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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
406 axles on a 110

Hi, Im fitting 406 axles on my 110, got the back on today for 1st fitting but It
looks like there's a problem with the trailing arms, the axle is sitting with the diff facing down about 4 or 5 degrees, if I replace the mog mounting brackets
with the defender ones will this sort it out or if I crank the trailing arms will the help or will I do both? have a look at the pisc and let me know.
I've attached a photo bucket link too.



http://s897.photobucket.com/albums/ac176/fearathas/406 Brakes/
 

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Why not use the upper link to rotate the axle so you achieve the pinion angle you desire?

I don't see an upper link in the pics, but the only time I had an issue like this, the upper arm was able to be extended to return the pinion angle to where we wanted it.
 

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Is it me or do those arms look to long???
Agree - the springs look like their lower setting is forced back...and to PT's point...using the upper links to balance things out would work right...
 

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Granted I am not a suspension expert by anys tretch, but it looks as though the spring perch geometry could be corrected by either shortening the arms, or moving th brackets further back on the axle.

Pinion angle seems to be pretty easily corrected by moving the top of the axle back where it belongs. But as the rotation will be around the lower links, the mounting points will either need to be moved back, or the links shortened.
Ideally, the lengths of both links would have been taken into consideration, or arther their dimensions would have flowed from the geometry of the correctly located axle housing.

If one were to remove the springs and replace them with pieces of big tubing (same OD as the springs), or some such, as long as the springs would be at standard desired ride height, the link lengths could probably be directly measured, rather than calculated from theoretical locations.
 

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The problem is that you are going about this backward. The first step is to find out where you want the axle (wheelbase). Then deturmine where you want the pinion. Then deturmine what links angles you want (if that is ride height in your pictures, you will have antisquate like a mothelfocker). Then after all that, mount the link brackets and links. Then deturmine upper spring perch.

It looks like you took a mog axle, and some kind of stock aftermarket link setup and bolted them together.
 

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I wish I had some portal axles to play with, but I don't.

Assuming the tranny is fixed (like, keeping the stock LR unit in place),
how to set pinion angle?
Isn't then a matter of clocking the portals and set the pinion to match the output flange as better as possible?:confused:
Then add spring perches and links bracketry etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It looks like you took a mog axle, and some kind of stock aftermarket link setup and bolted them together.
That's what I did:laughing:
I got a bit carried away and just bolted stuff together to see what it would look like half expecting it to fit and be perfect first time :rolleyes:
I had another look today, The Trailing arms are too long and compared to the defender axles, the brackets on the mog are longer by about 2 1/2 ", (I think I put the top bracket's on wrong).
The axle shock mounts still need to be welded to the axle so thats why their not in the picture,
The position of the pinion is not an issue as the prop shaft will be made to suit
I want the axle to sit where the defender axle was so I dont have to move the spring seats on the chassis.
Dose any of this help:)
 

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I can't see the top link in those pics.

You seem to have answered your own question. Either shorten the trailing arms or cut the brackets off the Mog axles and weld on some Defender ones in their place. I'd be inclined to do the latter.

How did you get on with the front? :eek:
 

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That's what I did:laughing:
I got a bit carried away and just bolted stuff together to see what it would look like half expecting it to fit and be perfect first time :rolleyes:
I had another look today, The Trailing arms are too long and compared to the defender axles, the brackets on the mog are longer by about 2 1/2 ", (I think I put the top bracket's on wrong).
The axle shock mounts still need to be welded to the axle so thats why their not in the picture,
The position of the pinion is not an issue as the prop shaft will be made to suit
I want the axle to sit where the defender axle was so I dont have to move the spring seats on the chassis.
Dose any of this help:)
Yes.

Then the first thing to do, is unbolt it, and move the axle flat under the spring purches. That looks like it might solve the pinion angle on its own. Then reweld the axle purches for the links. I would dump that shiny link stuff all together. It looks cheesy and you could do better since you are going to have to weld a good amount anyway to get the axle under the rig.

Edit: For simplicity, run 10in of vertical separation minimum and might as well triangulate the lowers as much as you can, since you are going to make new brackets anyway. You will like it, promise.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Buckon,
That cheesy stuff cost me a fortune its the dogs nuts over here:laughing:
I was going to use a rear Panard rod same as on the P38 Range Rover or
would it be better to fab up new arms for the top mounts? This was the original plan but a mate who is big into offroad comps convinced me to go panard
I'll get back under tomorrow and unbolt for a refit, Thanks for all the replys lads.
 

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Thanks Buckon,
That cheesy stuff cost me a fortune its the dogs nuts over here:laughing:
I was going to use a rear Panard rod same as on the P38 Range Rover or
would it be better to fab up new arms for the top mounts? This was the original plan but a mate who is big into offroad comps convinced me to go panard
I'll get back under tomorrow and unbolt for a refit, Thanks for all the replys lads.
Lol. It's good to know that rover owners are equally retarded there as they are here.

"But it's gold, IT'S GOLD!!!" :laughing:

A panhard is just fine if it is set up right. Problem is, your dumping one of the best stock setups ever for an ok one. The rear frame is perfect for a 4 link. You can triangulate the uppers from the inside of the frame and the lowers from the outside of the frame and end up with 0 roll axis. You will not get anywhere near that with a 3 link. Thats what I would do, you will notice the difference. Then when you are done you can have them all zinc plated just like those bars in the pics. Think about that, its TWICE the bling!!! :flipoff2:
 

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Its only gold plating, gold doesnt have the tensile strength necessary to be used for control arms! are those axles un-modified or have the been narrowed?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Its only gold plating, gold doesnt have the tensile strength necessary to be used for control arms! are those axles un-modified or have the been narrowed?
No it's a standard axle on the back with a top mounting plate welded on
the front has been cut and rewelded to get the diff on the landrover side,

The trailings arms are gold lads get over it?

why will they run backwards??
 

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it might not drive backwards but its got about 50000000% AS......:shaking:
 
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