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Old 06-16-2002, 09:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cool D60 under a Toy

What do I have to do to put a D60 under a Toyota?
Brakes? Can I run the stock master and boost?
Steering? Can I use a stock box and arm?
Anything else?
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Old 06-16-2002, 10:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Well, assuming you are starting with a full width Dana 60( mine was a Dodge). Here is what I "kinda did". I had the long side cut down 3.5" and that spring perch moved the same. Now this allows for leaf springs to bolt up from stock Toy spring width center to center at least on my 4runner( 29"). Got long side inner cut/resplined. I did not want to outboard hangers 1.5" each side and have to totally redo a shackle mount under the frame. Now mine has dually hubs, so I opted to go with hummer beadlocks vs spending the $$ on single wheel hubs or time converting mine. As far as brakes go, Use the stock Toy booster, but then adapt a 1984 Ford F350 master to it. To do this you get a small square of 1/4" thick plate. Drill it to accept the 4 Toy studs on the booster, and also accept the 2 from the F350 master. You will have to make a small rod close to 1" to make up the distance in the cylinder to have enough length to push the "piston" in on top of the stock Toy rod. Very simple. Now I completely ran new brakelines front and rear since all my drivetrain is now SAE. In your case, get some adapters to go from Metric to SAE and plug your lines into the F350 master. Same goes at the axle end, get some custom lines made that have 10mm Toy Female on one end, and I believe 3/16 male on the other to go to the D60 calipers. As far as steering, An IFS Toy box will work fine assuming you are going to run 38"tires or less, or you better go hydro assist. Are u planning on moving the axle forward beyond 2" of stock? You will need a Drag link that has Toyota TRE to go to the pitman, and the other built for the GM rod end. I suggest putting a beefier TRE at the pitman! I am keeping the Tie rod in the stock location, below the springs for simplicity, and to mount my ram to. High X-over would not be hard either. I did have to get a custom pass side steering arm, but thats no biggie. Check out www.shakerbuilt.com , or www.rockstomper.com for steering arms, Tie rods, Drag links ect.. I am getting most my stuff from Tim aka "Shaker". Then you will need to adapt the driveshaft to fit whatever size yoke u run on the D60, and obviosly match gears with the rear. Got any Q's just ask. Good luck!!
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Old 06-17-2002, 07:34 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 06-17-2002, 09:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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front or rear? You can make a simple adapter plate to run any master cylinder you want, or what I did was just bolt on the stuff from a toy car - it was 15/16ths, works fine..

If front go ahead and put a hydroboost on there
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Old 06-17-2002, 11:22 AM   #5 (permalink)
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well if i had a 60 layin around,
I would let you know.
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Old 06-18-2002, 10:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ricktard
Well, assuming you are starting with a full width Dana 60( mine was a Dodge). Here is what I "kinda did". I had the long side cut down 3.5" and that spring perch moved the same. Now this allows for leaf springs to bolt up from stock Toy spring width center to center at least on my 4runner( 29"). Got long side inner cut/resplined. I did not want to outboard hangers 1.5" each side and have to totally redo a shackle mount under the frame. Now mine has dually hubs, so I opted to go with hummer beadlocks vs spending the $$ on single wheel hubs or time converting mine. As far as brakes go, Use the stock Toy booster, but then adapt a 1984 Ford F350 master to it. To do this you get a small square of 1/4" thick plate. Drill it to accept the 4 Toy studs on the booster, and also accept the 2 from the F350 master. You will have to make a small rod close to 1" to make up the distance in the cylinder to have enough length to push the "piston" in on top of the stock Toy rod. Very simple. Now I completely ran new brakelines front and rear since all my drivetrain is now SAE. In your case, get some adapters to go from Metric to SAE and plug your lines into the F350 master. Same goes at the axle end, get some custom lines made that have 10mm Toy Female on one end, and I believe 3/16 male on the other to go to the D60 calipers. As far as steering, An IFS Toy box will work fine assuming you are going to run 38"tires or less, or you better go hydro assist. Are u planning on moving the axle forward beyond 2" of stock? You will need a Drag link that has Toyota TRE to go to the pitman, and the other built for the GM rod end. I suggest putting a beefier TRE at the pitman! I am keeping the Tie rod in the stock location, below the springs for simplicity, and to mount my ram to. High X-over would not be hard either. I did have to get a custom pass side steering arm, but thats no biggie. Check out www.shakerbuilt.com , or www.rockstomper.com for steering arms, Tie rods, Drag links ect.. I am getting most my stuff from Tim aka "Shaker". Then you will need to adapt the driveshaft to fit whatever size yoke u run on the D60, and obviosly match gears with the rear. Got any Q's just ask. Good luck!!
Geee wonder where got this info......LOL....
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Old 06-18-2002, 06:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ricktard
Well, assuming you are starting with a full width Dana 60( mine was a Dodge). Here is what I "kinda did". I had the long side cut down 3.5" and that spring perch moved the same. Now this allows for leaf springs to bolt up from stock Toy spring width center to center at least on my 4runner( 29"). Got long side inner cut/resplined. I did not want to outboard hangers 1.5" each side and have to totally redo a shackle mount under the frame. Now mine has dually hubs, so I opted to go with hummer beadlocks vs spending the $$ on single wheel hubs or time converting mine. As far as brakes go, Use the stock Toy booster, but then adapt a 1984 Ford F350 master to it. To do this you get a small square of 1/4" thick plate. Drill it to accept the 4 Toy studs on the booster, and also accept the 2 from the F350 master. You will have to make a small rod close to 1" to make up the distance in the cylinder to have enough length to push the "piston" in on top of the stock Toy rod. Very simple. Now I completely ran new brakelines front and rear since all my drivetrain is now SAE. In your case, get some adapters to go from Metric to SAE and plug your lines into the F350 master. Same goes at the axle end, get some custom lines made that have 10mm Toy Female on one end, and I believe 3/16 male on the other to go to the D60 calipers. As far as steering, An IFS Toy box will work fine assuming you are going to run 38"tires or less, or you better go hydro assist. Are u planning on moving the axle forward beyond 2" of stock? You will need a Drag link that has Toyota TRE to go to the pitman, and the other built for the GM rod end. I suggest putting a beefier TRE at the pitman! I am keeping the Tie rod in the stock location, below the springs for simplicity, and to mount my ram to. High X-over would not be hard either. I did have to get a custom pass side steering arm, but thats no biggie. Check out www.shakerbuilt.com , or www.rockstomper.com for steering arms, Tie rods, Drag links ect.. I am getting most my stuff from Tim aka "Shaker". Then you will need to adapt the driveshaft to fit whatever size yoke u run on the D60, and obviosly match gears with the rear. Got any Q's just ask. Good luck!!
Yea, i'm getting a Dodge too I think i'll try to use my stock brakes setup first and see how it works
Thanks for the info...
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Old 07-10-2002, 11:07 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Vova, are you cutting yours down, or are you going full width? And what did you use for the rear axle??
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Old 07-10-2002, 11:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
Vova, are you cutting yours down, or are you going full width? And what did you use for the rear axle??
Yea, i'm cutting my Chevy down 3" and running a 14-bolt in the back...
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Old 07-10-2002, 12:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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5.13's and AP springs?? And what inners are you going to use on the drivers side?
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Old 07-10-2002, 12:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
5.13's and AP springs?? And what inners are you going to use on the drivers side?
yes-
I'm getting the inners cut down.
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Old 07-10-2002, 06:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Brake master from a '76 Chevy 3/4T 4x4 with the big rear brakes, works very well, and is extremely easy (IMHO) to adapt onto the Toy booster.

Cut a piece of 1/2" steel plate to big enough to cover the Toy bolt pattern.
Core a hole big enough for the master pilot (1.25"?) in the middle of it.
Drill the Toy bolt pattern into it.
Drill the Chevy pattern (2 bolt) into it.
Countersink the Chevy pattern from the backside.
Bolt the Chevy master onto the plate with countersunk flathead bolts.
Bolt the plate to the Toy booster with the original nuts.
If yours is like mine, the pushrod doesn't even need to be adjusted.
Figure out the plumbing, and go play.

I'm using this setup with big Chevy front brakes, midsize Chevy car front calipers in the back, and 44's.

Steering, is cake. Just call--we do this all the time. You can use the Toy box and pitman, but you'll need the ratio a little shortened from standard Chevy on the right side crossover arm, because the Toy box doesn't have as much throw as the Dana axle needs to go lock to lock. We've got double D60 arms too, if you want to go farther than a couple inches forward of stock, so that you can put the tierod behind the axle instead of up front.
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Old 07-10-2002, 06:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hey Ricktard - are you saying there is enough room on the long side to have the stock tapered style long side Dodge inner shaft shortened 3" or so, resplined, and still have a seal surface where it needs to be?
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Old 07-11-2002, 08:33 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Hey Ricktard - are you saying there is enough room on the long side to have the stock tapered style long side Dodge inner shaft shortened 3" or so, resplined, and still have a seal surface where it needs to be?
Yep, mine works perfect. My axle is from a '93 Dodge (last year of leaf sprung D60's, or at least last one before vacuum style). Moser cut down my longside shaft the 3.5". I also got another longside and had it cut down for a spare, just incase I ever broke that longside inner on the trail, I dont think anyone would have one I could use. I also put new 332x's on my shafts as well as converting to 35spline outers. So technically my weak link will be the inners they are from '93, and my stubs and u-joints are brand new. You want a pic of the longside before it went into the axle? May take me a day or so, because I am still Digi-less and must scan .
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Old 07-11-2002, 08:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yeah, a pic would be nice!


I am still flip-flopping back and forth on the narrowing issue. Seems LOTS easier to keep it stock full width, but narrowing would let me basically bolt it under my truck and not move the spring hangers.

A buddy will help me narrow it, so no cost except for the shaft work. I guess my other problem is then finding a similarly narrow 60 rear to match up or someone who is willing to narrow one side of the offset rear 60 I have

But from my impression of the stock tapered long side shafts, I was wondering if they could be cut down. I have a full set of inner spares on their way to me - so I will do some measuring and I may just go that route after all... Even better to - puts me almost the same width as my Toy was before with the stock axles
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Old 07-11-2002, 03:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Vova ~ Are you going to run 16.5 rims to clear those fatty calipers, shave the calipers, or run 15"ers with a 2" backspacing?
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Old 07-11-2002, 08:54 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Vova ~ Are you going to run 16.5 rims to clear those fatty calipers, shave the calipers, or run 15"ers with a 2" backspacing?
My plan is to run Hummer rims and either get new centers put in and make them like 5" BS.
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Old 07-11-2002, 09:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Vova, don't waste your time even trying to use the Toyota M/C. I tried it and had to pump the pedal like 3 times to stop.

I have a picture of the M/C adapter on my web site.
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Old 07-11-2002, 09:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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yea, Scott (rockstomper) is building me an adaptor plate to use with a chevy master
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Old 07-11-2002, 10:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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how much for scott's hook up? I am going 60/14blt also!
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Old 07-11-2002, 10:41 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Smile

Quote:
Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
how much for scott's hook up? I am going 60/14blt also!
He was saying something like $35-$40 for the adaptor plate and hardware.
Email him http://www.rockstomper.com/
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85' Toyota truck/runner. 60/14 bolt, 4.3L, 39.5's.
07' Turner RFX for exercise. (Ride hard or ride cross country)


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04/17/04 - 12/08/08

Last edited by vova; 07-11-2002 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 07-11-2002, 10:53 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Thanks I'll look into it!
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Old 01-29-2016, 09:12 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Does anyone have the part # for the Chevy master cyclinder?
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Old 01-29-2016, 11:50 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Here is the one I used:

Cardone 10-1584
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