Tetanus - 96 Solid axle Hilux with 3UZ V8 is Aus - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 09-15-2019, 07:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Tetanus - 96 Solid axle Hilux with 3UZ V8 is Aus

Hello ladies and gents
I've been lurking on these forums for years exploiting the incredible wealth of knowledge and experience on offer and figure it only fair I contribute if even in a small way.

I present today my labour of love for the past 4+ years. It's a 1996 dual cab Toyota Hilux Ln106. This is a solid axle front and rear model that started life with a 2.8L diesel engine. I bought it in 2013 with 330 000 km on the clock. At 355 000 kms on a 40 degree day the diesel decided it had had enough. I happen upon a small sum of money at the time and my lack of self control and habit of taking things way too far won out and I purchased half a car from Japan.

What arrived was the front half of a 2002 Japanese Toyota Celsior, aka Lexus LS430. These cars had a 4.3L V8 petrol engine which is just a bored out and updated version of the famous 1UZ. At the time I had no idea what I was doing, the most experience I had prior was adding manual boost controllers and stereos. With help from numerous write ups, youtube and experimenting I pushed on. The Ute came with everything being stock except for 3" lift springs, matching shocks ands 31" tyres. First thing I did was add Detroit lockers front and rear.

For now Ill post up so pictures and go into more detail after

Maiden Voyage


Y'all may notice the tray is off a later model, originally it had a hydraulic tilt according to the mod plate
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Old 09-16-2019, 12:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The swap

Everything came out easy enough although every bolt had been rounded or seized. The first hurdle was the wiring. The existing wiring had melted together at some point and the donor engine had about 1000 km of unnecessary crap. With help from a guru I tidied up and married the two harnesses but the ecu had a built in immobiliser which didn't want to play even though I had the original key. Sent the ecu to another guru in Russia and it came back and fired up first go.

The Hilux came with a G52 gearbox which I removed and sold in favour for an R150f from a Toyota surf. I used a trail gear adapter to fit the existing R1FA transfer case to it to keep the strong gear driven transfer as opposed to the flogged out chain one it came with. I scored a bellhousing, flywheel and clutch kit from a local supplier and fitted the drive line to the engine.

I managed to fit the engine so that the transfer case Mount and cross member line up in the original position. After a few test drives I think that this might be a few mm out as there seems to be tension between the engine mounts and transfer mounts and the gearbox keeps leaking ever so slightly from the bearing housing.

I redid the whole fuel system in 3/8" stainless pipe with intank pump and external fpr feeding the existing deadhead system. Originally had a walbro 355 but it burned out after a few starts so I swapped to a raceworks branded pump which is still going strong touch wood.

Used a surf intake air box which is a common mod here as it frees up room for another battery (or lots of activities). Then 3" pipe into the intake manifold. Bought a cheap Chinese eBay radiator and fan and made my own shroud. So far the old girl hasn't gone over 100 degrees but I realised to the cap had blown out so it was actually pressurizing so the next run in it will be interesting. Also I haven't driven it yet with the ac condensor on which will add more stress to the system.

The exhaust is 2" existing log headers into cat then merged into 2 3/4" with a cherry bomb vortex. It's reasonably quiet at idle and low revs and really comes on nice.

Engines initial fitting


Original Diesel Engine


Initial Test Run
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Old 09-29-2019, 02:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Update on Brakes, Steering and cooling.

The brakes received a work over too, master cylinder is 1'' bore and Im using a dual diaphram booster which all in all feels normal. I had to rebuild the front calipers and rear drums. Add slotted rotors up front and the thing actually locks up now. Ill soon swap the rear drums in favour for disc brakes as well as the useless handbrake is giving me the shits. I replaced the whole assembly with one from a surf so the mechanism is inside the cab and allowed the motor to clear it.

Steering gave me the shits. I grinded the fuck out of the original power steering gearbox to allow room as it clashed with the power steering pump on the motor. Had to grind alot of the mount but didnt think it would matter much. The box now sits about 10-15mm lower and turns past the pitman arm stops which allows the box to leak like shit every time it over extends. To add to the dramas, I tapped the steering pump for a new fitting and managed to fuck the internal valve and the whole thing stopped providing pressure. Local bloke had a gm box I forget what model, we had to use a psc pulley and make a dodgy bracket from scrap but so far it all holds up and runs the steering.

It is still slightly dribbling from the box every time I go a bit too far and it stinks of steering fluid most times I drive. Im going to very soon opt for high steer kit from trail gear as Im sick of the current setup and the spongy draglink which is at a horrible angle due to the suspension.

Lastly went up the beach on the weekend. Everything went swimmingly but she got really hot. Past 120 degrees C on the gauge as thats the max it goes however everything seems fine. Just before we went I finished the ac and the added load from the condensor seems to have pushed the system too far.

Im starting a new job tomorrow but I intend to start two more topics unless you guys want me to keep them here. First one will be talking about trying to use thermodynamics and theory to solve the overheating issues as Im a mechanical engineer and this is primarily what I do. Will look at different pressures and areas for vents, fans, radiators and different heat exchangers.

Secondly Ill be looking at the in cab noise as I cant hear the engine at 100kph even though its a V8 doing 2800rpm. Ill try different techniques and record the noise level and also analyse the vibrations to determine the causes.

Lastly a pic of just before we went up the beach
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Old 09-29-2019, 01:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sweet engine, swags on the roof headed for the beach!
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Old 09-30-2019, 06:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Please send me a 4 door cab.
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Old 09-30-2019, 08:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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that thing is freaking rad!
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Old 09-30-2019, 09:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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engine looks so sexy in that bay.

happen to have the total weight of the dressed 3uz before you slipped it in?
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Old 09-30-2019, 11:20 AM   #8 (permalink)
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engine looks so sexy in that bay.

happen to have the total weight of the dressed 3uz before you slipped it in?
Complete 3UZ should weigh 420 pounds.
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Old 09-30-2019, 11:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Complete 3UZ should weigh 420 pounds.
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Old 09-30-2019, 11:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice work!
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Old 10-03-2019, 03:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Very nice, whereabouts in oz are you from? I'm guessing not Victoria by the beach shots.

For in cab noise (and heat) I did a double layer of chinamat insulation on the floor and doors which made a huge difference.

Radiator I just fitted a HJ75 unit to my LN65 as it is taller than the correct part but same width and gives about 10% more core area. Same basic layout in the 70 series range comes with several inlet/outlet hose configurations which may or may not help you. Worth a look anyway. I want to put AC on mine next but worried I'll run into the same problem which is why I went the bigger rad.

For rear disc brakes im running prado calipers and rotors with custom brackets and backing plates. Works great! Check out my build thread for details.
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Old 10-09-2019, 03:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Very nice, whereabouts in oz are you from? I'm guessing not Victoria by the beach shots.

For in cab noise (and heat) I did a double layer of chinamat insulation on the floor and doors which made a huge difference.

Radiator I just fitted a HJ75 unit to my LN65 as it is taller than the correct part but same width and gives about 10% more core area. Same basic layout in the 70 series range comes with several inlet/outlet hose configurations which may or may not help you. Worth a look anyway. I want to put AC on mine next but worried I'll run into the same problem which is why I went the bigger rad.

For rear disc brakes im running prado calipers and rotors with custom brackets and backing plates. Works great! Check out my build thread for details.
Just had a quick look at your thread and far out its orange lol but hell youve out done me in terms of the quality of work. Those engine mounts are pretty trick too. Total rebuild of the head and gearbox too would be real nice but cash is a bit tight right now. Ive only recently discovered the dyna 5th gear mod on the r150f would you recommend it? Mileage at the moment is atrocious and Im hoping if I get the revs right done on the highway it would improve a bit. What do you think the total was for the gearbox rebuild parts? Might do it over as I bought it with an unknown past and the shifter seats were totally missing.

Im in Brisbane on the Northside. I didnt cover the insulation before but I used a knock off dynomatt on the entire interior, then double sided foil sheet and finally resomatt which is rubber stuff with foam either side and new vynel on top. I didnt do the doors as they are flogged out and I scored some surf doors with power windows and shit and nice door cards mine have been hacked to pieces over the years. Are you a machinist or fabricator by trade? you seem to have some very nice toys in your garage.
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Old 10-18-2019, 05:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks mate, it's been a lot of work but finally getting close to where i want it to be.

I like the 5th gear mod, although it's probably a bit tall for my high revving motor. It sits on 2200rpm at 100kmh with 4.56's and 31's. It's great on the flats but for long steep hills i have to downshift to get it up on cam. It would be perfect with a V8 though.
What it does give you is lots of headroom for short diff gears while still having a good cruise rpm. I think i will go for 4.88's or even 5.29's which should help it off road but the tall 5th will still keep the highway revs reasonable.

I spent 2k on parts for the box all up. New genuine bearings and syncros, a few marlin goodies, the 5th gear mod and longer input shaft. But at least i know it's good now and can feel confident beating on it.

I just run a small machine shop from home making aftermarket parts and whatever other custom stuff. Its a good excuse to have lots of fun toys

Shout out if you need any stuff machined up and ill see what i can do.
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