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Old 04-15-2011, 10:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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22RE Tune Up Tips

I've been searching around the forums trying to find some info on problems or tips for doing a basic tune up on my 22re. I see tons of "my truck isn't running weell" and im not goign to look through every single one looking for basic info for a normal engine, not someones particular problem. I'm talking everyday tuneup things like plugs and wires. For plugs, the service manual is saying to gap plugs to 0.031" and DRM wrote in the FAQ that for more power to do a few things with timing and fuel and to gap plugs to 0.048". Anybody had luck gapping to anything other than 0.031? Are there any other tips for good or bad plugs to use? I remember a Ranger I had took better to certain types of plugs due to the ignition system, not sure if thats applicable here. Any other tips for small tweaks to get a neglected engine smoothed out a little?
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Replace the old shitty vacuum hose with new stuff to eliminate any vacuum leaks.
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Adjust the valves then do a compression check to see if the engine is still in good mechanical shape. If so, run some Techron fuel additive through a couple consecutive tanks, (just change the oil afterwards). Check for vacuum leaks, and run the resistance test on the AFM. This is a 20+ year old engine, it's likely to have a few things worn out.
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Make sure your battery terminals are in good condition, make sure all four engine grounds are in good shape.. if youre doing a cap and rotor check the magnetic pickup and adjust if needed, Replace your fuel filter if its been forever, new or clean air fliter, inspect for vacuum leaks, adjust TPS if needed, O2 sensor if ur rich, etc etc..
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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use dealer tune up parts.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I've been searching around the forums trying to find some info on problems or tips for doing a basic tune up on my 22re. I see tons of "my truck isn't running weell" and im not goign to look through every single one looking for basic info for a normal engine, not someones particular problem. I'm talking everyday tuneup things like plugs and wires. For plugs, the service manual is saying to gap plugs to 0.031" and DRM wrote in the FAQ that for more power to do a few things with timing and fuel and to gap plugs to 0.048". Anybody had luck gapping to anything other than 0.031? Are there any other tips for good or bad plugs to use? I remember a Ranger I had took better to certain types of plugs due to the ignition system, not sure if thats applicable here. Any other tips for small tweaks to get a neglected engine smoothed out a little?
For a "neglected" engine, there are a bunch of things that I'd want to check and replace as part of "neglected engine" tune up if I didn't know the history of the neglected maintenance.

For a healthy stock 22, just doing the factory recommended tune-ups, with recommended tune-up specs will work well. All the other backyard ideas may or may not work. These engines were designed by the brightest auto engineers on the planet. Keeping these engines in good tune will keep them happy. There is a logical reason why the gap for spark plugs is spec'd at .031" and not .030", not .029", not .035", not .048". Some people have had better luck with certain spark plug brands. I've tried a half a dozen different manufacturers over the years (I'm on my 4th Toy truck) and can't really tell any difference. I'm running a set of NGK iridiums now just to see how they do. I've never put in a set on any vehicile, so I was curious. I've got about 15K miles on that set and I'm due to pull the plugs for the first inspection. They have been in for about 10 months, and my 1986 22RE is my daily driver.


You are probably not going to get much more out of a stock 22RE by gapping plugs bigger, and you might cause an idle issue. A good tune up for me is plugs, cap & rotor, plug wires. I like to set the valve lash at 7-11.. just a tad tighter, I don't like the rockers clattering and it makes the cam "look a little bigger". I check the ignition timing and I will adjust to avoid pinging. I run a can of Berryman Chemtool B12 in one full tank about every 3 months. Unless you have other issues with throttle response, idle or performance, then checking components and sensors may be good practice, but could be a waste of time.


Vacuum leaks can be a real problem. These engines are not happy with vacuum leaks! Make sure the clamps on big air tube from the AFM box to the throttle body are tight and no cracks in the tube. Replacing the PVC and the rubber grommet on the rocker cover is a good idea. One sensor that is very important for good performance is the TPS, it needs to be in spec and is fairly easily tested with a DVOM.

A good working O2 sensor is also important for good "tune". I'm running a Bosch right now, but I'm going to install a Denso during my next "tune-up".

Well, this post is probably too long. But, that's just my worthless opinion.

gNARLS.

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Old 04-16-2011, 12:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Gnarls that is awesome. That was the kind of info I was looking for. Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-16-2011, 12:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Recommend all NGK or Denso parts, tune up to factory specs. Would be a really good idea to pull the intake off, dip it clean, and reinstall. While it's out, soak the injectors in Sea Foam, then reinstall with new O-rings, etc.
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Old 04-16-2011, 04:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Adjust the valves then do a compression check to see if the engine is still in good mechanical shape. If so, run some Techron fuel additive through a couple consecutive tanks, (just change the oil afterwards). Check for vacuum leaks, and run the resistance test on the AFM. This is a 20+ year old engine, it's likely to have a few things worn out.
Good suggestions...

Roc Dic has been here for quite awhile and knows his stuff. He used to be the "Poop Monitor" on this board, but I haven't been here for awhile so I don't know what he's doing now. Roc Dic.... what's new??

I like Berryman Chemtool B-12, but Techron will probably do fine. Lot's of folks rave about SeaFoam, but it the same chemical as Berryman and Berryman costs about 1/2 as much. I've run two consecutive tanks with "cleaner", so if you do, don't be surprised if you get a little blue smoke from the exhaust on the second tank. And YES, Roc Dic is right, change the oil and filter right after that tank is empty!! The cleaner will deposit crap in the oil. Doing a compression check is always a good idea. If you run a resistance check on the AFM, using a simple DVM may not show the correct numbers, a DVM is not fast enough to capture the signal on the sweep test. I've done this test a number of times on my old unit and then on a brand new unit and they check the same. Unless you have a miss or detect an issue with throttle response, the AFM is probably OK.

Just my worthless opinion!

gNARLs

Last edited by Gnarly4X; 04-16-2011 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 04-16-2011, 04:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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... Would be a really good idea to pull the intake off, dip it clean, and reinstall. While it's out, soak the injectors in Sea Foam, then reinstall with new O-rings, etc.
Although not a bad idea, be prepared!!.. .this is a big job. Do some research if you haven't done this before.


While I'm thinking about it.... There are 8 ports (not counting the TPS) on the inside (facing the rocker cover) of the throttle body. It's a good idea to remove what is screwed into the throttle body and clean the ports. These ports tend to get carboned up over time. Inspect for any cracked rubber tubing.

Edit: Of course removing and cleaning the throttle body is a good idea.

Just my worthless opinion.

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Old 04-17-2011, 08:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Gave it a little look this weekend. Ran a can of seafoam through the brake booster line and it definitely made some smoke on me. The replaced plugs, wires, can and rotor. Seems to have a little more mid range torque. Found one of my plugs with the end smushed, not sure how long its been like that or how it happened....either way, not good.

The real problem im realizing is a tapping/knocking that I have developed over the last few trips. It has gotten worse over time. I swapped for delo last oil change to see if it would quiet it down at all and it didnt seem to make a difference. It sounds like top end, so I'm going to try to pull at least the valve cover to check on it if theres anything abnormal. I have not idea if the timing chain has ever been changed on this truck....any way to check without pulling it, whats the usual service life?
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Gave it a little look this weekend. Ran a can of seafoam through the brake booster line and it definitely made some smoke on me. The replaced plugs, wires, can and rotor. Seems to have a little more mid range torque. Found one of my plugs with the end smushed, not sure how long its been like that or how it happened....either way, not good.

The real problem im realizing is a tapping/knocking that I have developed over the last few trips. It has gotten worse over time. I swapped for delo last oil change to see if it would quiet it down at all and it didnt seem to make a difference. It sounds like top end, so I'm going to try to pull at least the valve cover to check on it if theres anything abnormal. I have not idea if the timing chain has ever been changed on this truck....any way to check without pulling it, whats the usual service life?
I think the stock chain should last at least around 120,000-150,000 miles. As mentioned for most stuff stick with Denso, especially for O2 sensors. Check the butterfly on the TB, and while you're doing that shine a light down into the intake manifold/plenum; you might be quite disgusted.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Gave it a little look this weekend. Ran a can of seafoam through the brake booster line and it definitely made some smoke on me. The replaced plugs, wires, can and rotor. Seems to have a little more mid range torque. Found one of my plugs with the end smushed, not sure how long its been like that or how it happened....either way, not good.

The real problem im realizing is a tapping/knocking that I have developed over the last few trips. It has gotten worse over time. I swapped for delo last oil change to see if it would quiet it down at all and it didnt seem to make a difference. It sounds like top end, so I'm going to try to pull at least the valve cover to check on it if theres anything abnormal. I have not idea if the timing chain has ever been changed on this truck....any way to check without pulling it, whats the usual service life?
A plug end smooshed is a bad sign. My buddies Isuzu trooper had a smashed plug and when we pulled the head the valve had totally fucked the valve seat up and tore into the piston pretty good. Ended up needing a full rebuild and a new head. The plug should not be smashed at all.

I just rebuilt my 22-re because it had never had a bottom end done (297k miles and was worn pretty good). I ended up going in because the HG had a slight coolant leak and oil leak. After the rebuild it's leaking oil again by the #4 piston the outisde of the block Had the block and head decked and everything was torqued to spec....looks like I'll be going back in AGAIN
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:51 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Gave it a little look this weekend. Ran a can of seafoam through the brake booster line and it definitely made some smoke on me. The replaced plugs, wires, can and rotor. Seems to have a little more mid range torque. Found one of my plugs with the end smushed, not sure how long its been like that or how it happened....either way, not good.

The real problem im realizing is a tapping/knocking that I have developed over the last few trips. It has gotten worse over time. I swapped for delo last oil change to see if it would quiet it down at all and it didnt seem to make a difference. It sounds like top end, so I'm going to try to pull at least the valve cover to check on it if theres anything abnormal. I have not idea if the timing chain has ever been changed on this truck....any way to check without pulling it, whats the usual service life?
End smushed?? ...Are you talkin' about the electrode on the spark plug?

Did you adjust the valve lash? Is the tapping/knocking sound loudest at cold start or after driving it for awhile?

You can do somewhat of a visual check of the t-chain by removing the rocker cover and looking down the front of the block with a flash light. Look at the chain guides for broken pieces or cracks. It the chain is slapping against the tc cover usually the outside edge of the chain will be very shiny.

Diagnosing engine sounds over the internet is like sniffing flowers through your butt.

gNARLS

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Old 04-19-2011, 09:10 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Haven't done anything other than the plugs, wires, cap and rotor after seafoam through the intake. Truck is in the process of being sold and It looks like the new owner will be taking care of it, he said he didnt mind, but thank you for the help. I'll forward him the info.
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:47 PM   #16 (permalink)
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What's it mean when a 22r is louder when hot then cold.
Also gas in oil and oil in carb tray. Rings?
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Old 09-21-2019, 09:17 AM   #17 (permalink)
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1). I would give it a full tune-up. Plugs (Denso), Plug wires (Toyota OEM wires are the best), Air filter, Fuel filter, Replace the Transmission and differential lube, Clean the throttle body, New water pump/alternator/fan belts (Toyota OEM, not much more but lasts for ever).

2). Adjust the valve lash
3). Install a new O2 sensor and then every 75.000 miles. You will notice the difference immediately and it's cheap. A Denso is $23 on RockAuto.
4). Pull the vacuum lines off the intake manifold and clean out the bungs. The small ones can be 100% block. Mine were.
5). Add Royal Purple (whole can) at a fill-up for three consecutive tanks. Had a rough hot start issue that was a injector leaking due to cheap gas for years. After each bottle it
started better. Now no issue at all.
6). Flush the brake lines.

Go online and join the Shell gas fuel rewards program and get minimum 5 cent per gallon off and more from repeat fill-ups and even shopping/ restaurants. It's a top tier fuel that will keep the engine (injectors) clean. Prices are competitive and the fuel rewards makes it cheaper.

My 86 Toyota 2WD truck is my daily driver since I bought it new 33 years and 470,000 miles ago. I speak all this from experience.
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:18 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Replace the old shitty vacuum hose with new stuff to eliminate any vacuum leaks.
Edit in.
Buy stealership from japan or replace the chink shit every year
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Old 09-23-2019, 09:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Edit in.
Buy stealership from japan or replace the chink shit every year
Or get some silicone hose kits from one of the aftermarket yota vendors..
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Old 09-24-2019, 09:02 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Or get some silicone hose kits from one of the aftermarket yota vendors..
Oh hells yes
Cuz the Napa hose quality varies, and well CHINA
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Old 09-25-2019, 12:33 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hodgiemoto View Post
Or get some silicone hose kits from one of the aftermarket yota vendors..
Oh hells yes
Cuz the Napa hose quality varies, and well CHINA<a href="https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" >:-)</a>
Found this out the hard way myself.
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Just because they art tight, does not mean they are good. Have you tried lubing them?
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Old 09-25-2019, 08:53 AM   #22 (permalink)
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1). I would give it a full tune-up. Plugs (Denso), Plug wires (Toyota OEM wires are the best), Air filter, Fuel filter, Replace the Transmission and differential lube, Clean the throttle body, New water pump/alternator/fan belts (Toyota OEM, not much more but lasts for ever).

2). Adjust the valve lash
3). Install a new O2 sensor and then every 75.000 miles. You will notice the difference immediately and it's cheap. A Denso is $23 on RockAuto.
4). Pull the vacuum lines off the intake manifold and clean out the bungs. The small ones can be 100% block. Mine were.
5). Add Royal Purple (whole can) at a fill-up for three consecutive tanks. Had a rough hot start issue that was a injector leaking due to cheap gas for years. After each bottle it
started better. Now no issue at all.
6). Flush the brake lines.

Go online and join the Shell gas fuel rewards program and get minimum 5 cent per gallon off and more from repeat fill-ups and even shopping/ restaurants. It's a top tier fuel that will keep the engine (injectors) clean. Prices are competitive and the fuel rewards makes it cheaper.

My 86 Toyota 2WD truck is my daily driver since I bought it new 33 years and 470,000 miles ago. I speak all this from experience.



Troll much 1post wonder???
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