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Old 01-01-2010, 10:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Starting a 22-RE Buggy Wiring Write-Up

I've started my winter project on my '91 based truggy and need your help. I'm wanting to run ONLY the bare minimum EFI wiring off of my ECU and power as much as possible through a 12voltguy switch panel. In my research, I've found that there are FAR more questions than answers on this subject and would also like to post a write-up to help out others. I was hoping to get a good FAQ/discussion started on this thread and then answer/ organize them in the "how-to" write-up.

Here's what I need to know right now--Which components do I need to run off of my ECU to run ONLY the EFI? I'll start on the switch panel later. I already have all my wire colors and plug pinouts figured out and will post them soon. Thanks for looking.
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Old 01-01-2010, 11:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I havent started on the MAJOR part of the wiring in my 94 harness yet but so far I have stripped every extra wire out on the engine harness. All the sensors and switches on the valvecover are gone. I'll be doing the same as you so we'll be able to help each other out I'm sure as most of the color codes are the same.
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Old 01-01-2010, 11:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No 22RE wiring write-up is complete without a link to Izeloz' 22R-22RE swap. Everything you need to run the EFI, nothing more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Izeloz View Post
Here it is, after much research and time. If you have anything to add or can correct any incorrect information, that'd be good.

This information is only good for ’85-’88 swaps using manual transmissions. ’89-’95 22RE’s have a different wiring setup. Wiring colors may vary between years. Injectors were different between certain years, so if you mix/match parts your setup may not work. It is best to get everything from the same vehicle so you can make sure the ECU, plugs and associated hardware is a match.

The stock 22R head can be used with 22RE intake (if it’s an ’83 and later head), so there’s no need to get an EFI head unless the head you’re using is an early 22R head, in which case you’ll need to drill and tap three new holes or use the donor EFI head. Most of the things you will need are either on the intake or plugged into the harness, so make sure you get everything that plugs into the harness. Also make sure to get everything attached to the intake. An EFI gas tank and fuel pump must be used unless you use a fuel cell and an external fuel pump. Two fuel pumps that are popular to use are the early Toyota Celica (’88-’89) pumps, which were mounted on the framerail and the E2000 Ford pump from an ’89 E250 with the 351W V8 engine.


Parts list for 22R to 22RE swap:

1 – EFI cam (edit: not needed. A carb cam will work)
2 – throttle body
3 – fuel runner
4 – upper intake
5 – lower intake
6 – EFI gas tank
7 – airbox
8 – cross over air tube
9 – EFI distributor
10 – EFI coil
11 – brake booster vacuum hose
12 – upper radiator hose
13 – fuel lines
14 – oil pressure sending unit
15 – throttle cable
16 – head gasket (might as well throw in timing chain kit, water pump, oil pump and associated gaskets while you’re in there).

Wiring list for 22R to 22RE swap:

1 – ECU
2 – fuel pressure VSV
3 – AC idle-up VSV (if equipped)
4 – Air Suction (AS) VSV
5 – check connector
6 – Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
7 – O2 sensor
8 – EFI igniter
9 – knock sensor
10 – water thermo sensor
11 – injectors (x4)
12 – cold start injector
13 – Air Flow Meter (AFM)
14 – circuit opening relay
15 – EFI main relay (on EFI fuse panel)
16 – EFI fuse circuit (on EFI fuse panel)
17 – fuel pump (in EFI tank)
18 – air valve
19 – solenoid resistor


Once you’ve collected all the parts, you’ll have to collect some tools:

1 – 6 MM allen head driver with extension
2 – soldering iron with solder and 18 AWG shrink wrap (make sure you know how to solder well before you start this project because you’ll be doing a fair amount of it).
3 – good set of metric sockets and wrenches (8 MM to 19 MM should be a good range that will cover everything needed).
4 – misc. socket extensions/breaker bars

Now comes the fun part, taking stuff apart. Pulling the intake off of the EFI head is pretty self explanatory except for one bolt that is located just beneath the thermostat housing. You will need a long extension and a 6 MM allen head driver to remove this bolt. Once you have removed the intake, unplug all the wires from the intake and anything on the donor EFI motor (or harness) until all you are left with is a wiring harness with some plugs. You’ll have to do a bit of “surgery” on the harness now. Cut the fuse panel out of the donor harness completely, leaving about 10” of wire hanging out the back. Use a needle to remove the EFI fuse pins and the EFI Main Relay pins and pull these wires out. The rest of the fuse panel can be either saved or discarded (nothing else is needed from it). Cut the following wires at computer plug #1: W, HT, IGF and NE. Leave about eight inches of wire to work with. Cut the following wires on computer plug #2: IGT, and NSW. Again, leave about eight inches of wire to work with later. Cut the following wires on computer plug #3: 4WD, SPD, BAT, B/K, B1 and B2. Leave enough to work with. Here is a list of where these wires should be spliced:

W – violet and red, goes to the check engine light
HT – green, yellow and red, goes to the O2 sensor
IGF – brown and white, goes to the igniter
NE - black and red, goes to the igniter

IGT – black and yellow, also goes to the igniter
NSW – green and red, goes to the start circuit on the ignition switch

4WD – red, yellow and black, goes to the 4WD indicator
SPD – green and red, goes to the speed sensor on the back of the gauge cluster (not necessary for vehicle to run properly)
BAT – white, blue and red, this is the EFI fuse wire. It should go to the fuse panel behind the kick panel on the driver side. There is a place in the panel for an EFI fuse even on carb vehicles. Remove the wire from the fuse block you took from the donor truck and splice it into this fuse panel.
B/K – green, white and red, goes to the stop light switch
B1 – black and red, this is one of two Main EFI Relay wires. The Main EFI Relay wires you cut and removed from the donor fuse panel can now be spliced into your truck’s fuse panel.
B – black and red, same instructions as B1.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Izeloz View Post
1 –
FPU – FUEL PRESSURE SWITCH (B/Y/R)
ACV – AC IDLE-UP SWITCH (W/G)
*W – CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (V/R)
AS – AIR SUCTION VSV (L/R)
T – CHECK CONNECTOR (G/Y/R)
TSW – COLD START INJECTOR TIME SWITCH (G/B/R)
IDL – TPS (B/R)
*HT – O2 SENSOR (G/Y/R)
*IGF – IGNITER (BR/W)
E2 – GROUND (BR/B)
OX – O2 SENSOR (B)
VF – CHECK CONNECTOR (GR/B/R)
VCC – TPS (W/R)
KNK – KNOCK SENSOR (B)
VTA – TPS (L/R)
*NE – IGNITER (B/R)
THW – COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR (G/R)

2 –
E01 – GROUND (BR)
E02 – GROUND (BR)
10 – INJECTOR (W/R)
20 – INJECTOR (W)
STA – START SWITCH (B/R)
*IGT – IGNITER (B/Y)
STJ – COLD START INJECTOR (G/W/R)
E1 – GROUND (BR/W/B)
*NSW – START CIRCUIT ON IGNITION SWITCH (G/R)

3 –
VC – AFM (L/R/R)
E – AFM (BR/B/B)
VS – AFM (Y/L/R)
*4WD – 4WD INDICATOR LIGHT (R/Y/B)
THA – AFM (Y/R)
*SPD – SPEED SENSOR (G/R)
*BAT – EFI FUSE (W/L/R)
*B/K – STOP LIGHT SWITCH (G/W/R)
*B1 – MAIN EFI RELAY (B/R)
*B – MAIN EFI RELAY (B/R)


*-wire needs to be cut at the computer plug and spliced into existing truck harness


B – BLACK
BR – BROWN
G – GREEN
GR – GRAY
L – BLUE
R – RED
V – VIOLET
W – WHITE
Y - YELLOW
Quote:
Originally Posted by Izeloz View Post
ECU plugs overview:
Plug #1


Plug #2


Plug #3


You can wire it up without the EFI relay block, but I don't recommend it--keep this block so you retain the diagnostic jumper port:


O2 Sensor:
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Old 01-01-2010, 11:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
No 22RE wiring write-up is complete without a link to Izeloz' 22R-22RE swap. Everything you need to run the EFI, nothing more.




Nothing more unless you are dealing with a 3rd gen harness then the pin out is completely different as is a handfull of the color codes for the wires.


That is a very helpful post for an earlier swap though.
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Old 01-02-2010, 03:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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westy on this site has a nice writeup for the newer 22re. wish ors would leek there diagrams out..
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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As a lot of you already know, the '91 and '92 harness is very different from the earlier EFI harnesses and makes Izeloz's write-up nearly useless for us. Which is unfortunately because he did a great job. I've been researching and for the most part, only found dead end threads. I'm hoping this won't be another.

The best ECU diagram I've found is from Autozone (it's a free feature of their website once you register) and had to make my own plug pinout diagram by removing the cover of the ECU; it's printed on the circuit board. I'll get that posted soon.

After way too much reading, I think these are the bare essentials to run the EFI, no EGR, a compliment of Auto Meter guages and an external in-line fuel pump from Summit:

Injectors 1-4
Clutch Start Switch
- Neutral Start Switch
- Clutch Start Cancel Switch
- Battery
- Distributor
- Igniter
- Ignition Coil
- Starter
- Start Inj. Time Switch
- Cold Start
- EFI Main Relay
- Alternator
- Circuit Opening Relay
- O2 Sensor (Main)
- O2 Sensor (Sub)
- Fuel Pressure-Up Valve
- Vehicle Speed Sensor
- Throttle Position Sensor
- AFM
- Knock Sensor
- Water Temp Sensor

Here's the stuff I can ixnay from the ECU:

AS Valve
All Check Connectors
Fuel Pump
Check Engine Indicator
Stop Lamp Switch
EGR Valve
EGR Gas Temp. Sensor

Agree? Disagree? Let's hear it...
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Sounds like a start. You are going 'puter to engine while I'm going the other way with mine. I'll be going with the factory fuel pump wiring but the CEL will be left intact. But I too will be going with all aftermarket gauges as well.

One thing I wonder about is the speed sensor, why do you need that? Besides that why does a 91 harness have one?
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Sounds like a start. You are going 'puter to engine while I'm going the other way with mine. I'll be going with the factory fuel pump wiring but the CEL will be left intact. But I too will be going with all aftermarket gauges as well.

One thing I wonder about is the speed sensor, why do you need that? Besides that why does a 91 harness have one?
Guys, there are very good wiring diagrams and explanations for the later 22RE's on DavezOffroadPerformance.com forum, in the Elite section (like having a Red Star in PBB).

http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/forum/
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Old 01-03-2010, 02:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWT View Post
One thing I wonder about is the speed sensor, why do you need that? Besides that why does a 91 harness have one?
I guess I won't need it with aftermarket guages. I assume it's only necessary if I were using the factory guage cluster?
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Old 01-03-2010, 02:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Guys, there are very good wiring diagrams and explanations for the later 22RE's on DavezOffroadPerformance.com forum, in the Elite section (like having a Red Star in PBB).

http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/forum/
That's new info to me. Thanks for all your help so far.
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Old 01-03-2010, 05:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Best way to do any EFI swap with your own harness is to take the donor and first gut the entire thing. Of course before you do this, label with some painters tape what each connector goes to. Then pull all of the loom cover and electrical tape off. You may want to wear gloves for this one.

Then cut off any wires that have nothing to do with the EFI like lights, horn, etc. that is part of your donor harness. Then you can start at the beginning of the circuits and take the few wires that come off the fuse panel and ignition key. These will be hot all the time, hot in start, hot in start and run, etc.

After you label these, you can put them to your keyed switch or panel in your buggy.

If you feel the urge to remove any emissions equipment like EGR, you can just pull the VSV connector out of the harness, remove the one pin from the ECU connector, and clip where the VSV gets its power in the harness splice.

Once you get it to the point that you like it on the buggy with just wires wrapped where you want them, you can visually inspect it all for any damage, then do a full reloom and tape job.

I think this is the only proper way to do it as you can resize any wire lengths, check for damage, and remove circuits without snipping them. It tends to make things look nice like they were meant to be in the right spot.
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Old 01-03-2010, 05:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pietro View Post
Best way to do any EFI swap with your own harness is to take the donor and first gut the entire thing. Of course before you do this, label with some painters tape what each connector goes to. Then pull all of the loom cover and electrical tape off. You may want to wear gloves for this one.

Then cut off any wires that have nothing to do with the EFI like lights, horn, etc. that is part of your donor harness. Then you can start at the beginning of the circuits and take the few wires that come off the fuse panel and ignition key. These will be hot all the time, hot in start, hot in start and run, etc.

After you label these, you can put them to your keyed switch or panel in your buggy.

If you feel the urge to remove any emissions equipment like EGR, you can just pull the VSV connector out of the harness, remove the one pin from the ECU connector, and clip where the VSV gets its power in the harness splice.

Once you get it to the point that you like it on the buggy with just wires wrapped where you want them, you can visually inspect it all for any damage, then do a full reloom and tape job.

I think this is the only proper way to do it as you can resize any wire lengths, check for damage, and remove circuits without snipping them. It tends to make things look nice like they were meant to be in the right spot.
This is my plan. I figure it will be much easier to do with a harness already in place so I can see where all the connections are and label them accordingly before replacing it with the stripped down harness. As far as the wiring for the panel, I still have a lot of reading to do. It sounds like you know your shit so hopefully you'll keep an eye on this thread and keep it headed in the right direction. Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:06 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It will take some time. I've seen lots of swaps and electrical work where people just start snipping wires and never really figure out what is going on.

I just got done doing two and a half days worth of work this weekend getting my EFI harness done for my 16v engine swap in my samurai.

Some wires will need to be lengthened or shortened depending on where they go. It is much easier to do this with the entire harness stripped down to bare wires. Plus you can route them where you want them.

Pretty much all of it is going from the ECM to a sensor, actuator, fuse, or relay. There are only a handful of wires going to a straight or switched 12v source. Most of those are going into the fuse box or ignition key cylinder. But this is so much easier to see with a stripped harness.

Oh yeah, make sure you have a decent wiring diagram. This will help alot with connector pinouts, overall circuit diagrams, and wire colors. If you need me to pull diagrams off of Alldata, send me a PM.

Don't forget to be plentiful with grounds. You should have one going to the engine block/intake manifold, one going to the chassis, and one going from the battery to the engine and chassis. Never hurts to be slightly redundant with grounds. Plus spend the money on some good shrink tubing and weatherproof terminals. Don't use cheapo stuff from autozone or walmart. But a lot of them from Fastenal instead of two at a time from Napa. You'll go broke. Marine grade stuff is your friend.

If you need me to pull a diagram off of AllData for you, send me a PM.
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Last edited by Pietro; 01-03-2010 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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That's new info to me. Thanks for all your help so far.
I wish I could post that for you, but I agreed when I joined that section not to---I think it's ~$20 quarterly, so worthwhile for that info you need--and another benefit is very big giveaways and a relatively small number of Elite members. I won Davez' December giveaway--a HP 8" 5.29 3rd!!

I own a 91 intake/ECU/wiring on a 94 block 22RE that was stripped by Dustin Emick for his Toy buggy. It was about 95% of what I needed, so I had to learn a bit on the fly to finish wiring it for my FToy. I wish I knew everything he did (and a lot of what he's probably forgotten by now!) when he stripped my harness--so I'm still learning and sharing myself. I'd be really eager to do a buggy harness on my own now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pietro View Post
Oh yeah, make sure you have a decent wiring diagram. This will help alot with connector pinouts, overall circuit diagrams, and wire colors. If you need me to pull diagrams off of Alldata, send me a PM.
Best advice for any wiring project.
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Old 01-04-2010, 11:29 AM   #15 (permalink)
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As requested, wiring diagrams for a 91' 22RE truck. Hope this helps.









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Old 01-05-2010, 08:38 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Awesome, Pietro!
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:04 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks amigo. Very much appreciated. I'm getting a donor harness within the next few days so I should get some pics and tech started soon.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:06 PM   #18 (permalink)
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No problem.

Don't do wiring mods while drinking beer. You tend to get snip happy. There is always resoldering the following morning.

"How the fuck did I cut that wire"
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Man I wish this thread was around last month when I was dealing with the same thing.

Thanks for taking the time to do a write up
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:17 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I'm getting a lot of good feedback that is getting this thread headed in the right direction. Please add your $.02 since you've already done it. Stay tuned..
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:14 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I'm getting a lot of good feedback that is getting this thread headed in the right direction. Please add your $.02 since you've already done it. Stay tuned..
I suck at wiring and had a friend that is smart hook it up for me When I get the truck back home I will write down what wire went where because I know some of my wiring colors didnt match the diagrams we had found
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Old 01-27-2010, 01:43 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Do the same info apply to an 83 swap? I have a 95 donor truck swapping into my 83, should i just use the complete harness out the donor truck?

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Old 01-27-2010, 07:19 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Chris--there are earlier 22RE harnesses and later 22RE harnesses
I can't remember the break--87?

Use Iseloz' 22R to 22RE swap for early ones, Pietro's for later ones.

For a '95, definitely use the above!!
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:29 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Update/ pictures coming soon...
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:34 PM   #25 (permalink)
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