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Old 06-23-2018, 09:17 PM   #151 (permalink)
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looking great, man congrats on getting into Cal Poly, as well
Thanks, I am very much looking forward to it.

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Very Nice Work.
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Most excellent build shomsky

Most excellent
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How have I missed this build?? Very nice
Thanks dudes!
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:08 AM   #152 (permalink)
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Got the cowl bar in today along with the windshield V. The passenger wiper is dead center and its in the way of the bar going across. I decided to just run the driver wiper. Ill just Rain-X the shit out of the windshield or something.

There is plating where the windshield support V is so that if I ever have to replace the windshield I can just cut out the bars and wont compromise the integrity of the tubes running across the windshield/roof.

Tomorrow Ill work on the tubes that will shoot through the fenders to whatever front bumper thing I decide to run.





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Old 06-28-2018, 05:14 AM   #153 (permalink)
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Thats one of the best windshield cross bars i have ever seen. Most stick out waaay far away and look like ass. Slick work.
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Old 06-28-2018, 08:48 AM   #154 (permalink)
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That looks great, but how are you going take the fenders off if you ever need to ?
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Old 06-28-2018, 12:52 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Thats one of the best windshield cross bars i have ever seen. Most stick out waaay far away and look like ass. Slick work.
Thanks! it came out pretty nice and it was the first try. I definitely didnt rush it.
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:05 PM   #156 (permalink)
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That looks great, but how are you going take the fenders off if you ever need to ?
short answer: sawzall

long: the plan is to disassemble the cage, as it is only barely tacked together right now. Then paint, then glass, reassemble the cage, weld the top, lift off the body/frame just enough to weld the bottoms of the notches. Drop it back down, weld to frame. make a cut out in the fender where the A-pillar tube can pass through it, install painted fender then replace the piece I cut with something.

Also, down the road when I smash the shit out of it I probably wont care about removing it at all for any reason until it becomes a full on LS powered buggy.
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:32 PM   #157 (permalink)
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That makes sense, I did notice things are only tacked. At some point I'll be doing one for my '89, The rolled tubing looks much better, but I hate spending the money on a 1-time project. The damn DOM tubing is expensive enough !
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:56 PM   #158 (permalink)
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That makes sense, I did notice things are only tacked. At some point I'll be doing one for my '89, The rolled tubing looks much better, but I hate spending the money on a 1-time project. The damn DOM tubing is expensive enough !
I have the harbor freight tube roller with swag off road dies (1.75" tube)

get a 25% off coupon at the freight. it makes the roller super cheap and it comes with 3 dies, 1" 1.5" and 2".

Ive been rolling all my tube by hand so far. Rolling DOM is a workout for sure, but I have a very limited income right now so manual rolling it is. Plus Ive always wanted some popeye like forearms.
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Old 06-28-2018, 04:20 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Hah, I may just have to try that. The Toy roof is so rounded, straight bars look really out of place.
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Old 06-30-2018, 11:37 PM   #160 (permalink)
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I needed to mount the winch before I made the front bumper and other connecting bars.

I had to cut back that bottom front clip support to make room for the winch, then boogered some 14 gauge to it, ground the boogers down. I got some rusty piece of 2x2 .120 wall square tube from a friend to make the other mounting point for the winch.

The main frame is 2x3x.188, so I probably could have just drilled the 3/8th holes through the frame but I decided to sleeve them and weld the sleeves in. Probably unnecessary, but whats wrong with a little overkill.

Started to work on the stinger and other supporting bars. I need to get, or make, an anti-spring back device for the bender. bending that much of an angle with DOM by hand is rough





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Old 08-14-2018, 10:34 PM   #161 (permalink)
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This is what I came up with for the front bumper and fairlead mount as well as the fender tubes. It will get fully welded in after I take apart all the exo pieces and paint the rig.

I made some pedals, had to completely remake the gas pedal and linkage, moved the brake pedal to the other side of the steering column. Then beat the hell out of the bulging fender well from the inside to clear the clutch pedal because it had to be shifted over about 6 inches to the left so it didnt interfere with the brake.

I wanted to paint it the original toyota beige but now I'm leaning more towards a rattle can silver or gray now because of time and money constraints. Plus I have to remember its a rock crawler.







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Old 08-14-2018, 11:04 PM   #162 (permalink)
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I got this radiator for free from a buddy, 2 row, all aluminum, brand new. It barely fits, but it fits. Im still trying to figure out what Im going to do about the upper side of the mount. Its sitting on rubber bushing, I'll do the same for the top as well some how.

I also had this stop sign I paid $10 for and it was the perfect size for my template. So why not.

My radiator overflow is this mount I made a while ago at my community college. It has some pretty big rubber bushings between its mounting points so hopefully that absorbs enough vibration and the bottle wont break.

Fuel lines are plumbed to the rear of the cab, along with the filter.

Rear brake line is plumbed all the way to the rear of the cab.







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Old 08-14-2018, 11:33 PM   #163 (permalink)
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Front brakes fully plumbed. I had to use quite a few fittings to make all this work. Mostly all Earls fittings and hose etc.

I had to sand down the spacer for the brake booster in a kind of wedge shape, to shift the whole unit so it would clear the coilover hoop. When I made the hoop I knew it was going to be close but not that close.

I had to get a 1/2" banjo fitting/bolt for the front port on the master so it was flush enough. Then some fitting called an O-ring boss for the rear port, then goes to the rear proportioning valve.

I also got the clutch fully plumbed, bled it and it works great.
The Master is part number CM39627 its from a 1986 Land cruiser, with a 3/4" bore.

The slave is CS37815 It is from a 88-91 Chevy according to dorman. Im sure it goes on many other things. It has a 13/16" bore size.


















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Old 08-15-2018, 10:06 AM   #164 (permalink)
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uber sano shomsky....attention to detail is off the charts for a trail rig.
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Old 08-15-2018, 02:11 PM   #165 (permalink)
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Do you happen to have a parts list for your brake plumbing? Very similar to what Iím planning for mine.
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Old 08-15-2018, 05:40 PM   #166 (permalink)
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uber sano shomsky....attention to detail is off the charts for a trail rig.
thank you. I will be attempting to make this street legal. We shall see though.
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Old 08-15-2018, 06:02 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Do you happen to have a parts list for your brake plumbing? Very similar to what Iím planning for mine.
fittings and lines etc:

xrp # 494703 -3 10mm x 1.5 banjo bolt short (for the calipers)
earls # 600803 -3 30 degree banjo
earls # 600003 -3 teflon stainless steel braided line
earls # 600103 -3 teflon straight fitting
xrp # 402603 -3 an to 3/8 x 24 inverted flare adapter (for use with a retainer tab and clip)

the -3 an to 3/8 x 24 adapter goes with a 5/8 retainer tab that I got from ruff stuff.

I used the standard 3/16" double flared (inverted flare) hard line with the 3/8 x 24 ends. I double flared the ends I needed to with a fairly inexpensive Lisle brand double flaring tool.

Let me know if there are any other numbers or info I can get for you
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Old 08-15-2018, 06:17 PM   #168 (permalink)
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Thanks. Youíre the man!
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Old 08-15-2018, 07:10 PM   #169 (permalink)
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Thanks. Youíre the man!
No problem. I forgot to say that pretty much all the fittings and hose is from anplumbing.com
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Old 08-27-2018, 04:53 PM   #170 (permalink)
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I made a new adapter for the brake booster and master cylinder. I needed to push out the master a little bit and the old adapter was shit.

My buddy cut a piece of 5/8" aluminum on a water jet at Cal Poly. Then I cleaned it up some, sanded it, and counter sank the holes to accept the bolts.

I also had to mount the charcoal canister.

Mounted the ARB compressor as well.








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Old 08-27-2018, 05:08 PM   #171 (permalink)
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Next step is to bed line the interior with Raptor Liner this week. Then take the cage apart, prep for paint, and shoot it this weekend.

I'm leaning towards the Rustoleum Professional 7771 Gloss Sand. My buddy is going to hopefully come over and help me out with mixing and painting because I've never really messed with it before. Should be an interesting adventure.

If anyone has any advice on paint or guns or anything like that let me know. I know almost nothing when it comes to paint.

Trying to keep the total cost of painting under $100.
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Old 08-27-2018, 08:14 PM   #172 (permalink)
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Your sheet metal work is amazing I love the rolled tubing, i'm thinking of trying to remake the factory fender flares on my 98 4 runner with rolling 2x2 and 12ga to the body. Looks awesome man
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Old 08-27-2018, 10:57 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Your sheet metal work is amazing I love the rolled tubing, i'm thinking of trying to remake the factory fender flares on my 98 4 runner with rolling 2x2 and 12ga to the body. Looks awesome man
Thanks man. Im getting better with sheet metal only because its more of a necessity for some things. But I think the more I work with it the more I dont like it. I pretty much dont have any sheet metal tools.

Your build is coming together real nice like!
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Old 08-28-2018, 06:28 PM   #174 (permalink)
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Awesome build, looking forward to seeing it complete.
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Old 08-30-2018, 06:39 AM   #175 (permalink)
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Top notch notching.....
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