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Old 07-08-2017, 09:58 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher.h View Post
Impressive work
Thank you sir.



I fully welded in the bump cans, lower mounts and further braced the track bar mount on the axle side. I was going to further reinforce the frame side track bar/bump can mount but figured this would be enough. Anyone think I should further reinforce the bracket? maybe gusset it somehow?


Pics of the progress:






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Old 07-13-2017, 05:06 PM   #127 (permalink)
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It has been 6 years since this rig has held its own weight with its own front suspension.

I just have the main springs holding it up right now until I decide what tender springs I need. The mains are 250 lbs, so I was thinking a 175 tender?

Here are some pictures of the fully painted and assembled front setup:






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Old 07-15-2017, 06:26 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Great work man sub'ed
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Old 01-20-2018, 01:36 AM   #129 (permalink)
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Started working on the rig again. Im going to push through and get this thing going by the end of the year. I cant believe how much shit ive gotten done on this thing yet there is still a lot of work to be done. Although I believe the hardest work (suspension front and rear, motor, tranny, tcase) is behind me. Now I need to focus on the cage, bed, interior, then fuel, brakes, exhaust.

Im really not a fan of how exo cages look, I also dont want to turn my rig into a complete raisin. So I decided I was going to make an exo as tight and as structurally sound as I could while also somewhat following the body lines. My buddy gave me some advice that I should use a tubing roller to follow said lines. So I went and bought the ol harbor freight special, with a coupon of course. bought some dies from SWAG Offroad, made a mount for the hitch on my truck and my bench in the garage, and got to rolling.

I rolled out a 15 foot piece for the B hoop, got it to match the roof contour, bent it where I wanted, and boom, B hoop. Made a basic bitch X brace with a horizontal bar and bent the uppers a tiny bit to clear the rear windows.

This is what I came up with. Ive never done anything with a cage before and this is definitely the most tube Ive ever coped. Please feel free to give me pointers, what I should or shouldnt do, and any ideas are more than welcome.

btw, rolling 1.75 x .120 DOM manually, with the ol captains wheel is a workout. Im excited for the day I roll out some tube to match the fenderwell/tire contour. Ill probably get jacked up on some pre workout and go to town.






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Old 01-20-2018, 01:47 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Next step was the sliders. Im mostly finished with them. The ends of the two middle supporting tubes will get 1/8th" scab plates. I will also be adding a some plate with upside down dimple dies for a kind of traction plate where you would step onto them.

I also tied the pinch seam into the sliders to spread out any impacts and connect the body to the tube structure more to prevent too much flex between the body and cage.

The sliders were warping from welding way more than I thought they would, I didnt clamp them or anything, decided to just go with the natural curve it created and in my opinion, it looks fairly decent.

Some pics of the sliders: (made from 1.5x1.5x.188, 1x1x.120, 3/4"x1/8th" angle, and 1.75x.120 DOM)





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Old 01-20-2018, 01:51 AM   #131 (permalink)
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Also, heres a "spark plug people" I made as a gift for my step dad. His body is a spark plug but the apron is blocking the view.

"Grillin Bill"
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Old 01-20-2018, 08:16 AM   #132 (permalink)
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This is fucking rad dude!!!

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Also, heres a "spark plug people" I made as a gift for my step dad. His body is a spark plug but the apron is blocking the view.

"Grillin Bill"
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:03 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Finished the sliders/steps. I decided I wanted the mexican big rig look. So I got a set of dimple dies from RuffStuff and made some grippy step panels. Im going to incorporate them into a lot more stuff.

I have a bunch of random stainless sheet metal so I decided to use it for these panels, this is 18 ga. 300 series. Then for some reason I started sanding and kept sanding, so up to a 1200 wet sand, this is what I got.

For the paint: couple of coats of rubberized undercoating ,Rustoleum. then satin black, Ace brand. then Semi-Gloss Clear, Rustoleum.

Also, that little deburring tool is the business. I used a hole cutter then that little tool cleans up the edges of the holes. It makes real nice ribbons, cuts extremely well.







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Old 02-13-2018, 04:35 AM   #134 (permalink)
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Very clean work. What size dimple dies did you get from Ruffstuff? I want to incorporate some go-fast holes in my next build.
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Old 02-13-2018, 02:29 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Very clean work. What size dimple dies did you get from Ruffstuff? I want to incorporate some go-fast holes in my next build.
I have the medium set, 1.25", 1.50", and 1.75". I got this set because it seems to be the most universal for my needs, and for the quality I dont think their price can be beat. Ill probably get the small set soon to make step panels, gas, brake, clutch petals, and just pepper them with little dimples for grip etc... Eventually Id like to get all of them.

although the ruff stuff ones dont have a hole in the middle to use a bolt to press them together, so youd have to use a press. which will limit the size plate or panel you can dimple, depending on the size of the panel you can fit in the press.
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Old 02-13-2018, 02:35 PM   #136 (permalink)
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Very clean work. What size dimple dies did you get from Ruffstuff? I want to incorporate some go-fast holes in my next build.
Also, if you do get some dimple dies I would highly recommend that little deburring tool. Theres a bunch of different types and brands but I think the one I got is pretty nice. About $15 on amazon.

I used a dremel with a drum sander on the inside of the holes to get rid of the teeth/chatter marks from the hole cutter, then the deburring tool to create a really clean edge on both sides. I can imagine the deburring tool would also help with extending the life of the dimple dies so its not pressing into a sharp edge everytime, also grease.
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Old 05-13-2018, 11:58 PM   #137 (permalink)
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Been working on the rig here and there when I get a chance while going to school. I just recently found out I got accepted to Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo for mechanical engineering so I will be starting in September. My plan is to work on the rig full time during the summer. Many updates are to come.

Ive been busy doing some body work, sanding, and more sanding. I need to keep reminding myself that this is a rock crawler.

The plan is to paint it the original Toyota Beige color with some retro decals.





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Old 05-14-2018, 12:09 AM   #138 (permalink)
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Got to working on the tranny tunnel. Made with 3/4" x 3/4" x .080 wall rect. tube and 16 gauge sheet.

I got a tilt steering column from an 84 chevy s10 and it seems like it should work well with a few modifications.

The next step is to finish up the 205 twin stick linkage and shifters.



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Old 05-14-2018, 05:24 AM   #139 (permalink)
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congrats on getting into cal poly
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Old 05-14-2018, 02:09 PM   #140 (permalink)
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congrats on getting into cal poly
Thanks man. Its been quite a long journey just to get to this point. Now for another 3 years.
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Old 05-15-2018, 06:44 AM   #141 (permalink)
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nice work man
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:10 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Ive been slaving away on the rig lately. I have a 4 month summer and my plan is to crank away on this thing and finish it before school starts in mid September.

Ill be making regular updates as ill be working on it almost everyday.

Ive finished up the tranny tunnel, minus the top covers which will bolt on with rivet nuts inserted into the square tube.

The T-Case shifters are made from #6 rebar, 3/8" right and left hand thread rod ends, and various nylon bushings and hardware etc...





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Old 06-07-2018, 07:21 PM   #143 (permalink)
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Then I got to working on the steering column. I picked up a tilt column from a 94 s-10 from a buddy. Made a few modifications and it fits in there really nice!

I had to keep the end of the shaft from flopping around so I got a shouldered bronze bushing/bearing and had to sand the OD down by chucking it up in a drill and spinning it against my vertical belt grinder/sander. The bearing I used is a 1" ID and 2" OD. worked out well. No slop at all and should be fairly stout.

I also used the steering wheel that came with the truck when I bought it. Someone had welded a collar on it that fit the toyota shaft and it was incredibly boogered on there. So after a shit load of grinding and sanding and a little bit of polishing, shes not so bad and I really like this wheel.







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Old 06-07-2018, 07:33 PM   #144 (permalink)
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Next step was to mount the seats. They are as far back as they can be with a good amount of lean to them. Made from 16 ga., 1/8th" plate, and some 1" x 2" x .083 wall rect. tube.

Ive been borrowing my buddies mig welder to glue in some of this stupid sheet metal. Sheet metal sucks.






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Old 06-07-2018, 07:41 PM   #145 (permalink)
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There were a couple of quarter size rust holes in the floor of the back of the cab. I decided I really didnt want to patch them properly with sheet metal so I smeared some silicon into some carbon fiber and patched it that way. My thought was that it will seal pretty well and flex without cracking. Ive since smeared even more silicon onto it. Seams like it should hold up.

I also sealed all of the seams in the tranny tunnel inside and out with the same silicon. I still need to spray the bottom with undercoating or bed liner or something.

I got a garage fridge recently so now I can be more efficient by not having to go inside to get beer.



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Old 06-08-2018, 08:29 AM   #146 (permalink)
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looking great, man congrats on getting into Cal Poly, as well
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Old 06-11-2018, 04:33 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Very Nice Work.
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Old 06-12-2018, 06:04 AM   #148 (permalink)
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Most excellent build shomsky

Most excellent
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Old 06-12-2018, 07:19 AM   #149 (permalink)
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How have I missed this build?? Very nice
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Old 06-23-2018, 08:04 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Ive been working on the cage the past couple of days. Lots of rolling, bending, and notching. Messed up a couple pieces of tube but I was able to use those in other spots.

Im trying to keep the cage as tight to the body as I can without taking too much time. Notching into a corner on bends on rolled tube can take some serious time to get it tight.

Im not incredibly thrilled with how some of it came out but oh well, I have to get this thing done at some point.

Ive never built a cage before so any input would be much appreciated.









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