Mr Stubs notebook - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Toyota - Truck and 4Runner
Notices

Reply
 
Share LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-12-2009, 07:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Mr Stubs notebook

With the FAQ full of holes and the realization that others can fully deleate anything that they have ever posted, I have decided to make myself a note book.
I am going to add all of the small tidbits that I read and find useful but can never remember were they are. I would just subscribe to the threads ....... but....... if I was to find something usefull in a thread like a "TG vs. The World" and subscribe to it..... ya, 10 pages back to find that one post?

This is more for me but I am sure that it could help others as well.




pickeledpigsfeet
Registered User

o2 sensor

either one of 2 things, you fawked up the wiring or bad o2 sensor.

most of us have had trouble with bosch uni o2 sensors. Many of them do not sit low enough into the exhaust stream to get a good reading. They have also been known to be bad straight out of the box.

go to www.sparkplugs.com and order the ngk or denso o2. Unfortunately with toyota trucks you cant skimp on the o2 sensors or sparkplugs.
__________________
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 10-04-2009 at 08:01 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-12-2009, 07:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
----------------------------------------------------------
Haggar
Maniac

Toy axle turning radi

Best thread I've seen on what the Toy axle housing and knuckles are capable of.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=461263


Stock Toyota= 30*
Previous gen of 30-spline longs - 38*
Current gen of 30-spline longs - 40*
Trail Gear Dirty-Turdys = ???

Stock Toy knuckle with NO felts= 41*

Dana 44= 35-38*


Stock Dana 60 = 32*
Dana 60 with clearanced alloy usa axles and clearanced dedenbear knuckles= ~42*
Dana 60 with spidertrax knuckles= 50* ?
Dana 60 with spidertrax knuckles and 1550 joints= 60* (uber $$$$ option)
__________________
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 10-04-2009 at 08:03 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 02-13-2009, 05:42 AM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Removing Interlock Pin W/O a twin stick


4CrawlR


I doesn't seem like anything strange will happen. I did this on mine and it shifts just the same. The olny place the shift rods line up are in 4H, so that's the only place you can shift side to side.
_______

toy283


Just make sure that the shift rods are lined up in 4wd/hi when you put in the shifter. If they are in 2wd/neutral they will line up but the shifter will will not work right. You would end up with 2wd hi-neutral-lo but only 4wd neutral.

__-------


bobaki

Sammy's t/cases are set up (by Petroworks and others) so you can shift both rails seperatly(twin stick ,with one stick) you remove the interlock pin andopen up the slot on the 2/4 rail so that in neutral on the hi/lo rail you can slip over to the 2/4 rail select 2 or 4 slip back and select hi or low................... easy ,I have done it on my dual case toy .not in service but works on the bench
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 10-04-2009 at 08:03 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 02-13-2009, 11:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Priming oil pump

dasumax


I was told by an old engine builder to fill the oil pump up (around the gears) with bearing grease, that way the pump is primed, it mixes with the oil, and gets changed out in the first oil change. worked good for me.
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-16-2009, 05:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
PS reservoir capacity mod

List of steering mods and info



PS reservoir capacity mod

txzuk1988

Not sure what the toy factory reservoir capacity is. But I used it stock with a stock mini truck pump for a while. I simply cut the reservoir in half and added some exhaust tubing to make the tank about 8" tall.
__________________


MT4Runner


3.5" exhaust tubing is a perfect fit inside each half.
__________________


Originally Posted by halonamiaha
if you plan to run hydro-assist with a modded or high flow pump, make it as big as you can, and if possible incorperrate a baffle to keep fluid swirl to a minimum. mine has a capacity of 2.5 quarts. i would steer clear of the trail gear resevuior, the inlet port is too restrictive even when drilled out causing foaming and excessive heat


Bleeding hydro system


Wilson


You do not need to crack the lines at the ram to bleed the system. The proper way is to put the front end on jack stands and cycle the steering back and forth from lock to lock several times. Have someone check the reservoir and add as needed. Then, start the vehicle (still on jack stands) and cycle it again a couple times. If you feel you've gotten most of the air out, lower the front end and cycle it running with weight on the tires. The load should work out any small remaining pockets.

PSC recommends Royal Purple steering fluid with their systems. Not cheap, but mine has worked great now for over a year and I really was worried about the pump from posts on here.


TNToy

General outline for all systems, bleeder or no:

Power steering systems bleed much more rapidly with the front end off the ground. It's pretty much common knowledge at any shop to have the vehicle in the air on a rack (just a few inches) after replacing the box/rack or a pump. There's much less force required from the pump with the tires off the ground, which keeps the pump from cavitating as badly and aerating the hell out of the fluid.

Start small - centered steering wheel, move it only about an inch to either side, and work your way over the course of a minute or two to spinning the wheel lock-to-lock. Keep an eye on the fluid level as you do this, obviously.

If it starts to whine and will NOT stop, check the fluid. If it's foamy, it's aerated. You'll have to turn the motor off an let it sit for 20 minutes or more, and the air will eventually come to the surface and seperate from the fluid.



ddtoy90


a much easier way than starting with inch movements and increasing, is to place the front of the vehicle( either on a lift or with a jack) and with the vehicle NOT RUNNING cycle from lock to lock about 20 times and checking the fluid. after that start the vehicle and usually that works and its quick and easy. if you hear any wines shut it off and cycle from lock to lock another 5-10 times then recheck. with this way i have never had any problems with it cavitating or airating.

Oil Cooler


OOP'S



Go to P-N-P and look for a cooler, 80's Ford Aerostars have them behind the front bumper or maybe you can find one stuck on the radiator of some old Chevy pickup. I bought an oil filter relocator from Summit for about $25.00 and some barb fittings and that is what I did for a filter. Why buy it when you can make it or adapt it.



Facts about drilling stock oil restrictor

ErikB



Drilling the restrictor out and doing nothing else (not running assist) will do absolutely nothing.

It won't have any affect on pressure because that is determined by the valve behind the restrictor (the one you can shim for higher pressure). When max pressure is attained, the valve allows the pump to internally bypass. This is what is going on 99% of the time, when you aren't needing/using the power assist.

It won't increase any fluid flow/usage because the steering box is still the primary limiting factor and the box gets plenty of flow in the stock configuration.

When you do add the assist though, drilling the restrictor does make a noticable difference in steering speed when the pump is spinning slowly (engine at or near idle).

__________________


Restrictor hole ream size

Mr Stubs

Seems that the most common sizes to drill out the restrictor are 3/16 or 13/64s (they are so close in size I think that the 1/16th larger 13/64 is the way to go.



Toyota and saginaw TC fitting sizes for PS pumps


MaXXis85


Toy boxes have these fittings at the box
Pressure = 16MM x 1.5
Return = 17MM x 1.5

You can use these adapters from PSC to make it work
16mm x 1.5 to #6 I.F. JIC Pressure


17mm x 1.5 to #6 JIC I.F. Return


Also on the trurn you can use the old return hardline and use a compression fitting to mate a new hose to it.
__________________
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 12-26-2009 at 06:35 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-16-2009, 08:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Richard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 233
Location: Marion and Polk County , Oregon
Posts: 12,169
Blog Entries: 1
__________________
[COLOR="Red"]The Weather Is Here , Wish You Were Beautiful[/COLOR]
Richard is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-03-2009, 05:41 AM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Propane
Rock God


This is a ford c4 trans. They supposedly run almost upside down. We'll see.
Hopefully the shakedown run will happen in the next couple weeks.
__________________
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2009, 09:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Rim and Back Space info

YOTAon40s


Do you have a PN# for the 17's and the rings from ORO??
Part Number For Wheels (4-Wheel Parts) "PCW97-7983" They Don't Advertise The 2.5" BS Online, You Have To Specify The BS.

Part Number For The Rings "weldon-bl_comp-17"
(Link To Page http://www.offroadoverstock.com/stor...rows=10&afid=& )
__________________
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2009, 09:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
84Xcab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108503
Location: Lincoln,CA
Posts: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Stubs View Post
YOTAon40s


Do you have a PN# for the 17's and the rings from ORO??
Part Number For Wheels (4-Wheel Parts) "PCW97-7983" They Don't Advertise The 2.5" BS Online, You Have To Specify The BS.

Part Number For The Rings "weldon-bl_comp-17"
(Link To Page http://www.offroadoverstock.com/stor...rows=10&afid=& )
__________________
Offroad overstock link is invalid
84Xcab is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-10-2009, 06:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Member # 79272
Location: jackson mi
Posts: 342


Thanks for using my pic.
Also the exhaust tubing should be 3.5"

Last edited by cruiserjg; 03-10-2009 at 06:18 AM.
cruiserjg is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-10-2009, 02:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Turbo info

Haggar
Maniac


And, as I also noted, generally turbos have water and oil lines to them. The oil drain really needs to run downhill with no loops or bends right from the turbo to the oil pan. Poor oil return lines are culprits for killing lots of turbos.

__________________
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-19-2009, 07:41 AM   #12 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Air shock valving info/basic 4-link tech

ErikB
Grocery Getter





Posts: 7,758 Another tall TG 4-link with really steep link angles (super high anti-squat).


Starting with easiest things first:

1) Add a whole bunch more oil to the shocks to increase their spring rate.

2) The next easiest thing is to get a single bleed piston, or even easier- tap one of the bleed holes in your current pistons and install a small allen plug. Cutting off some of the bleed basically firms up the very low speed valving (body roll and downhill unloading type movements).

3) After trying that you can decide if you still need firmer shim valving.

4) I would also shorten the shock tabs to give yourself more compression travel. If it can compress more, the center of gravity will be lower when its flexed up.

5) And the last thing I'd suggest, which is also the most work, is to fix your link geometry.

I would suggest moving all 4 frame end link mounts DOWN several inches. This will improve anti-squat and roll axis.

Raising the upper link mounts on the axle end would also help improve roll axis by making it higher, and the side benefit of a higher/flatter roll axis is you'll have less axle steer too.

You can take 6 easy measurements and enter all your current info into the 4-link calculator to see where you're at, and then make some of those suggested changes in the calculator to see what moving them will improve. There are plenty of people on here who can help you with that in a thread like this if you don't know how.




__________________
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-03-2009, 05:43 AM   #13 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Turbo and propane

ktbundy


The beauty of using propane is both the octane and the fact that it is already a cool gas entering the motor. Plus it is already pressurized. The more engine vacumm the mixer senses(or boost in this case)the more fuel it provides. Propane is probably the easiest system to use with forced induction.



redneck_toy10-29-2008,



My biggest concern for adding a turbo was whether you could blow through the mixer. Most recent people are putting the mixer in front of the turbo. On toyotas this usually means using the efi intake for the throttle body. My 22r is an 81, and therefore the efi intake will not bolt up to the head. Using the blow through method means that I can leave the mixer sitting on the carbed intake. This is really the preferred method of turbocharging a propane system, provided you hook the equalizing line up between the mixer and regulator. This line compensates 1:1 for every # of boost added, according to the info I found on the net. All I need to do is buy a hat for the mixer, build/buy a turbo manifold, buy the turbo, and plumb it in.



FrankRaso
Member




If you are still researching propane system installations, I'd like to recommend four books I've read:
1) "Propane Fuel Conversions" by Jay Storer, published by S-A Design Books, ISBN # 0-931472-12-1
2) "Propane Conversion of Cars, Trucks & RVs" by Larry W. Carley, published by TAB Books, ISBN # 0-8306-3103-8
3) "Maximum Boost" by Corkey Bell, published by Bentley Publishers, ISBN # 0-8376-0160-6
4) "Turbochargers" by Hugh MacInnes, published by HP Books, ISBN # 0-89586-135-6
The first two books are out of print so you'll have to hunt around for them used but your library might even have them on the shelf. Storer's book has a chapter about turbocharging propane engines.

Amazon quick link for Maximum Boost http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-...4682673&sr=8-4


franzh (Automotive)

Propane has an octane level and fuel sensitivity levels that prohibits it from being used in CI engines with a static compression ratio much over 16.5 to 1.





This exhaust flange is made to mate to a Chevy 2 3/4 tri bolt.








Internal waste gate vacuum line is to connected between these two fittings.











MT_turbotoy





Re: Turbo oil supply line

Quote from: Mr Stubs
"After looking at the oil return port on my turbo and the pic of a stock oil return line I have another Q. Douse the return line dia need to be larger than the intake line?"


the drain line is much bigger than the feed line.

here are the inside diameter of a stock ct20 oil lines (they just so happened to sitting next to me and my calipers).
feed .33
drain: .66
so 2x the diameter.




Me





22RE Turbo oil feed

If you actually 4x4 with your truck drilling the block out so that it drains where the 22RTE's drain wouldn't be a bad idea either, if ur gonna be side hilling for a long time, because an oil pan drain could be under oil.




DOARACING





Re: 22RE Turbo oil feed

Quote from: Me
"If you are building a 22RE turbo motor you shouldn't tap into the existing oil holes below the oil filter because that is unfiltered oil. You should drill a new hole just to the left of the filter, there is a flat spot there, this could be the spot where the 22RTE's get their oil ?"



This is a pic of a 22r-re block on the pass side. White marks the filtered oil spot that is good to tap.







RTE's gain access for turbine oiling from the rear of the block, through a drilled galley that intersects the channel from the pump. When you feed from the existing port you've described you simply add a Moroso inline tubular filter. Real easy task. You can certainly drill and tap the boss you've mentioned as well, but oil filters tend to bypass often, and they're no comparison to an aftermarked tube filter's abilities, and the tube in line can be cleaned, and reused indefinitely. Good point of mention though.


EVEN BETTER ON THE OIL SUPPLY


jimep

Re: Turbo oil supply line

I had the machine shop try to drill and tap the drivers side oil line in but they got part way through and hit the water jacket so from experience the best place to get the oil supply is just to the left of the oil filter in the raised section running horizontaly to the back of the block. that is the filtered oil galley. it even has ine flat spot cast into it about an inch or 2 away from the oil filter that works perfectly... the spot inside the motormount bracket is unfiltered oil and would require another oil filter... -4 line flex line works good for an oil supply line but wouldn't reccomend anything smaller than 1/2 inch inside diameter for the drain. It's working good for me so far on my ct 26.


This is a pic of the driver side 22r-re block. White is the spot where the oil supply is on a turbo rig. I am still unsure on if it is possible to drill this journal....






lbhsbz


Power steering hose

The High pressure hose (pump to box) is turbo specific (stock 22ret)...and the dealer wants over $350 for it.

The ONLY aftermarket supplier that I found who makes the correct hose is Beck Arnley. Part number 109-3067 ... available through Autozone for about $80.




22re injectors vs. 22rte injectors


turtlecharged_RN5


RE injectors will not work with the RTE computer. The RE injectors are high impedance 190cc/min; the RTE injectors are low impedance 295cc/min.


7mge injectors work in 22rte?

Mosk



Matti Kalalahti's Toyota fuel injector spotter's guide http://www.kalalahti.com/dataBySubject/Injectors.html

According to the above guide, 7MGE yellow yellow tops flow the same as the 22RTE (295 cc/min), and are low impedance/peak & hold, same as the 22RTE, but they use a different connector. So if you use them, you will either need a pigtail adapter or will need to swap pigtails completely.

You might want to talk to RC Engineering. They may be able to hook you up with some adapters or pigtails.



22re vs. 22rte combustion chamber size (head)


86turboyota


The 22RTE head has larger combustion chambers (63cc) vs. the 22RE (55cc).
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 12-29-2009 at 07:50 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-07-2009, 08:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
dcg9381
Global Moderator



Re: Power steering hose

Adapter fittings:
Power Steering Box AN-Fittings
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=495627
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=617050
High Pressure Port - 16 x 1.5 MM Inverted Flare to #6 JIC Male adapter, Toyota - 'PSC Motorsports' #PSC-SF06 or 'Summit Racing' #EAR-9919DFJERL
Low Pressure Port - 17 x 1.5 MM Inverted Flare to #6 JIC Male adapter, Toyota - 'PSC Motorsports' #PSC-SF07


Note, when you build your own, which you can do with hardware from Jegs/Summit - make SURE you get lines that are rated for PS pressure. Do not use standard braded hose.
The other gotcha is that these lines typically require very specific fittings on their ends that are not compatible with other braded hoses.
My brother tried standard braded hoses on a hydroboost system on a Jeep... Very Bad Idea.
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 10-04-2009 at 07:59 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-08-2009, 08:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Stripped exhaust stud repair/fix

ROKNROLLR



STRIPPED EXHAUST STUD REPAIR/FIX

For those of you who have the stripped stud syndrome, here's your solution.........

NAPA BALKAMP HELICOIL METRIC THREAD REPAIR KIT
SIZE: M10X1.25
PART#7703020

HELICOIL THREAD REPAIR METRIC KIT
SIZE: M10X1.25-12
INSERT PART#HEL-5543-10

These are available from any Napa auto parts store........or any brand thread repair(Helicoil type) size M10x1.25 will work.



3RZ exhaust studs


mosk



One tip I can also pass along is to consider using 3RZ exhaust studs, as they have a male Torx head and can thus be tightened independently, without having to resort to double-nutting. (Credit Tim Jenkins for that tip.)
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 10-04-2009 at 07:59 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-14-2009, 03:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
AN fitting sizes (oil, hose, ext)

Size comparison AN size -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -8 -10 -12 -16 -20 -24 -28 -32
Tube OD (Hose ID) 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" 1" 1-1/4" 1-1/2" 1-3/4" 2"
SAE thread size 5/16-24 3/8-24 7/16-20 1/2-20 9/16-18 3/4-16 7/8-14 1-1/16-12 1-5/16-12 1-5/8-12 1-7/8-12 2-1/4-12 2-1/2-12
Pipe thread size (NPS) 1/8-27 1/4-18 3/8-18 1/2-14 3/4-14



or http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_fitting
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-14-2009, 07:35 PM   #17 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Oil sending unit thread type

Its 28 BSPT.......right ?? Went through this last year, LC has the adapter to go from 28 BSPT to -4. Hope thats the info your looking for.

EDIT: Link - http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...D-1C6F03AC0AF2

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...&go_button.y=0
__________________
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 01-17-2011 at 09:13 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-16-2009, 05:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Oil tech

http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-16-2009, 01:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
tire balancing with BBs

http://www.counteractbalancing.com/application1.html
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-27-2009, 05:35 AM   #20 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
upgraded throttle body...

Link to my 60mm TB upgrade
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...plication.html




and AFMs for turbo rigs......... or Propane using EFI plume


mosk

(Info is in regards to 22rte)

Well, you need to treat the entire intake tract as a *system*, and improve all parts of it. Otherwise, yeah, all you do is move the restriction to a different part of the system.

If you are running the stock ECU, you want to find a larger AFM from a 1982 Supra 5MGE motor. It's a plug and play replacement for the stock AFM, and it flows like 40% more volume. The 1982 -- and ONLY the 1982 -- is plug and play. The 1983-85 Supra and Cressida AFMs require a circuit board swap with the stock 22RTE AFM.I have more info here:

http://www.well.com/user/mosk/AFM1.htm#AnchorBigAFM

The size of the throttle body definitely makes a difference. Remember, boost is pressure. Pressure is fine, but what you really want is flow. Make the motor capable of breathing deeply.

The stock TB is 55mm. It can be overbored to 58mm. There is a Supra TB -- probably 5MGE, but not sure -- that uses the same bolt pattern as stock but is 60mm (it can probably be overbored, too). For any larger TB, you should also gasket match the plenum opening. The maximum this opening can be enlarged to on the stock plenum is ~63mm.

You can go bigger than 60mm -- I run a 65mm Ford TB -- but it requires soem customization/fabrication, and not really an option unless you are running a different ECU.

-Jeff



mosk



Re: upgraded throttle body...


Really? I run a TB from a '98 Explorer 5.0L, and it was definitely NOT a bolt on.

Ford Explorer TB w/adapter plate:



Same, painted and with linkage:



The template and instructions I made for this:



The biggest problem is the TPS sensor: if you run the stock ECU, there is no easy way to adapt the Toyota 4 wire TPS to the Ford 3 wire TPS without losing the idle circuit.

-Jeff


dcg9381

The supra body is bolt-on, but will require some modifications to how you attach the throttle cable to it. It will also require porting of the upper plenum. Don't forget to use a late model plenum with the "straight" neck.

Above is the cheap option. The "easy" option is to pay $300.




mosk



There are a lot of restrictions in the stock intake and exhaust setups. If the goal is to make the whole motor breathe better, everything needs to be examined for restrictions.

I can state from personal experience that once you've upgraded the exhaust, upgrading to an overbored TB will give you an extra 5 hp or so, maybe a couple hp more if you are running more boost. My original exhaust upgrade was to 2.5", and it produced a noticeable but not earth-shattering performance gain. Shortly afterwards, I upgraded to an overbored stock TB, and there was another seat of the pants gain. The combination of the bigger exhaust and bigger TB made a real difference, even with a stock turbo. FWIW, LC claims ~5 hp for their TB upgrade for the 22RE, and this seems reasonable.

Of course, it's also true that upgrading the turbo is going to make a bigger difference, especially since the CT20 is such a poor turbo. But these are all pieces of a system, and each piece plays a role. The TB is an easy bolt-on, and a bigger TB will yield more power, even with a stock CT20. With a bigger turbo in place, it's an even better upgrade.

-Jeff
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 12-19-2012 at 07:52 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2009, 05:52 AM   #21 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Wheel stud option and lug nut site

dlarrivee
Registered User


after going to a few parts stores looking for some longer metric studs, I gave up on that idea... I eventually found a 1/2 x 20 tpi stud for the rear of a '70 Chevy Pickup... The Dorman part number is 610-073 (they have a decent website for parts lookup), and a part number interchange is Raybestos 6228B (and 1200N for new open-ended lug nuts).


This is about the only stud I found where the knurl continues through the entire shoulder and will engage the Toyota hub properly, the knurl diameter is exactly the same as the OEM Toyota wheel stud. This is also one of the few studs that's longer than 2" overall (while still having a long shoulder and knurl), it's actually about 2 3/8".

Anyways they press in quite nicely.





mikevyota



Correct lug nuts for the Dorman wheels studs #610-073 is wheel nut #611-016.

And for the Toyota IFS rear axle, the 1/2 20 studs are Dorman #610-523. Application is a 2005-2009 Ford Mustang. Proper knurl diameter, proper shoulder length and an extended length for thicker than stock wheels.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-29990-610-523.aspx
__________________

Good place to get lug nuts. They carry collared ones that work well for wheel spacers that need more thread engagement.

http://www.lakeshorewheelandtire.com...tart=240&id=22
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 10-18-2010 at 07:07 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-20-2009, 05:40 AM   #22 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Turbo flywheel clutch size

Hadmatt54



for those of you who are interested. 22re takes a 8 3/4" clutch, the 22rte takes a 9 1/4" clutch. It takes the same clutch as a 5m-ge in a 5 speed Supra or Cressida (pre 1989). Toyota Part number for the 22rte flywheel was 13405-35030 this is no longer available, but has been superseded by toyota part # 13405-39106. This new flywheel takes the 9 1/4" clutch and many people don't know this, but these flywheels can be found on 92/8 to 96 2.4l (22re) 4wd Toyota Pickups.
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2009, 08:51 PM   #23 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
Leaf springs and rear steer

GRMhick

Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner
Hey Dave, do you think a set of your 5.5" springs (taller arch) will solve some of my rear-steer problem with my FToy? After KOH, I discovered that I bent/busted one of my rear BBCS shocks. I think it may have been because the axle walked so far forward and the shock eyes were oriented side-side and it put a huge cross-load on the shock.

Reply:
You need to raise your rear spring eye to help with rear steer, so go to a taller spring, raise the rear mount, and it will help.
__________________



Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner
No kidding?!?! Cool. Can you explain why that happens? Is it because the rear eye is so much lower than the front eye, so the entire spring pack is tilted? Stuff moves the axle up and back and droop moves the axle down and forward??? Am I getting it?


Reply:

You pretty much get it.

The spring moves in 2 directions: compression and droop moves it vertically, and the shackle moves it for/aft depending on design.

By designing an incline angle into the leaf spring, your vertical travel is now angled, so as the spring compresses, it moves forward, and when it droops it moves back.

Combine this movement with the rear shackle moving the spring backwards in compression, and forward in droop, and your able to counteract the movement of both leaf spring and shackle to make the axle move vertically throughout the range of travel.

Perfect senario: Leaf spring compresses up and forward from the angle of the spring, and compresses up and backwards from the shackle to make the spring move vertically up.
Leaf spring droops down and back from the angle of the spring, then down and forward from the shackle to make the spring move vertically down.

90% of lifted toyotas have the rear spring eye lower than the front to get the hight they need. If you notice, a stock mini truck has the rear spring eye a few inches higher than the front. Go to a dealership and you'll find the new trucks have the rear eye about 6" higher than the front.
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-10-2009, 08:38 PM   #24 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 8,894
AX-15 to R150/151 Trannys

Pat

As far as the ax-15 it is the same tranny as the toyota r150/r151 with a differant input and output shaft.. So all you jeep haters have no clue Also you can take a ax-15 with a r151 or r150 and make a hybrid tranny so you can run a atlas in your toyota..




WHITE TRASH


You can save one adapter by using a AX15 tailhousing and shift rails. It has the correct 6 round pattern for the 300. You can use that tailhousing on either a R150 or R151 trans. Personally I'd use a R150, the loss of .36:1 in reduction will be more than offset by the added strength of an input gear with an extra tooth on it.



W series transmission front bolt pattern



carpenoctem


I figured I'd pass along what someone on my forum sent my way. It's the W series transmission front bolt pattern and other applicable measurements.







R150 and R151F input shaft length


MT4Runner

Originally Posted by 4runner666
21 spline and 23 spine are the trans OUTPUT. the input shaft between an r150 and r151f are identical and the w56 has the same spline count as well.

I stand corrected. R150 and R151F both have 21-spline input shafts.

They are not identical, though.

Input shaft lengths:
Pre 1995 R150\R151 = 6.5"
1995 up Toyota R series = 7.5"
AX15 = 7.875"
87-92 Turbo Supra R154 = 7.25"
NV3550 = 7.875"
AX5 = 7.5"
Toyota W series = 6.5"


Found some good tech in this thread

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...l#post34478338


boing.
Registered User


Quote:
Originally Posted by boing. View Post
I have built a few of these combos r151, r150, and ax15... You have to cut a spacer on the lathe to take up the distance...

Here is a few pics of the last one I built... I also recommend using the midplate off of the r series (its steel) ax's is aluminum... (Also dont use the late style r150, they are junk imo)

You can see that 5th gear needs a shim to take up the space between the snap ring and the gear...



You can see the spacer on this pic...



Bead blasted the housings, after final assembly I shot them with clear...



After having driven several of these combo's my favorite is to use the ax15 gear set (1st through 4th) with the r150 midplate (early r150 style) and r150 5th gear set... Nice tight gear spacing...




_________________
__________________
[COLOR="Magenta"]Help bring back Swartz Canyon, Join
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Lime"]The good guys...[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]Marlin Crawler, Hellfire Fabworks, Dave'z Offroad, gearinstalls.com (Zuk), Diamond Axle, RADesigns, Advanced Adapters, Jantz Engineering, G-Fab motorsports, Got Propane, JHF [/COLOR]

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 12-02-2015 at 05:02 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-11-2009, 03:12 AM   #25 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 97010
Location: Shreveport, La.
Posts: 611
Damn good idea, Mr Stubs.
tortis is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.