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Old 09-21-2006, 10:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
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? properly remove pitman arm, help ?

Trying to swap out hi steer Pitman Arm for a 1" drop arm
arm was put on about 2 yrs ago.

I sprayed penetrating fluid on the shaft- top and bottom
Hitting it with a hammer (best I can with it still in truck)
Big 2 foot breaker bar to pry from frame to arm
I put a puller on it, not budging
I used a torch, heated up on the outer part of the arm

I searched in a few threads

How do you get these Freakin Things off !!! ?

thanks
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I left my pitman arm puller on overnight with lots of penetrating fluid then in the morning i just tapped it with a hammer.
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I tighten the puller till it looks like it's about to break, and then beat on the arm where it splines onto the box. pops off everytime. never had a stubborn one.
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOODLES
I tighten the puller till it looks like it's about to break, and then beat on the arm where it splines onto the box. pops off everytime. never had a stubborn one.
thanks Guys,
YEp I have done both of these

at first I put the puller on But where I have to put on wrench is where the Leaf springs are , the puller Bolt is at a Slight angle So I turned the Wheels left and now the Puller is Tight on both pull arm sides. ( puller bolt still slightly at an angle)

-Sitting since last night
Penetrating Fluid
Puller on tight, --I think it's going to Grenade on me each time I turn it !
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Ditto. A mixture of both of those should work. An a cheap HF puller won't cut it.

Put anti-seize on the splines when you reassemble it and it will be MUCH easier to remove next time.
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Sorry, I don't have pics handy. I tried the above when I was installing my flat pitman. But, I didn't have a decent gear puller and I didn't care too much if I had the pitman as a spare. I opted to cut it. I cut the side nearly all the way to the splines with an angle grinder (cutting blade) and finished splitting it with a chisel. 15 minutes later I was tighting the nut for the replacement flat pitman.

Post up what works for you. I am swapping steering boxes this weekend and I am going to try and salvage the other pitman this time.

x2 on anti-seize.
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Old 09-21-2006, 12:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Use a good pitman arm puller. Soak it with penetrant. Tighten the puller down and when you get it good and tight...hit the end of the pin that you have been tightening on the puller a few times w/ a BFH. Turn it as much as you can again...sometime maybe only a 1/4 turn or less...repeat. Took about 5 minutes of doing this and mine dropped off on a hit w/ the BFH.

Anti-seize is a definite good idea for the re-install.

Good luck and patience.

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Old 09-21-2006, 12:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Go to Autozone and get the free loaner Pitman arm puller, works sweet, so sweet in fact, I paid for it and kept it!
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Old 09-21-2006, 12:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I'm not cutting it of , but thanks

ABSOLUTELY ANTI Freeze !

I use it Religiously now

I had a friend pull the old one off as I did not have a puller handy and he must have slammed the new one on

Allways do the work yourself !!


I will write back what I did
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Old 09-21-2006, 01:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I've found that the best way to remove anything with a taper (pitman arms, ball joints, etc) is to hit two opposing sides with equal weight hammers. This method has never failed me.

grab two medium sized hammers of equal weights. One hammer in each hand, smack both sides of the splined ring portion of the pitman arm at the same time. It's important that both hammers hit at the same time with a good solid opposing hit. The arm will usually fall right off, or be much easier to pull off.

Note: leave the nut hanging on by about half it's threads so you don't destroy the shaft if you miss the arm.
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Old 09-21-2006, 01:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWToyota
I've found that the best way to remove anything with a taper (pitman arms, ball joints, etc) is to hit two opposing sides with equal weight hammers. This method has never failed me.

grab two medium sized hammers of equal weights. One hammer in each hand, smack both sides of the splined ring portion of the pitman arm at the same time. It's important that both hammers hit at the same time with a good solid opposing hit. The arm will usually fall right off, or be much easier to pull off.

Note: leave the nut hanging on by about half it's threads so you don't destroy the shaft if you miss the arm.
CWT

this sounds great and all but the arm is the width or smaller than the Gear box Body, How to hit the small side of the arm
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Old 09-21-2006, 02:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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pulling anything with a taper

what u do is you get the correct puller for the job and u get a big air impact with an impact socket. if you get good pullers they can take the abuse. the slam of the impact loosens the depris that is in there and they come right off, even without any lube.
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Old 09-21-2006, 03:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I used a lot of penetrating fluid, an Autozone pitman arm puller, breaker bar and a BFH.
Spray fluid liberally and often. Lube the threads on the puller. Whack the breaker bar with BFH. Lather, rinse and repeat. Use eye protection when combining breaker bar with BFH(ask me how I know)
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Old 09-21-2006, 03:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeMan006
what u do is you get the correct puller for the job and u get a big air impact with an impact socket. if you get good pullers they can take the abuse. the slam of the impact loosens the depris that is in there and they come right off, even without any lube.
x2 except i rented the ghettozone one and asked them if i break it would i have to pay for it, and they said no, so out came the air impact driver
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Old 09-21-2006, 03:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I grenaded the autozone puller with the impact and ended up having to cut it off, tried everything I could think of first though. Used anti sieze for the new one and now it comes off everytime.
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Old 09-21-2006, 04:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWToyota
I've found that the best way to remove anything with a taper (pitman arms, ball joints, etc) is to hit two opposing sides with equal weight hammers.
This is pretty much what I do on the trail, or if my puller doesn't work easily in the shop. Only difference is that I huge a LARGE sledgehammer held firm against the back, and the biggest hammer I can easily swing to smack across from it. The resulting squeeze almost always works, but definitely anti-seize that sucker when you reassemble.

I feel much better impact-loading radially in line with the bearings than smacking the shaft along its length, perpendicular to the bearings.

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Old 09-21-2006, 05:57 PM   #17 (permalink)
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There is one method that works almost as well as the opposing hammers trick, when you don't have room for two hammers.

Try this. It's gotten 3 problem pitman's off for me...

1) Remove puller. Reinstall so that bolt is as straight as possible.
2) Tighten as tight as you are comfortable with.
3) Apply hammer. DO NOT hit the pitman arm. Hitting the pitman arm just cocks it to the side and puts it in a bind. Hit the puller bolt square on the top of the head, like you're trying to drive the bolt up through the center of the output shaft on the box. Hit it hard about a dozen times.
4) Re-torque puller. It should come off with a half dozen or less repetitions of #2 and #3.

If you have to hit the pitman arm, do like someone suggested and hit it where the arm is splined onto the box. At all costs, avoid hitting the end of the arm where the steering linkage mounts up. It doesn't help.

Last edited by TNToy; 09-21-2006 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 09-21-2006, 06:35 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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I just had mione off and all I needed was a Autozone Puller(they make them specifically for pitman arms) and my 1/2 socket wrench for the puller bolt, came right off no problem
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Old 09-21-2006, 09:35 PM   #19 (permalink)
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i got a 13 doller pittman arm puller from a local auto store then cranked on it as hard as i could with a 1/2 in drive. It wouldnt budge so i took a piece of tube i had lying around(6-7 ft) and it popped right off. i thought it broke something when it let loose.
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Old 09-21-2006, 10:23 PM   #20 (permalink)
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CWT

this sounds great and all but the arm is the width or smaller than the Gear box Body, How to hit the small side of the arm
I'm talking about hitting the pitman arm radially, it would look like this if you were looking straight up at the shaft from below:

--> O <--


arrows indicate hammer blows.
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:37 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveh
Go to Autozone and get the free loaner Pitman arm puller, works sweet, so sweet in fact, I paid for it and kept it!

i agree, i work as les schwab, we were having problems getting a superduty arm off for a lift with our $100 plus puller when i told them to go across the street to autozone and get their puller, everyone was skeptical when they pulled the tiny little puller out of the box, but it works awesome. we went back and bought it from them and use it in the shop all the time.

i reccomend using a decent 1/2" drive gun. some of them are kinda pussy, get a good one that puts out 250 fl.lbs at least. and it shoudl just pop off even without a hammer.

Callen
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:46 PM   #22 (permalink)
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penetrating lube over night, and 3 guys hitting it with hammers. hard on the bottom and lightly on the sides, tried vato zone puller, the one they had was too small, so i borrowed a matco puller from one of the techs at work.

i also used the impact tighten then hammer method.

and i aint got no bitch impact, 650ftlbs tight, 1000 ftlbs loose.
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:02 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNToy
There is one method that works almost as well as the opposing hammers trick, when you don't have room for two hammers.

Try this. It's gotten 3 problem pitman's off for me...

1) Remove puller. Reinstall so that bolt is as straight as possible.
2) Tighten as tight as you are comfortable with.
3) Apply hammer. DO NOT hit the pitman arm. Hitting the pitman arm just cocks it to the side and puts it in a bind. Hit the puller bolt square on the top of the head, like you're trying to drive the bolt up through the center of the output shaft on the box. Hit it hard about a dozen times.
4) Re-torque puller. It should come off with a half dozen or less repetitions of #2 and #3.

If you have to hit the pitman arm, do like someone suggested and hit it where the arm is splined onto the box. At all costs, avoid hitting the end of the arm where the steering linkage mounts up. It doesn't help.







This works well
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:34 AM   #24 (permalink)
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good thread i broke my puller 2 days ago, now i know a few other things to try
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:38 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I never had luck with regular pullers.. You gotta have a Pitman arm puller and Penetrating fluid. Everything mentioned above definitely helps, but having the correct tool is the FIRST step!
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