94 P/U extremely hard to shift from a stop!!!! HELP!!!! - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 02-02-2006, 07:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
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94 P/U extremely hard to shift from a stop!!!! HELP!!!!

wondering what you guys think about this. i'm buying a 94 pickup, and the guy told me that every now and then, it gets hard to shift from a dead stop. when i went to test drive it, it did it the whole time i drove it (20 mins). after he left he called me and said it stopped doing it and has been driving perfect for 4 days.

when i drove it, i would try to find any gear from a stop and have to rev the motor and cram it into gear. after the truck got rolling again it shifted like butter in all gears. what do you guys think it could be? i was thinking master/slave going out, or possibly the syncros. he said he put a new exedy clutch in last summer, so maybe he messed up the install. point me in the right direction please. any help is appreciated. thanks. -Josh
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Old 02-02-2006, 07:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Shift

1 st gear synchro might be unhappy or the clutch may be out of adjustment
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Old 02-02-2006, 07:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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it's hard to shift into any gear from a stop, not just first. unless that one syncro can mess up the others.???
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Old 02-02-2006, 07:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It does sound like the master going out...to check the slave cyl. pull back the rubber boot and see if its wet with brake fluid. also check the shifter lever cup and bushing-located on top, just inside the tranny housing.
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Old 02-02-2006, 08:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i had the guy check it out and he said there's nothing leaking from the master or slave cylinder. he seems like a pretty knowledgeable, honest guy, so i believe him.
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Old 02-02-2006, 08:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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My truck was doing the same thing. It wasn,t the syncros, one of the retainer clips came off and the gears where sliding apart. which made it hard for the syncros to mesh up. So if the clip came off the first gear gear that would make it hard to go into first, but as you went into a higher gear that wasn,t effected it would shift fine.
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Old 02-02-2006, 09:19 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Also check your motor mounts and the transfer case mount.
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Old 02-02-2006, 11:32 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I say MC and slave cyl.
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Old 02-02-2006, 11:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Time for a clutch job.
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Old 02-02-2006, 12:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Have you ever replaced your master or slave? The seals inside may be worn and there is blow by of the piston. So when your at a stop, more likely if you keep the pedal down as you wait, the clutch slowly engages. If you are holding the pedal down as you wait, then shift, do you hear a grind? If you don't constantly hold it, and it is hard to shift, it's probably the syncros. I have this problem in my burban with a 5 speed. I can feel the system loosing pressure the longer I hold it. Also what you could do is at a stop hold the clutch down with the tranny in gear. If you see the motor rpm drop and maybe stall you have your problem. Hope this helps and good luck.
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Old 02-02-2006, 01:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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my burban
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Old 02-02-2006, 02:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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when i finally was able to get it into gear from a stop, it didn't make a grinding noise. the pedal doesn't lose feel at all, doesn't matter if i hold it in or pump it. the only way i could get it into gear was to rev the engine up a bit and cram it into gear. anyone know where to get cheap toyota parts online?
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Old 02-02-2006, 02:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
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if its not any of the above, i had a similar problem turned out to be thrust washers puked out, and the crank was moving forward under full clutch, however it shifts just fine when rolling....
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Old 02-02-2006, 02:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I had the exact same problem on my '94 4Runner. The pilot bearing (a cheapo chinese piece of crap included in a clutch kit from Downey) had seized in less than 5000 miles of mostly street driving. It would sort of clunk at a stoplight and then would refuse to shift. The clutch seemed to be working fine, great even, while driving at speed. If revving the motor in neutral with the clutch depressed allows you to slip it into gear then my money would be on the pilot bearing.
I replaced the clutch with a Centerforce DF and replaced the TO and pilot bearing with new FACTORY Toyota parts. I learned my lesson the hard way. Downey made an extra buck and it cost me a helluvalot more than that to make it right.
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Old 02-02-2006, 03:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You should be able to call Lou Fusz Toyota here in St. Louis, Missouri and set up a wholesale account--I have one there. They used to advertise this in the back of auto mags but don't know what they are doing these days. I was at another Toyota dealer (Jay Wolff Toyota) today and told tham I had a wholesale account at another dealer so they hooked my up with one on the spot.

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Old 02-02-2006, 03:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
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clutch master or slave cylinder. if a synchro has gone out or collapsed on the gear, it would only be hard to down shift into that gear, you would have to be stopped to put it in first. look at the carpet above the clutch pedal willing to bet it is soaked with brake fluid.
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Old 02-02-2006, 04:35 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Pilot bearing.
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Old 02-02-2006, 05:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Pink
My truck was doing the same thing. It wasn,t the syncros, one of the retainer clips came off and the gears where sliding apart. which made it hard for the syncros to mesh up. So if the clip came off the first gear gear that would make it hard to go into first, but as you went into a higher gear that wasn,t effected it would shift fine.

My 85 is currently doing this exact same thing. When it doesnt go into first when i come to a stop I put it into reverse and back up about 2 or 3 feet then it shifts right in everytime
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Old 02-02-2006, 10:29 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I have to be at a stop to put it in first and to down shift into 3rd i have to shift into 2nd, then back up to 3rd. I don't have to have clutched ingaged into 2nd, just into the position. collapsed synchro on frist, and bearings may need some replacement, mine is w56.
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Old 02-02-2006, 10:55 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Many friends of mine and I as well have had a similar problem. But for all of us it was after installing a centerforce clutch. The problem we had was that the mounts for the clutch pedal would tear off of the firewall where they were spot welded. The metal for the bracket is very thin and it may have work hardened and broke causing the top of the pedal to lift away from the firewall and causing insufficient stroke in the clutch master. All of our problems were in 89 -95 toyota's though. When your'e moving they shift like butter just like any rig with a manual, like my Peterbilt , you can shift without the clutch and without grinding easily.
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:03 AM   #21 (permalink)
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it going be in the clutch, beside if you moving you dont need to be in first at all. first is only used for complete stop.
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:23 PM   #22 (permalink)
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what clutch would yall recommend? running 35's with 5.29's, mostly street use, some offroad. i was thinking of going with an upgraded napa clutch kit for like $200, but is there anything better for the money as far as reliability and durability? where should i go through? drove the truck all day today and it did it every single time i came to a stop. checked the master cylinder and it was full. slave cylinder not leaking. i think the guy i bought it from fucked up the clutch install.
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:53 PM   #23 (permalink)
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look into the Marlin kit, only $199. I'd take that over a napa clutch any day.
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Old 02-03-2006, 03:10 PM   #24 (permalink)
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look into the Marlin kit, only $199. I'd take that over a napa clutch any day.
I had the HD Marlin clutch and it worked well but I did not think it was well made compared to a Centerforce.
The Centerforce Dual Friction is my favorite. May as well get a heavier flywheel in there while you have it apart! Yes, Centerforce too!
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Old 02-03-2006, 03:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by yotabeater
what clutch would yall recommend? running 35's with 5.29's, mostly street use, some offroad. i was thinking of going with an upgraded napa clutch kit for like $200, but is there anything better for the money as far as reliability and durability? where should i go through? drove the truck all day today and it did it every single time i came to a stop. checked the master cylinder and it was full. slave cylinder not leaking. i think the guy i bought it from fucked up the clutch install.
Smoked pilot bearing. It is the pilot bearing. The pilot bearing is seized. Dude, check the pilot bearing! I'd bet money its the pilot bearing! Any takers?
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