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Old 10-21-2010, 08:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Alternator white wire

I have a 82 4x4 toyota with a carbed 22r. The alternator has a cluster of three wires and a single thick white wire. I have read that this single white wire goes straight to the battery. I have verified this with my multi-meter. Now, not only does this white wire reach the battery but on the way it has been spliced into two times. An those two wires(also white) go to the fuse box located under the steering wheel off to the left . One supplying power to the 7.5 dome fuse and the other supplying power to the 15 tail fuse& 15 stop fuse. I am have not read anything about this and am wondering if it is a wire job from previous owner or standard toyota wiring.
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Standard Toyota wiring.....

White is a ground, many will be spliced into them via a metal crimp with black tape around it.
THIS IS INCORRECT!!!! White is power not ground as shown in the schematic that I posted
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Mr. Stubs i have the same question just been trying to search it out. so its a ground? Mine is ran straight to my positive battery terminal, Is it supposed to go to negative then?
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Mr Stubs...If white is ground in toyota wiring then holy chit. Prior owner or owners must have pawed around quite a lot. I have 2 white wires coming off the main wire harness that go straight to the positive terminal of the battery. The thinner white wire goes to the voltage regulator and the thicker white wire goes to the alternator. The funny thing is that the thinner white wire splices into the thicker white wire then a couple of inches up comes together with the B-R and R-L wire then to battery. I am trying to figure out what is blowing my fusable link at the positive battery terminal.
So as in my original post, the 2 wires spliced into the white wire that comes from the alternator.....not factory job.? Should not be like that?
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Whoah horse, whoah!


WHITE IS NOT GROUND!!!!!

I "Fd" that all up...


Just to prove it to you... (this is from a 85)


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Old 10-21-2010, 09:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thats exactly what I need Mr Stubs but for an 82. At the alternator on my 82 the cluster of 3 wires are W-B, green and yellow and the single wire is thick white. I look an look but cannot find. damit
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Sounds like you need to buy a haynes manual. Has a wire diagram in the back. Hours of fun.
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Old 10-22-2010, 10:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Its a good wire to upgrade part of the "big three" mine burned out at the connector near the fender wall.
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Old 10-23-2010, 01:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Did that today locked 4x4..wait, yesterday...its late

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Old 10-23-2010, 01:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Its a good wire to upgrade part of the "big three" mine burned out at the connector near the fender wall.
So far, all wires I have checked are in good shape.
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Old 10-23-2010, 01:55 AM   #11 (permalink)
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First, truck had hard time starting when turned off after running to normal temp. Replaced starter and replaced wire coming off starter cylinoid(high resistance). Started better when hot. Next day the relay under dash went out…replaced it. Truck starts fine…. then the “hard to start when hot” started again…But this time no start. Inline fuse at battery is busted. Replaced fuse. An all is good. I drive around a bit, enough to get it to 170 degrees then pulled up to my house turned it off. Turned it on, then off, then on then off. I thought, great, done and done. Truck is on…im looking at everything under the hood.. reach over an reved the engine at the carb and I noticed that my inline fuse, at the battery, gave way but my truck was still running. Turned off truck..had to put another fuse. It blew also (when reving engine). So I put inline fuses on all 4 wires( 15 amp on all but 30 amp on wire that goes to the alternator) to shorten my search for maybe a fouled wire. Now, alternator is not charging the battery! I checked for voltage at the red wire from the voltage regulator and it checked out, did checks on the alternator but the results showed that it needed to be replaced(checked volts at the L terminal—nothing, checked for continuity between terminals L and F—nothing). So of course I am going to take alternator in asap.
It’s one thing after another. I have very little experience with electrical stuff but am learning more an more. I am wondering if putting inline fuses on all wires could have somehow fudged my alternator or keeping it from putting a charge on the battery. I still can’t find what amp the original fusable link off the battery is and am now wondering if the 15 amp that I have on the rest of the wires is to high maybe should use a 10. I search an search. Some things I find, some manage to elude me. I did break down an buy a Haynes manual. It had no answers to my questions but has a lot of good info on diagnosing.
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Have you had any luck figuring out what the problem was? I am having pretty close to the same problem with my 83..
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:09 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Davez off road

Does this help any?


http://www.rocknroll4x4.com/gallery/...g_Diagrams.pdf
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:24 AM   #14 (permalink)
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OP, when your truck doesnt start what does it do? Does it clunk when you trun the key but not crank or does it crank slowly?
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:41 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Are you sure that you are putting the right amp fuse inline. I know that the alternator in the early pickups put out 40 amps. Im no wirring genious either but when you rev your truck up the alternator should be putting more juice which might blow the fuse. I also know old and bad wirring can have a lot of resistance which leads to fuses blowing. It would make sence that the 15 amp fuse would blow becuase they would be feeding your fuse box which I believe has up to 30 amp fuses in it.
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:59 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chase3194 View Post
Have you had any luck figuring out what the problem was? I am having pretty close to the same problem with my 83..
At this point....the alternator is out of the truck. Going to take it to get tested ASAP. If it tests good...then back to diagnosing. If it tests bad then I will replace it, put it back in an see what happends. Definatly will post up results when I can get to it.
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks TOYOTAPARTS. It looks to be the same diagram as in the Haynes Manual. I see the 3 different alternators. One of them, I think, should apply to me. But none of them match what I am seeing under the hood of my rig. I am refering to the colors of the wires and where they go. But again, my electrical skills are not so great. My reading of the diagram it self needs improving. Im working on it. I know where the wires coming from my battery are going . I need to transfer what I am seeing under the hood to whats on the diagram. I will just keep plugin at it till it works out. Thanks again for the diagrams.
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
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OP, when your truck doesnt start what does it do? Does it clunk when you trun the key but not crank or does it crank slowly?
The starting problems, for now, went away. Until i resolve the charging issue, I cannot run the truck enough to see if it has trouble starting. It was starting when hot when I ran into my fuse problem but until I run it enough i dont trully know.
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Old 10-24-2010, 05:03 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by locked 4x4 View Post
Are you sure that you are putting the right amp fuse inline. I know that the alternator in the early pickups put out 40 amps. Im no wirring genious either but when you rev your truck up the alternator should be putting more juice which might blow the fuse. I also know old and bad wirring can have a lot of resistance which leads to fuses blowing. It would make sence that the 15 amp fuse would blow becuase they would be feeding your fuse box which I believe has up to 30 amp fuses in it.
I am still looking for exactly what the amp rating is on the fusable link. When I find that out, i can go back to one fuse at the battery. For now, I have four in line fuses that are there for diagnostic purpose only. According to the Haynes manual, IF....IF I am understanding correctly, 81-84 have 2 types of alternators. Tirril type or IC type with the Tirril type having 40 amp output and the IC type having 55 or 60 amp output. So, yes 30 amp is to low no matter which alternator is in the truck. Its funny how I have had a 30 amp inline fuse for a bit with no problems. Mabe thats what has been ailing my truck all along. Causing all these dam problems. Not only do I not know what Amp the fusable link should be. I am not sure how it is constructed. I know it is a wire with the fuse built into it. Is the fuse built into the wire at the front of the wire and the back of the wire? I say that because I kept the fusable link wire in and cut the fuse off the front of the wire and put an inline 30 amp fuse in its place. When/if I get new alternator, I am definatly get the specs on it.
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Okay, so I looked a lot harder at the wire diagram(the one that TOYOTADAVE posted up). The alternator with the IC regulator separated from the alternator. An yes, the white wire off the alternator goes to the tail, stop and dome fuses along the way to the battery. So that answers the inital post question. Whats confusing is that......The diagram makes it look like the voltage regulator and the alternator come together as one then head to the battery. When on my truck they both have there own hot wire and when they reach the battery area...thats where the voltage regulator wire splices into the white alternator wire then to battery. Am I missing something?
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Old 10-26-2010, 09:19 PM   #21 (permalink)
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The alternator tested good. The next thing I am looking at on the wire diagram is the Charge Light Relay. I found a green relay labeled charge lamp relay on the passenger kick panel. It reads lamp instead of light but still one and the same (did ohm test and it read 000.0) The FAQs have how to diagnose relays. Gonna read up on it an post up findings.
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Old 10-29-2010, 02:28 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Okay. My alternator is putting a charge on the battery again. In the end... the fix was replacing the charge light bulb and replacing the voltage regulator. I had swaped out voltage regulators(spare in the garage) in the begining but because the charge light bulb was bad swaping voltage regulators did not make a difference. After replacing the charge light bulb the alternator was not charging the battery, after thinking it thru, I decided to put in the spare voltage regulator back in and bam...alternator started charging the battery. I had thought the charge light relay was the culprit because turning the key to the on position(not having turned the engine over), from what I understand, I should see all my dash lights turn on. But not all would. So, I took off the relay and experimented used jumper wires and found the dash lights will come on. But then they stay on(brake and charge lights). I then put the relay back on and the brake and charge light will not light up at all. But my alternator is charging the battery. Gonna look for a charge light relay at the bone yard cuz I sure as hell am not going to pay the hight price for a new one. Thanks everyone for your input.
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