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Old 03-18-2009, 03:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Any Electrical Engineers in the Room? Need help simplifing a elocker wiring

Installed a seabass panel. Everything was great, except the wiring wouldn't engage an FJ Cruiser Elocker (or a tacoma one I had laying around...)

So I wired it up, and this scematic works great. But using 14 relays for 2 lockers is nuts.

Anyone want to edit my diagram to simplify the system?

Mostly, simplifying the light will be helpful.
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Last edited by GRMhick; 03-18-2009 at 04:04 PM.
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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these help
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No, they dont come close to helping. That first diagram doesnt work. The second I didnt try, nor do I want to.

Last one is a decent diagram, but is not anything like the diagram I am using.

I'm looking to see if someone can edit MY diagram.
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRMhick View Post
No, they dont come close to helping. That first diagram doesnt work. The second I didnt try, nor do I want to.

Last one is a decent diagram, but is not anything like the diagram I am using.

Waah!!! :crybaby3: If yours doesn't work, why did you draw it in the first place? If it's a redraw of the factory schematic, and you don't like it...why did you draw it?

Quote:
I'm looking to see if someone can edit MY diagram.
Are you just trying to thin/simplify the factory harness?

That will generally cost you



I'll give it a whack.
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The schematic works great. Its not a redraw of the factory one, its one I drew up. Its just complicated with alot of relays.

I am a bit cranky, recovering from one heck of a hang over.

Here, let me also write it out:

This system uses a SPST switch, 7 switching relays, a flasher, a 6 ohm 50 watt resistor, and a 3 amp fuse. The light on the dash flashes when the locker is engaging or disengaging. It stays solid when the locker is engaged.

Factory plug looks like:

1 2
3 4 5

and

6 7

Ground 5 and 6

Relays 1 through 3 are for Engaging the locker
Relay #1

85: switched 12v+
86:Ground
87: 1
87a: 2
30: 12v+

Relay# 2

85: Switched 12v+
86:Ground
87: 2
87a: 1
30: 30 Connector on Relay #3

Relay# 3

85: switched 12v+
86: Ground
87: 3
87a: 4
30: 30 Connector on Relay #2

Relays 4-7 Activate the Light 4 and 5 are the 'Engaged', 6 and 7 are flashing

Relay # 4

85: 1
86: 2
87:
87a: Dash Light
30: 30 12v+

Relay # 5

85: 1
86: 2
87:
87a: Dash Light
30: 7

Relay # 6

85: 1
86: 2
87: Dash Light
87a:
30: 2

Relay # 7

85: 1
86: 2
87: To Flasher/resistor, then light
87a:
30: 1
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Last edited by GRMhick; 03-18-2009 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hey Cranky,

What's a matter with Bass's E-locker harness?

Kiwi

Edit: It dose'nt use any relays.

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Old 03-18-2009, 04:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwipushrod View Post
Hey Cranky,

What's a matter with Bass's E-locker harness?

Kiwi

Edit: It dose'nt use any relays.
Sorry for the confusion... I didn't use bass's diagram.
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Old 03-18-2009, 04:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I've got one of Bass's (12voltguy.com) E-locker harnesses, it could'nt be any simpler. No relays, and still reports. With the resistor option to slow down the actuator motor.

Kiwi
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Old 03-18-2009, 04:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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No offense, but that wiring diagram is overkill, and more importantly unecessary

I used the last one pictured, with two relays, one indicator light, using the built in limit switches... it works perfectly and IMO is how they all should be wired...
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Old 03-18-2009, 04:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Here ya go. Down to 4 relays per locker.

Not sure why you're using 3 relays for the locking function--you could use only two per the SeaBass44 schematic.

You do need the light relay if you want it to blink while locking, and steady when locked.

I switched the neutral leg on the relay with the locked switch.
Where you'd normally have the switched +12v, I fed it constant +12V, since we're switching the ground on the locked switch.

Where you'd normally put constant +12V, I gave it the switched +12V off your locker switch so you don't have power when the locker is off.

You get blinking when engaging; solid when engaged.
You don't get blinking when disengaging, but you lost 3 relays!!
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Old 03-18-2009, 04:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Here's one with a few more notes on it:
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Old 03-18-2009, 04:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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And when looking closer at your locker relays,


Locker Pin #3 Lock Limit, and Locker Pin #4 Unlock Limit are switched grounds.

You're running them backwards through your Relay #3 to feed what you think is +12V power to #30 on Relay #2??
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I also use the one that only uses two relays and its simple and works very well! I am a huge fan of the KISS idea!!!
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The way I figured out the wiring:

to lock the diff, connect 1 and 3
12V+ to 2
12V- to 5

To unlock the diff, connect 2 and 4
12v+ to 1
12v- to 5

I don't know anything about switched grounds. They seem like switches which open and close baised on diff position, not ground out.

Thanks for simplifying that wiring. I'm overthinking things, and am going to ditch the relays, and use the seabass wiring. Although, I want to keep the blinking light wiring. I wish I could make it contuine to blink, as long as the motor is on, but the simplicity of this wiring outweighs the added relays.

My reasoning behind wanting it to blink, is so that i know if the motor stays on when its not supposed to be.

I owe you a beer!
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Last edited by GRMhick; 03-18-2009 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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sorry you are having trouble, someone PMed me about this post and thought I may be able to help out

I function test each & every unit on my rig before I ship these full kits out.
I use a DPDT ON/ON toggle & LED
no relays at all.
I do not test out just panels, if you bought a panel & no cable install kit, there is a slim chance it could be a defective toggle.

you could use this switch as an on/off, but I'm not sure what you are doing or how you are wiring the switch
feel free to call me or email me on how that toggle wires up
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:51 PM   #16 (permalink)
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ps if you want the LED to blink, emailme your address & I wilkl send you a flashing relay to replace the one in panel, that is an option on my site when you order, I'm going to do flashing when I redo my rigs switches, like I ever have time, lol
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaBass44 View Post
sorry you are having trouble, someone PMed me about this post and thought I may be able to help out

I function test each & every unit on my rig before I ship these full kits out.
I use a DPDT ON/ON toggle & LED
no relays at all.
I do not test out just panels, if you bought a panel & no cable install kit, there is a slim chance it could be a defective toggle.

you could use this switch as an on/off, but I'm not sure what you are doing or how you are wiring the switch
feel free to call me or email me on how that toggle wires up
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Nope, your stuff is all A+ quality. No problems with your stuff at all. I'm having trouble because im trying to overthink the situation, and install relays to turn the locker on and off. I need to stop doing this, and follow the instructions you gave.

In fact, I have had some kind of minor problem with every vendor I have purchased from, except for you. Your products, and service are top notch. I get comments about your switch panel by every person that gets in my truck.


And as soon as I get my dual tanks wired up, I'll be calling to order a 3rd switch panel for this truck.
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Last edited by GRMhick; 03-18-2009 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:54 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaBass44 View Post
ps if you want the LED to blink, emailme your address & I wilkl send you a flashing relay to replace the one in panel, that is an option on my site when you order, I'm going to do flashing when I redo my rigs switches, like I ever have time, lol
is it a flashing, AND solid LED

or

flashing OR solid LED
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:58 PM   #19 (permalink)
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is it a flashing, AND solid LED

or

flashing OR solid LED
good to see my stuff is all ok

the flashing LED is off while locker off
when you turn locker on, a position sensor connects a grd when locked, thesmall 2 wire plug on diff, & this grounds the LED turning it on, & then the LED will either be solid on in a norm LED or will flash with a flashing type LED

I like the idea of a flashing one so I don't forget to turn it off, I'm like absent minded and stuff
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Old 03-18-2009, 08:38 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Mike Carter's web site used to have several different diagrams for the lockers and different indicator light options, but it seems the site is gone?
http://www.carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker



Anyway, I used the diagram below when wiring up a friends front and rear lockers, except with no resistor. We put the two switches and led's in a little dash panel to the right of the steering wheel (should have snapped a pic).

I used one DPDT [momentary-ON/OFF/momentary-ON] switch and one 12v LED from Radio Shack per locker. The rest was just 6-conductor trailer wire and crimp connectors.

I'm an electronics tech and could have done something different or more elaborate, but this was very clean and simple and it has been working flawlessly. I like the KISS principle, especially when it comes to maintenance and troubleshooting (even though its my specialty!).

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Last edited by ErikB; 03-18-2009 at 08:40 PM.
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