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Discussion Starter #1
I am starting to plan my next build. Going to start with a 04-06 LJ or a 2013 JK 4 door. After reading about the new Dana 60's in the super duty's, I was thinking it would be a good candidate for a swap. Big axle tubes, 35 spline inners and outers, big breaks, giant knuckles... Only concern is the lack of axle tube on the driver side. They have the mounts cast in for a 4 link, so that might work fine, probably would do a 3 link...

I read someone that there might be a problem with the pumpkin being too far over and might hit the frame....

Any thoughts or info would be appreciated...
 

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I've got my brackets tacked on as we speak... It's an 07 jk , lots guys over on jko that have made them work.... I'm going to run a 3 link and the driver lower control mount is gonna have to be welded to the diff...I'm a little nervous but I got some nic55 electrodes so will see if it holds up......as for everything else it should clear.... I did have to move my brackets outwards an inch . I wish I could of held out for a 79 and have more tube to work with. Good luck
 

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You don't need any tube to work with. The works already done with the mounts that are casted in.

If it hits the frame... move the frame!

That reminds me of my favorite quote I've ever read on Pirate. IIRC it was Scott @ Rock Stomper that said... "My tires used to rub, then I cut the hood, they don't rub any more."
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ha ha ha. That is funny. My problem with moving the frame on that side is the steering box is there. I know te super duty 60 wont bolt in, buti don't want to sazall off the front of the frame on a brand new JK. Hopefully someone who has one installed can post some pictures so I can get an idea of what I will be working with.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
not on a street driven jeep, hydro assist probably, but pretty sure i will want to keep a steering box. on a trail rig with full hydro, if the power steering pump goes out you get pissed off, and get a friend to tow you back to the trail head. On the highway with full hydro, if your PS pump goes out, you die
 

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I put an 05 sd 60 under my 07 Jk. I cut all the factory crap off. Made enough room for a btf truss I used and Fabbed the rest. I drilled through the cast into the actual tube in a couple of spots and plug welded my truss on the driver side.

Also left a couple inches of bracketry that comes off the tube. Welded my truss to this. I'm not welded to the cast housing anywhere. I did weld my homeade highsteer to the cast knuckles.

There is a guy on here ford tech guru I think. He is working on getting some knuckles made for the 05 and newer sd axles.

The 05 sd 60 is a beast.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I put an 05 sd 60 under my 07 Jk. I cut all the factory crap off. Made enough room for a btf truss I used and Fabbed the rest. I drilled through the cast into the actual tube in a couple of spots and plug welded my truss on the driver side.

Also left a couple inches of bracketry that comes off the tube. Welded my truss to this. I'm not welded to the cast housing anywhere. I did weld my homeade highsteer to the cast knuckles.

There is a guy on here ford tech guru I think. He is working on getting some knuckles made for the 05 and newer sd axles.

The 05 sd 60 is a beast.
Do you have any pictures of what you did? How did you handle the ABS sensors etc... I am struggling with the decision to use a set of late model SD axles or just beef up the stock axles under a 2013 rubicon... I figure the upgrades to the JK axles will cost we $2600 without steering upgrades... (RCV axles, alloy usa in the back, gears, inner axle sleeve, outer axle shell, gear install kits. Guys on the JK forum say that will hold up fine to 37/38" tires.

Alternatively, a pair of axles out of a late model super duty would cost about 1500, gears 700, instal kits 200, arb lockers 2000, front truss 350. so just about $5000...

If I sold the stock rubicon axles for 1500-2000, it seems like I could do the 60's for about the same money, assuming I could get them to fit. Obviously I would still need stuff like coil pads, link and shock tabs etc... And that would be using stock axle shafts, not chromo RCVs....
 

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I didn't use any of the sensors. I have no speedo, other than that it's fine. I know how fast im going by watching the tach. I have a build thread in hardcore.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, some of those simple things that can be worked around will be required for me due to being on the street and having a wife. Has anyone successfully used a late model SD front and got all the speed and ABS sensors to work?
 

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Yeah, some of those simple things that can be worked around will be required for me due to being on the street and having a wife. Has anyone successfully used a late model SD front and got all the speed and ABS sensors to work?
You only need one tone ring for the speedo to work and it does not have to be on the axle. Toss a reluctor on the t-case output with adjusted teeth number or just run one on the rear.
ABS on the other hand will require all 4.

If the SD60 has tone rings it should not be hard to modify to allow the JK to read it.
 

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IIRC if it's done correctly, you can steer with dead pump or stalled engine. It's possible to drive high speed also.
I've got PSC full hydro steering and the motor does not need to be on to steer it. It's a common misconception that full hydro on the street = bus load of dead nuns. No worries if you dont want to use it, but it's good to be aware of the options.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've got PSC full hydro steering and the motor does not need to be on to steer it. It's a common misconception that full hydro on the street = bus load of dead nuns. No worries if you dont want to use it, but it's good to be aware of the options.
I understand what you are saying, and you are right, it is possible to steer, not easily, but possible without the motor running, but not possible without fluid. If your pump shits the bed, you will more than likely loose all your fluid and be ass out. If you get a leak or split a line, you loose all your fluid and you are screwed... At least with a box, even with no fluid you still have a mechanical link
 

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Yeah, some of those simple things that can be worked around will be required for me due to being on the street and having a wife. Has anyone successfully used a late model SD front and got all the speed and ABS sensors to work?
I drive on the street but i got ride of the wife. :D
 
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