22-2019 at 06:51 AM.
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