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Discussion Starter · #201 · (Edited)
...exhaust is finally - finally - done...

too tired to explain everything, but the short version is I added a second muffler, relocated the cutout, and decided not to use header wrap on anything and instead fab'd up two aluminum bolt-on heat shields and am using both muffler wrap and form-a-shield from DEI.

















 
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E-Locker or Bust!
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Do you have a part number for the Aluminum muffler wrap you used? Is it adhesive. It looks like you used the same or similar on your fuel tank. The fiberglass header wrap always seems to get torn up for me and I've got some plastic components near my exhaust which started to soften on a hot day recently.

Looks REALLY well thought out, man. You should be proud of that exhaust setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #203 · (Edited)
thanks man (y). I'm actually I'm using three different types of DEI heat insulation; the super sticky peel-n-stick Floor-n-Tunnel Shield applied directly to the tanks and crossmembers (050503), the muffler wrap directly around the mufflers (non-adhesive, 010455), and the Form-a-Shield/Blanket (050519) directly to the curved section. I used both their stainless locking ties and worm clamps, and I prefer the worm clamps because they're 'reusable/repositionable'. Anyway I am really happy with their products.

And oh BTW, tell those UA guys that after our Dakota's built I'm gonna submit to come join the fun 😉😎
 

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Thanks for the information and will do!
 

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Fab Guy
99 dodge/11.5/ho72/24v/nv4500/np205/mvt's
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Thats some real nice attention to detail. Looks factory

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 · (Edited)
thanks man (y)

copied a mod that worked really well on my last truck - modified the rear overload to serve as an anti-wrap 'bar': drilled holes, countersunk 45* flat head cap screws, broke the 1" x 3/16" steel strap, cut the excess bolt thread/welded/smoothed the bottom nut so rocks won't rip them off, and viola - anti-wrap bars, especially at max drop (on either side), and the suspension can articulate 'naturally'. The overload itself spreads out the typical wrap inherent with short axle perches, and max drop is just after contact with the bolt sleeves. Plus the straps keep the overloads from 'kicking out'. Plus, as heavy duty as the overload is I'll probably never 'need' bump stops. Anyway it worked great on the last truck which had a ton of low end torque and axle gearing and bigger tires, so I figure it should be just as effective on this truck.

Also, filled the Atlas with 2.5 quarts of Redline MT-90, and started running the gas tank plumbing. It's slow progress...but it's forward progress...











 
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Discussion Starter · #207 ·
...I'd long wanted to use the OE Dakota 360 air intake hat and air cleaner assembly, and after a careful bit of 'plastic surgery' the id of the hat now fits the Holley throttle body perfectly. Looks like it's supposed to be there, and matches nicely...and I can use the OE port on the back to intake the charcoal canister fumes, just like factory.





here's where I started trimming off the bottom edge, and just went all the way around and it fits like a glove -



I had also thought about using this hi-zoot intake from Extreme Velocity but it just isn't necessary, especially considering this engine is a 800-4500 rpm torque engine and the inlet is the same size on both - 3-inch







Gonna work good...
 
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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
I just trimmed off the plastic molded sections that I think were designed to line up with the factory kegger - either way I removed those bosses and it fit perfectly.



here's how it looks on the inside. I don't think this hat will fit over the choke horn on a carbureted setup - there would likely be too much interference with the metal supports internal to the air hat, but on a setup without any 'above deck' choke etc it should fit and function great.

 

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Discussion Starter · #209 ·
so...I'm OCD on how my shifters 'throw' - I like all of the low range options to be the same direction (forward) and hi range rearward - just how my brain likes it, and because of that I had to modify/extend the Atlas doubler bracket to operate on the other side of how it comes. Now, when I'm "all in" all 3 shifters will be pushed forward, and vise versa when in hi range. Here's the result -

Here's how the bracket bolts up normally with the shift lever aiming to the d-side and low range being 'back' (disregard my hand-written marks - I had it backwards...) -



I flipped the shift lever 180* and made brackets to shift it from the opposite side, reversing the throw, and marked it appropriately -





used half of the original bracket and fabbed my own new extended half, flipped the lever 180 - perfect -





 

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I need to do this on my Ecobox/205 setup. The 205 low range selectors are opposite the ecobox selector and it drives me nuts! Nice job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
...BIG milestone achieved yesterday/today - after 22 months the cab is finally back 'on'. Had to make just two minor clearance mods to the fuel vapor line routing and trimmed the bottom edge of the back of the cab to get better access to the two fuel filler units, but otherwise it dropped right onto the mounts just like it was imagineered for it. Had a set of 17" dually wheels and bolted 'em up to make it easy to roll the chassis underneath the cab...and along with using both shop cranes Ben n I carefully and precisely lift the cab up off the uberstands and then down onto the chassis...and we were able to safely accomplish the j.o.b 👍

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reinstalled the under-floor sound/heat insulation -

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good clearance between the valve covers and firewall -

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here's the twin charcoal canisters plumbed in and ready to keep the truck from smelling like raw fuel (bleck) -

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real good clearance for all of the shift linkage -

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Wheels n tires are next, and the thing will finally be 'weight on wheels' 👍
 
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That's gotta be a good feeling getting the cab back on! Looks great!
 
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Discussion Starter · #213 ·
definitely!

...bolted up two of the beadlocks and stuck 'em on the axle, and just had to toss on a fender to see what it's really gonna look like, and yah I'm diggin it (y)





real good fender clearance -

 
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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
...since I'm getting ready to bolt stuff to the firewall I figured now was the time to prep, prime and paint it. First I used sander deglosser ("liquid sandpaper") to give the old but good paint tome 'tooth', then a coat of good ole Rustoleum rusty metal primer, and then two coats of 'my' color, USAF "Strata" Blue :) . Meanwhile, getting ready to fab up the frame for the center console so the shifter will have something solid to bolt to, locate the t-case shifters, and I'm hitting my hose shop today to get the fittings for the hydrobooster and gearbox...









 
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Discussion Starter · #215 ·
...fabbed up a mount for the Scout II gearbox, shortened the column by two inches (for additional exhaust manifold clearance), and made two holes in the floor - the forward one for the trio of t-case shifters, and the rearward one for access to linkage. etc. The gearbox had to be mounted 'outward' because the two ram-assist ports unfortunately aim straight towards the engine, so I'm mounting the gearbox far enough away so as not to be affected by engine heat, plus it being further out means less bump steer angle so bonus. Nothing's in the way of the tire - in fact there was tone of room so I used it.

Lots of finish work to do, but the t-case shifters and Winters Sidewinder transmission shifter should be in place in a couple weeks. Also, most of my steering/hydrobooster plumbing is in from PSC so I'll be fabbing all the hydraulic lines soon.

Progress 👍

this thing is gonna get a lot of unending stress placed against it so I made it 'big'; main face is 1/2" plate, gusseted by 1/4" -









can't really tell by looking at it...but this section of the column is now 2 inches shorter than it was...



both holes button up nicely - the front via a boss t-case shifter plate I made, and the rear with just regular plate to seal the floor under the custom center console, which is 'on deck'.

 
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Discussion Starter · #216 · (Edited)
I've been jammin' away on a few small but critical items and finally got them 'done' enough to take some pics. First off, in the spirit of keeping things as 'peaceful' as possible in the cab I've been trying to re-use all of the factory insulation I can. Fortunately, my spare Dakota parts truck had a useful but somewhat damaged firewall insulation pad, and I was able to clean it, repair/restore it, and install it.

Look close - you can see the derelict pad in place just before I removed it -

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after a very thorough scrubbin' with simple green and the garden hose, the residual heat-reflective foil was almost all the way gone so I peeled off as much of the remnants as I could and repaired two tears/holes with duct tape -

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then I (re)covered the whole center area with a sheet of thin DEI peel-n-stick heat insulation -

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Ya know when you use a big hole saw...there's decent sized discs that get cut away and fall out the bottom?, well I always keep those in case I want to use them as large washers, and in this case I cleaned up several of the aluminum pieces and used them as retention discs to affix the pad to the firewall. I cleaned the edges, painted them satin black, baked them at 200* for 20 minutes in my toaster oven (my 'poor-man's powder coating system'), and used 1/4 fine thread nuts to bolt it all up clean and secure. Plus I used Flex Glue to secure the outer edges so they wouldn't 'flap around', and used big magnets to 'press' the edges to the firewall - worked great, and now a large part of the firewall and cowl have that much more heat and sound insulation 👍

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Next, I borrowed an idea from the 'Book of Nacho' and fabbed up the basic frame for the center console, and after a bunch of small mods/upgrades I got a Winters Performance shifter bolted up.

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...after 'merging' (welding) the two separate Atlas t-case shifter bases together and a bunch of small mods I got the triple-stick in place, complete with a trio of matching Winters shift knobs -

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...and now that the firewall is 'done', next up is mounting the hydrobooster and steering gearbox

...progress
 

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Discussion Starter · #217 ·
...well crap - turns out with the big engine crammed in there the high-steer tie rod is just too close to the oil pan for my comfort...so...I'm going back to regular crossover and the high-steer kit is for sale, in case anyone wants -

 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
hydrobooster and steering gearbox bolted up hopefully for the final time; core support/fenders/radiator are coming soon, then fitting the rest of the stuff in the engine bay and hi/lo pressure lines. Progress









 

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Discussion Starter · #219 · (Edited)
...been about a month and time for some updates. Been jammin' hard on all of the 'small stuff', to include making lots of brackets for the engine bay components (PSC reservoir and vent, coolant reservoir, washer reservoir, fuse box/panel, air box, heater hoses), and the steering wheel is now connected to the tires and the ram is mounted.

First - prepped/primed/painted the inner fenders Air Force Blue. Got the steering lines, brake lines, trans cooler lines, radiator coolant hoses and fan shroud 'figured out', and am now in the process of finalizing those and connecting all of those in place.

Should have the engine 'wet' right after that...and then I'll know if there's any coolant leaks anywhere :p

Fabbed up all of these little brackets to have something to bolt the accessories 'to' (battery(s) are going in the bed) - some use nutzerts, and some use good 'ole pop-rivets ;D

PSC reservoir and coolant reservoir brackets -



Holley Sniper EFI brain box bracket -



Fuse box -



Washer reservoir (generic/Amazon)-



PSC reservoir and vent, engine coolant reservoir (new off-the-shelf/Jeep Cherokee), and the Sniper coil -



PSC vent tucked behind the reservoir -



Sniper EFI brain box -



OE fuse box -



this was cool - I needed a way to attach a bracket 'to' the intake manifold to keep the heater hoses from flopping around on top of the intake, and I found these double-ended 'studs' (GM 12550726) that are 3/8-16 'course' thread, same as what a big block Mopar used for the intake manifold bolts, replaced two of 'em towards the front, torqued 'em to 50 lbs, and between them and one of the valve cover studs had a perfect mounting solution for a nice little bracket -









 

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Discussion Starter · #220 ·
for a little extra cooling system protection I installed a zinc anode in the water pump (only available location) -







RobbMC EFI fuel tank and washer reservoir; this EFI tank is 'fed' low-pressure fuel from the OE gas tank, and inside is a standard Warblo (sp) EFI fuel pump, and that is what the EFI/engine will actually 'run' on -



Meanwhile...back to standard crossover steering - ended up with a nice 4 inches of compression on both sides -





with the ram-bottomed out each way I ended up with about 33* of steering - well below the 42* threshold of the RCV axle shafts, and ended up with about an inch of clearance before the tires rub the leafs -















...also got the core of the rock sliders in place - used 2.5" x 3/16 wall round tubing for the mains, welded to the frame via 6 laterals, each gusseted with 1/4" plate triangles to help the frame from deflecting - should work good. The running boards/rock rails will extend out from these -







...okay -

I'll have the fan shroud, radiator, rad hoses, and brakes all buttoned up soon.
 
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