Pirate 4x4 banner

141 - 160 of 210 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #141
Transfer case front output shaft seal R&R today. Could have been a quick day if the planets had lined up, but they didn't...

First, it was difficult to nail down the right part. So I just pulled it and got the part number off the seal. Part number on the seal was 30138. Corresponds with GM part number 12474947, which you can fine online at Amazon and Rock Auto for about $60. However, I didn't have time to wait for one to be shipped to me, so I got the AutoZone Duralast 710495 for $35.99.

But before I could remove the seal, I had to get the driveshaft out. And it wasn't going to come easy. After gently tapping with a small hammer, and then tapping not-so-gently with a larger hammer with no movement at all, I hit the splines with some Kroil. Then it came out with a bit more tapping. I guess whoever removed it last didn't grease the splines.

From there, I had to find someone with the part I needed. The local AutoZone didn't have it, so I had to drive halfway across town to a shop that had one.

And after I got home, I realized I didn't have a socket big enough to drive it in. Largest socket is 2" and I needed at least a 2 1/4" socket. Took me a while of gently tapping around the perimeter to get it seated.

Driveshaft went back in without any problems, but with some grease on the splines this time. U-joints are original, and looked fine, so I didn't mess with 'em.

Then had to top off the transfer case with AutoTrac II fluid. Made a mess, of course, even using a fluid transfer pump.

From there, I decided to try to adjust the parking brakes again. They didn't hold the 'Burb in place when I parked it in our steep driveway last night. Thought I had them adjusted just right, but when it didn't stay in place, I figured I screwed something up. Anyway, between starting from scratch and adjusting both sides yet again, and getting the cable just right, it still won't stay in place on the driveway. That's odd, because the old worn out parking brake did just fine, after I cleaned up all the gear lube that had leaked on the shoes on one side.

Wondering if I need to hit the new shoes and inside of the rotors with brake cleaner. Maybe some residue on them that needs to be cleaned off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
How do you have them adjusted? No ridges worn on the inside of the rotor "hat/drum" per say right?

Brake cleaner and a scotch brite pad wouldnt be a bad idea on the inside of the rotor hat.

Take off the rotor and adjust the shoes apart a little bit and see if the rotor still slides on, if it does remove it and adjust them out more. Keep doing this until you just cant quite get the rotor on then back off the shoes just a little bit. They always seems to have a tight spot about midway of having the rotor installed then loosen up when you get the rotor seated on the hub. You will want to hear and feel a little bit of drag with the rotor installed fully and you try and turn it.

By the way they never seen to work near as well rolling backwards vs going forwards, i dont know why but its easy to drive through them backing out of my driveway(flat ground) but when i shift to drive and try to go forward its obvious they are on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #143
How do you have them adjusted? No ridges worn on the inside of the rotor "hat/drum" per say right?

Brake cleaner and a scotch brite pad wouldnt be a bad idea on the inside of the rotor hat.

Take off the rotor and adjust the shoes apart a little bit and see if the rotor still slides on, if it does remove it and adjust them out more. Keep doing this until you just cant quite get the rotor on then back off the shoes just a little bit. They always seems to have a tight spot about midway of having the rotor installed then loosen up when you get the rotor seated on the hub. You will want to hear and feel a little bit of drag with the rotor installed fully and you try and turn it.

By the way they never seen to work near as well rolling backwards vs going forwards, i dont know why but its easy to drive through them backing out of my driveway(flat ground) but when i shift to drive and try to go forward its obvious they are on.
Yeah, that's exactly how I adjusted them -- until I could just get the rotor on. Then I made sure they were just barely dragging when I installed them. Also took the slack out of the cable.

Rotors are new. Shoes are new.

Think I'll pull rotors off and hit shoes and inside of rotors with brake cleaner and try again.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Set them to where you can barely turn the rotors when they are installed.

They are being held on with the little clip with the 10mm screw iirc on the bottom side(180* from the actautor) correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #145 (Edited)
Set them to where you can barely turn the rotors when they are installed.

They are being held on with the little clip with the 10mm screw iirc on the bottom side(180* from the actautor) correct?
I always set the shoes to where they are just barely touching the drums. Any further out and I think they would wear prematurely.
 

·
Dinkerdoodledoo
Joined
·
9,259 Posts
Just swap the coil wiring to the PCM so the firing order matches and you can use any Mark IV cam, I have a stock 502 HO cam in mine.
How does that run? I picked up one for cheap I may build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #147
Going to install new Timken hubs this weekend.

Serpentine belt coming up next.

The itty bitty tires and shitty stance (a few inches too high in the rear) are really starting to wear me out. Itching to throw some larger tires under it and get some aftermarket keys to lift the front a few inches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #148
Timken hubs are on. Took about 3 hours. The faint low pitched whine/hum that I was hearing seems to be gone.

Serp belt (new tensioner and idler pulley) up next.

Headed on a bit of a road trip this weekend - have to pick up 66 Fairlane GT convertible in Columbus, GA.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #150
Pics below. Has a built 428, Edelbrock alum heads, mild solid roller, headers, etc. Heads and intake (Streetmaster) painted for a bit of a stealth look. Toploader 4 sp, 3.25 9". Still needs a few finishing touches.







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #151 (Edited)
Truck did fine on the road trip.

But the driver was a clusterfuck....

I managed to run out of gas in Mississippi. Damn "low fuel" light didn't come on until AFTER the engine died and I was coasting to a stop. Local guy came by in his F250 and gave me 2 gallons of gas from his gas can. Wouldn't let me pay him, either.

And I forgot my keys to my car and the storage unit at home. Realized it after I was already 4 hours into the road trip. Had to break into my own storage unit and hotwire my own car.

Live and learn.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
791 Posts
Truck did fine on the road trip.

But the driver was a clusterfuck....

I managed to run out of gas in Mississippi. Damn "low fuel" light didn't come on until AFTER the engine died and I was coasting to a stop. Local guy came by in his F250 and gave me 2 gallons of gas from his gas can. Wouldn't let me pay him, either.

And I forgot my keys to my car and the storage unit at home. Realized it after I was already 4 hours into the road trip. Had to break into my own storage unit and hotwire my own car.

Live and learn.


I’ve been in that spot in my old Chevy in middle of nowhere AR. If the light came on, I was out of gas.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,285 Posts
Sharp car! We put together a 67 ranchero for my grandfather, red with black interior :grinpimp:

I'm looking for some trim pieces, top of the windshield, and IIRC LR wheel well moulding, lmk if you have a connection
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #154
Sharp car! We put together a 67 ranchero for my grandfather, red with black interior :grinpimp:

I'm looking for some trim pieces, top of the windshield, and IIRC LR wheel well moulding, lmk if you have a connection
I should have the top of the windshield trip. Not sure about wheelwell molding. Send me a message to discuss.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
238 Posts
I think it is time for a stand alone trans cooler.

I spent a few hours at a car accident yesterday (jerkoff ran a stop sign and my wife ended up rolling her 2017 JGC, everyone is okay) with the AC blasting in the burb so my wife could stay cool and relaxed while I dealt with the tow/sheriff/insurance.

It was about 85 out yesterday, and when i got in the burb to head home with the wife, i saw the trans temp matching the coolant temp. Obvious heatsoak

Anyone report on a standalone setup in these? I see Mutt used the TruKool 40K...

Any feedback appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #158
I think it is time for a stand alone trans cooler.

I spent a few hours at a car accident yesterday (jerkoff ran a stop sign and my wife ended up rolling her 2017 JGC, everyone is okay) with the AC blasting in the burb so my wife could stay cool and relaxed while I dealt with the tow/sheriff/insurance.

It was about 85 out yesterday, and when i got in the burb to head home with the wife, i saw the trans temp matching the coolant temp. Obvious heatsoak

Anyone report on a standalone setup in these? I see Mutt used the TruKool 40K...

Any feedback appreciated.
TruKool 40k is the recommended setup. I've seen several folks post positive feedback on it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
238 Posts
That is the route I am going to go.

Here is a slick install video to use the factory connections and not run a bunch of hose:


Im using these parts:

Tru Cool Max: LPD47391

Adapters/Connectors:
ACDelco 19130039 (2 PCS)
Anderson Metals 50062 (1 PC)

I will then make my own mounts. There is a guy that sells them, but for $65, I think I have it covered:
https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/member-made-tools-parts-classifieds-197/tru-cool-max-trans-cooler-4739-47391-install-kit-brackets-fittings-hardware-508374/

:beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #160
Thanks for the details. I ordered the kit. Think I'm going to remove the radiator, since I need to install the lower radiator shroud (was MIA when I bought the truck). I'll install new radiator hoses as well as a new serpentine belt, idler pulley and tensioner while I'm at it.
 
141 - 160 of 210 Posts
Top