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Old 04-02-2012, 10:21 PM   #51 (permalink)
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been a while since ive posted anything. Recently got out of the Marines and going to school now. Been saving up and collecting parts.

I got a 94 chevy 4.3 CPI. Had it completely rebuilt. bored, honed, decked, polished, valve job. new pistons, rings, bearing, cam, lifters, blah blah.

Picked up an SM465 and 205 with 32 spline input/output. Lakewood scatter sheild bellhousing and centerforce dual friction clutch.

Im using a stock flywheel for the 4.3 and the big 12" clutch disk.
converting the sm465 manual bellhousing to hydraulic clutch.

more pics will come tomorrow, but this is how the motor will sit for the most part.
just enough room for the stock radiator and a taurus fan

.

ill have some more pictures tomorrow
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:53 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Made my own motor mounts out of some 2" x .250 DOM, the bushings are from Ruff Stuff, and the frame side mount is 3" x 3" .250 wall. 9/16" through bolt.




Got a rebuilt SM465 and NP205 with 32 spline shafts. I will twin stick it before I bolt it up.


The 94 4.3 CPI I completely rebuilt.


Engine bay all cleaned up and painted flat black, although im going to finish it up with gloss black. I think it will clean up better that way.
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:54 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Dana 60 shafts, stock inners, 10 Factory 35 spline cromo stubs, RPM Flanges


The RPM flanges and 10 Factory shafts were super tight. I had to "tap" them on pretty hard and pull them off with a puller. Did that a couple times to "loosen" them up. Its still pretty much a press fit.


Cut and flared the chevy power steering pump line with the toyota nut to fit in the 4x4 IFS box I scored at pick n pull.



For the brakes I got a Chevy 1 1/4" master cylinder for a 76 1 ton.
I will be using a Wilwood Adjustable rear proportioning valve.
Also Im just reflaring the toyota lines with new fitting to fit the new master

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Old 04-03-2012, 10:19 PM   #54 (permalink)
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I will be running dual Batteries and dual alternators. In place of the A/C im puting a CS144 Alt from a Cadilac pumpin 120 Amps. 3 studs come out of it that ive never seen before on any alternator. Ive seached quite a bit and cant find anything about what they do.

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Old 04-09-2012, 12:00 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Finished up the axle for the most part. just need to cut the stock knuckles and grind the calipers down to clear the wheels.

Also got the motor mounted up and sitting in there.

Im running the stock 4.3 radiator and taurus fan. not much clearance but itll work.

Painted the engine bay gloss black. I think I like it. not sure. whatever.











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Old 04-09-2012, 06:12 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Looks real good. I paint just about everything with rustolium satin, It cleans up like gloss without the shine.
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Last edited by Redfin; 04-09-2012 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:50 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Looks real good. I paint just about everything with rustolium satin, It cleans up like gloss without the shine.
Ill definitely give that a try.
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:11 AM   #58 (permalink)
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I done fucked up getting all pro 6" leafs for the rear.
This thing is way too damn tall right now and im debating how i should go about lowering it.
Right now its about 29" to the frame. with 37's and tons.
Options:
1. Sell the 6" leafs and buy some 3" leaves so i dont have to cut off and move mounts.
2. french in the existing mounts, move the shackle hangar to the back side of the square tube/bumper, and take 1 or 2 leaves out.

Im thinking option 2, but its going to push out my wheelbase further than it already is. Also the force applied to the hangar will not be up into the frame but soley relying on the welds connecting the hangar to frame/bumper tube.

what height should I be shooting for?
I dont want to go so low as to be resting on the bumpstops in the front, I would say about 6" uptravel but i know thats probably pushing it
What ya think?
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Old 04-13-2012, 12:23 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Im gonna shoot for 26" frame height using the all pro 6" leafs. french the shit out of it and take 2 leafs out. hopefully that will put me at 26" with a full trail ready load w/ tranny/tcase in.
even if 26" is a little tall for a yota on 37's. That will give me decent uptravel with the tons. I should be alright with the 70" wms to wms
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:10 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I'd pull the leafs out first and see where sits.
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Old 04-20-2012, 01:36 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Finished the twin stick on the 205.



and got these in from DIYBEADLOCKS






Tranny and tcase going in this weekend. I would like it be as flat belly as possible so some tunnel reworking might be in the works.
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:25 PM   #62 (permalink)
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put the trans and tcase up today. the bottom of the mount sits about 2 inches below the bottom of the frame. the tcase sits a little lower than I would like, but oh well maybe ill get a clocking ring someday.

had to cut up the tunnel


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Old 04-24-2012, 07:16 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Pretty sweet build! that trans shifter seems pretty far forward.
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:54 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Pretty sweet build! that trans shifter seems pretty far forward.
The sm465 is a very short trans. Also I have no body lift and the motor is as far back as it can be with out cutting the firewall. I even pounded the trans tunnel out to move it back as much as I could.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:40 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Going to have to get creative with that shifter lol. Looking forward to more
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:42 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Made a trans tunnel with a removable top in case I need to get in there or pull the trans.

Pulled apart the ceiling and headliner. Ill get to insulating everything soon.

Cleaned up the cab, painted the firewall and inside of the roof.



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Old 04-09-2013, 11:57 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Shot of the motor
I made a bracket for the other alternator, some brackets to hold in the radiator, and painted some stuff.



Last edited by shomsky462; 04-10-2013 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:24 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Sweet build. How did you get that glue crap that holds the headliner to the roof off of it? That shit is a pain in the ass.
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:49 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Sweet build. How did you get that glue crap that holds the headliner to the roof off of it? That shit is a pain in the ass.
It was definitely a pain in the ass. I used a wire wheel, gently used a flap disk, then an orbital sander.
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:14 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Took the cab off the frame for better access to the cuttout I had to make in the frame for clearance of the driver side exhaust manifold.

I had to get an Astro van driver side manifold in order to clear the clutch slave.

Clean up the frame where the cab sits.

You can barely see the crossmember I made. Its 1/2" plate I heated and bent to clear the driveshaft and the upper link for the driver side.






Last edited by shomsky462; 04-10-2013 at 08:17 PM.
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:34 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Just called FOA for some shock and spring rate advice. They advised that i run 250(18")/150(14") on my 16" remote res. coilovers up front. I told him I was running a first gen with all 1 ton stuff, 4.3, sm465, 205, 60/14 and winch. He said the weight difference between the stock toy and mine wasnt significant enough to change anything around. With calculators and weight guessing i came up with about 250/175. Thats with a guess of an unsprung corner weight of 950 lbs. Im thinking about buying the 250 mains right now and using them to determine what tender I will need.

Am I on the right track? What do you all suggest?
-Shomsky
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:08 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Did some fuel line re-working.

The aluminum fittings adapt the GM fuel pressure/return lines to AN to push on. 90 deg.




Last edited by shomsky462; 06-03-2013 at 12:47 AM.
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:19 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Took a break from working on the rig and was inside when my step dad and I heard 2 very loud explosions that shook the house. Went outside saw this a couple of houses down:
No one was inside. Looked like some kind of garage fire. It makes you rethink how your garage is setup...




anyways I notched the frame to clear the driver exhaust manifold.
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:12 PM   #74 (permalink)
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why dont you just SPUA the rear? save alot of work and time, and you will lower it quite a bit and still prolly have some pretty decent up travel
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:29 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Hmmm, Thats actually a really good idea. I didnt really even consider that. The only thing I would be concerned with is the u bolts pointing down. I suppose i could just cut them short and make some kind of gaurd?
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