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Old 08-22-2009, 07:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2nd try TDI

Some of you may have seen my first ATTEMPTED build
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...0&highlight=vw


Lets just say I have learned plenty over the past few years. Alot has happened since I started that build. so I scrapped the chassis and I am putting the drivetrain in my daily driver IFS truck. My clutch was worn to shit, and someone wanted to buy my 3.0, so this weekend I am taking on the task of getting this thing at least welded up and hopefully wired to run (everything but plumbing and charge piping).


Read through the TDI FAQ for most of the information needed.
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=776335




Here are the parts

-1994 Pickup
-TDI from a 2001 Jetta (ALH)
-W56
-Marlin HD clutch
-dual cases
-2 inch body lift (I had no choice)
-Intercooler (240sx)
-2.5inch exhaust no cat no muffler
-Tuned ECU
-custom guages

The ECU was sent of to VWMikel of TDIclub.com forum. He eliminated The immobilizer and Tuned the ECU for some more balls along with various other tweaks.


The wiring harness is a stand alone unit needing just +12v and GND to run






One of the largest issues you will deal with with a swap like this is the oil pan clearance. I tried numerous oil pans but due to my newbieness I ordered the wrong one twice. This was a costly mistake so I decided to use the stock ALH pan. As you will see in later pictures the issues are more at the front of the diff than the rear so different pan would make very little difference. Personally I would suggest spending the time to make a custom steel one to suit your needs. Their is no way in hell I can get this pan off without pulling the engine.

The Vacuum pump on the rear of this engine in particular sticks out the back about 2-3inches more than most other VW engines. Because of this I had to push the drivetrain forward 3in. The steering stabilizer was also a bitch so I will move it out of the way slightly, most of you wont have to deal with this.











I also had to drill and tap the VW Crank pulley to accept the Toyota PS pulley. I eliminated the AC and the VW PS pump in favor of making a bracket on the passenger side for the Toyota pump. I then used a 730mm belt.






Last edited by gtr1990; 08-22-2009 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 08-22-2009, 07:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Before installing the engine I layed out the harness and Plugged in into the laptop With Vag-com cable and software to check it out.

Mercedes motor mounts with some Toyota mount parts







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Old 08-22-2009, 07:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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This was today's progress. Got engine in, trans and cases bolted up. Passenger mount started. Xmember mocked up ready for welding.



3.o is huge compared to the TDI















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Old 08-22-2009, 07:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yup, your crazy
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Old 08-22-2009, 08:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Looks good
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Old 08-22-2009, 08:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have the same year pickup, can't wait to see the whole build! bounce2:
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Old 08-22-2009, 09:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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shibby...... I like it....
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Old 08-22-2009, 11:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

tubro diesel toy, good power and 40mpg, i like it
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I am subscribing to this. I am wanting a diesel in my 4runner
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:53 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I am subscribing to this. I am wanting a diesel in my 4runner
i also want to do this in my runner. some day
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Old 08-23-2009, 02:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I admire your willingness to work on this project and to work out problems but I must say that TDI engine is not exactly a desireable engine.

First of all it has a timing belt which sucks and second of all I have no idea why in gods name you would want to keep the POS electronic injection pump!!

With the time you must have needlessly spent messing with all that wireing you could have been done with two of these swaps, and to think you could VERY easilly swap a mechanical pump onto there and be done with it makes me say WTF?

Electronics downright SUCK!! And in an offroad truck they bring the suck to an entirely new level of suck.

They are delicate, finicky, difficult to diagnose, you need a fucking laptop to adjust the pump, VERY susceptible to water and other things your likely to encounter in the outdoors.

I am not trying to insult what you have done here but there are much better ways and much more reliable ways of doing what your trying to do, electronics are not one of them.
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Old 08-23-2009, 04:00 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The MK4 TDI is actually a really strong and reliable motor. The right turbo and a good tune and you can pull some torquey numbers on the low end. So you have to change a timing belt every 80k miles.

If you know what your doing electronics are great. Being able to adjust mixtures, idle, boost and diagnose from a touch of a button in cab? sounds horrible.

Cant wait to see this up and running.
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Old 08-23-2009, 06:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I admire your willingness to work on this project and to work out problems but I must say that TDI engine is not exactly a desireable engine.

First of all it has a timing belt which sucks and second of all I have no idea why in gods name you would want to keep the POS electronic injection pump!!

With the time you must have needlessly spent messing with all that wireing you could have been done with two of these swaps, and to think you could VERY easilly swap a mechanical pump onto there and be done with it makes me say WTF?

Electronics downright SUCK!! And in an offroad truck they bring the suck to an entirely new level of suck.

They are delicate, finicky, difficult to diagnose, you need a fucking laptop to adjust the pump, VERY susceptible to water and other things your likely to encounter in the outdoors.

I am not trying to insult what you have done here but there are much better ways and much more reliable ways of doing what your trying to do, electronics are not one of them.


You are right on the timing belt thing, but if it is done regularly their is never an issue. Your opinion is bias, your using a Mercedes mill (timing chain) I own a Mercedes shop and I agree those Diesels are amazing.

This reminds me of the old timers that didn't want to let go of carbs. I am not afraid of the electrical at all. It was a huge learning experience and the knowledge gained is priceless. I am not building this truck to go water crossing, its a daily driver. If I were building a rig to get me way out into the bush and cross rivers it would be mechanical.

Electronics are a pain to get up and running but once they are they will outperform any mechanical system.

Its a matter of opinion
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:03 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Had a short day at the shop so I didnt get all the gusseting done. The drivetrain is now supported in the truck. I spent most of the morning finessing things to gain a cm of room between the firewall and vacuum pump.

The mounts are in and just need to be gusseted. because I moved the drive train forward so much I was able to use the stock frame portion of the Motor mounts from the 3.0

Cross member is welded up and just needs holes drilled for the rubber mount. It uses the stock xmember mounting locations with a stock transfer case rubber mount on the rear reduction box.







Oil pan clearance turned out good. I should be able to remove the pan with no issues. The oil will drain on to the diff, not an issue I will just suck it out from the top.

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Old 08-23-2009, 09:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The oil will drain on to the diff, not an issue I will just suck it out from the top.

Why not just make a new drain plug bung somewhere else?
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Old 08-23-2009, 11:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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http://www.uniquetruck.com/Quick_Cha..._Assem_P27.cfm

you can put this in and route a hose around the diff
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Old 08-24-2009, 06:12 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Its not a huge problem. I have the tools to suck out the oil (smart car oil changes). But the quick drain nipple is a slick setup, I think I will go for this option on the first oil change.
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:44 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Very slick build, glad to see you kept the electronics, to many people just swap pumps and lose the adjustability of the electronics....wouldnt be a true TDI swap without them.
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Old 08-26-2009, 06:35 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Haven't had much time this week to work on the truck so far. I was able to get a few hours in late in the day today. Basically just got the potentiometer mounted with a large washer on the top bolt to tilt the top out from the firewall. I also got the intercooler roughly mounted behind the grill in front of the rad support.







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Old 08-26-2009, 06:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Very slick build, glad to see you kept the electronics, to many people just swap pumps and lose the adjustability of the electronics....wouldnt be a true TDI swap without them.
Yea and gain rock solid mechanical reliability!!

Man fuck electronics and there "adjustability", when I want to adjust something I want to use a screw driver and tools not some fucking laptop and an OBDII connector, along with damn graphs and numbers!!

Reliable Electronics is an oxymoron, as is an electronic diesel!!

Diesels should be mechanical the way they were when Rudolf Diesel invented them!!!!!!!!!!!

VW can take that electronic piece of shit pump and shove it!

P.S. Sweet build and it is a nice little diesel, that intercooler looks sweet behind the toyota grill!!

Last edited by DieselHilux; 08-26-2009 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:44 PM   #21 (permalink)
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yeah, metering fuel more precisely by electronics, what a horrible idea.
stop pissing on this cool thread with the anti technology rants.
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Old 08-27-2009, 04:18 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Wile electronics may be more precice (no areguements there), it comes at a price.

Electronics are very very complex and there is WAYYYYYY too much to go wrong inside an ECU for me to ever trust one.

One little damn resistor, or transistor can bring down the entire module, and lets not even get into what happens when a diode in the alternator goes bad and feeds AC into a ECU.

I have been stranded by fucking electronics too many times and I would hate to see it happen to someone else all so they can have more precice fuel meetering.

It all boils down to one simple question, Do you REALLY need the fuel to be meetered that precicely??

NO you dont and where EFI may work more efficiently, Bosch jetronic (non electronic version) will work better than a carb with no electronics(gas engine), as will a mechanical diesel injection pump on a diesel engine.


The 1980 300SD I got my OM617 out of weighed in at approx 3300#, yet it got between 25-28mpg and thats WITHOUT overdrive.

And guess what .........NO ELECTRONICS!!

So I guess in the end electronics are NOT necessary and should never have been put on any diesel engine, THE END

Last edited by DieselHilux; 08-27-2009 at 04:19 AM.
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Old 08-27-2009, 07:21 AM   #23 (permalink)
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DieselHilux

This is not the place to debate electronics versus no-electronics. YOUR opinion is just that YOUR opinion. I value what everyone has to say to a point. You have said your preference now please take the chit chat elsewhere.
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:55 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Fine I will take my opinions somewhere else but I dont agree with your decision.
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Old 08-27-2009, 07:15 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I used a pusher fan from a Mazda that I had laying around. Made a bolt on cage to support the intercooler and fan. Also built spacers into the support to hold the rad about 1.25in back from its original location.





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