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Discussion Starter #1
I'm gonna take a stab at adding some tech here.
I have a 2002 f150 supercrew 2wd with a 5.4l. I'm in the middle of swapping in a superduty zf5 and a bw 4406 manual shifted t-case because the 4r70w went out while on a road trip with the kids.
So far I haven't had to fab anything, just new and j/y parts.
I picked up a used zf5-47 from a 01 f350 4x4 v10 off evil bay.
New clutch, flywheel, master/ slave setup off rockauto for an 01 f350 with a 5.4l
New block plate and flywheel bolts off Amazon for a mustang.
Petal assembly from the j/y from a manual f150.

As of now I have the zf in and bolted to the engine, I ended up cutting a way bigger hole in the floor then I thought I had to.
The 2wd trans crossmember isn't going to work as the mount location on the zf is 2.5" lower then the 2wd 4r70w. I'm gonna head to picknpull next to see if a 4wd crossmember will work.
The jy petals are in and the master and line are in. Everything went right in, only the pushrod from a superduty is too short, need to grab one from an f150.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Today I'm pulling the 4406 out of my explorer and bolting it to the zf5 so I can measure for a driveshaft. I'm hoping I can get lucky and one from a 4x4 4r100 f150 will work. If not will have the one I have from the explorer lengthened.
(Explorer is getting a 203/205 doubler at some point)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Got it bolted up today.
The rear most shifter mounting hole was 3" from the t-case flange just like the 4r70w so I redrilled the other to line up, this alowed me to reuse the factory linkage from the 4r70w.
Need to reroute the exhaust around the t-case. Not sure if I would have to do this if I started out with a 4wd.
For the driveshaft it measured 62" from output shaft to pinion flange, anyone know what the measurement would be of a same gen f150 4x4/4r100 truck?
Still have to finish up on all the wiring, get a driveshaft, get the right clutch petal linkage then shifter and boot.
 

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Cool project. I swapped a ZF into my 90 Bronco so you have my appreciation and respect :D

What's the computer plan? Do you have one from a manual truck?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Dan.
My plan A is to guy the old trans and leave everything plugged in and duck taped/tiptoed up underneath and leave the range selector in neutral. If that doesn't work the local speed shop can reflash the auto out of my stock ecm.
Plan A = free, plan B= not so free.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Only two things from this weekend
- the 2wd crossmember sits about 2 1/2 inches higher then a 4wd crossmember. T-case was up into the body and still needed another inch.
- I had ordered the clutch slave/master kit for a game year super duty. Everything plugged in fine then realized I only had an inch of clutch pedal travel. Grabbed a master cyl push rid from the jy today and sure enough the f150 one is longer. Installed it and the clutch feels like it should, atleaste for not being able to start it yet.

Struck out on finding a jy drive shaft that would work so I'm gonna drop off the one I had from the explorer to the driveline shop to get lengthened and balanced. I measured 62" from output shaft to the pinion flange.
 

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Awesome job so far, I always thought this would be super doable with a combination of duty and F-150 Manual parts.
You're proving that it is indeed doable and I'm sure very worth while.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got it together enough for a test drive today. Feel like it should have been more to it but so far have pretty much just bolted everything in with stock parts.
Will make a parts list of what I used once I gather all the receipts.
From the test drive I found I have no speedometer, cell on for trans solenoids that I didn't hook up and I really need to patch up to hole in the floor at the shifter.
Other them that the thing ran great, shifted as good as a zf should and felt like it had more power then the failing auto.
This was a pretty easy project so far. Mostly just scrounging for the right parts then bolting them in. Would have been half the work if I started with a 4wd.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cool, what's the front diff, lift, suspension tire plans?
I'm not set yet on what I'm going to do for a front diff yet, have to get back on my v8 explorer project next.
I am keeping an eye out for an 05+ superduty front for cheap but if not I have a d44 from a 78 bronco or am also eyeing a d50 ttb set up. Truck will get 35-37" and be mostly for daily driving and towing light trails with the kids in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well fml!
I have been driving it around for a week, everything going good. Wired the speed signal to the sender on the output shaft of the t-case. Was off by half but I think that's an easy fix.
Now it spit out plug #3 😞
Is time cert still the best option for the ford 2v motors?
 

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did you timesert? It worked well for me on my v10 2v. only issue was something was wrong with the tap. Timesert didn't question me and sent me a replacement. they looked Identical, but one wouldn't tap and one went right in. go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've done nothing with it yet. Going to order the calvan 38900 within the week. Looks alot like the timecert kit but without the tabs you hammer down and its half the price.
 

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I used the Calvan kit on all the holes on my 2V V10.

It popped one, ordered the kit and did the rest preemptively. That was years ago, no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have now driven it 1k+ miles. All of the modules have reset and still no codes. I believe this would mean it would pass all but visual for ca smog test.
It's getting the same or maybe better mpg. Hard to tell with the speedometer still off.
 
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