Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Wish it was my job!
Joined
·
2,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
just thought I'd share with you all my misfortune:

My rear upper links on my 4 link are about 36" long, have a chevy Z71 leaf spring bushing at 1 end and a 5/8 x 3/4 heim at the other. The sleeve for the bushing was 1/3/4 x .120 wall ERW tube.

here's what happened. A crack in the HAZ of the weld started it all. It cost me the end of one airshock, the shaft, end, and body endcap of another airshock, and the rear output on my T-Case.

the T-Case:

The bushing end:

One of the Airshocks:
 

·
Wish it was my job!
Joined
·
2,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
on the upside,

who said bushings don't hold up?

This one is 2 years old and out of the link above!

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,698 Posts
on the upside,

who said bushings don't hold up?

This one is 2 years old and out of the link above!

Wouldn't it make more sense to use bushings that aren't so iron hard and tough that they take out tube?

Seems cheaper to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,845 Posts
i've got a few 1 3/4 x .120 bushing ends as leaf spring hangers. they've been good for a couple years now, but i hope to get rid of them in favor of links soon. i've never fully trusted them, and now i have reason not to. thanks for the info.
 

·
Wish it was my job!
Joined
·
2,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
yeah, it had been there a while, unfortunately it is not an easy spot to see, tucked way up in the chassis with the fuel cell on top of it.

Bushing is rock hard for a reason, they last that way. The rear still has too much flex, I am needing a sway bar to slow down the articulation a bit and make the front work more, so I'm not worried about the bushing being too hard to allow enough flex, and, as stated above, the failed weld is what wasted the link, not the bushing being too hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
I agree with your title 100%

Lucky for me, this took out my rear driveshaft and the pinion yoke.

Yeah, and if you can also see, this was the third time..... see the other two dorsal fins that I had put on there.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,348 Posts
was it dom? if it was simi put it where the welds go so it take more load to open it our could bend a steal plate arould it to the tube and it makes it a bit stronger
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,307 Posts
or you could just get thicker wall tube. :flipoff2: all of the stuff we have done has been at least .250 wall... that we had laying around.. no problems yet. .120 does look tiny now tho.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,838 Posts
been there, broke that sheeit, used thicker wall tube... walla! Now the sleeves hold up and you trash $2 bushings instead :flipoff2:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,698 Posts
so I'm not worried about the bushing being too hard to allow enough flex, and, as stated above, the failed weld is what wasted the link, not the bushing being too hard.
Would it have been wasted if you had a soft rubber bushing in there or would that have taken enough stress off of the tube sleeve that it would not have cracked at the HAZ?

Moot anyway, why can't you run rod ends and tube adapters at both ends and not worry about it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,307 Posts
that works if you have it layin around...

i think its worth the couple bucks in steel to get thick walled shit and never have to do it again...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,933 Posts
i just ovaled my bushings....replaced with 250 wall 2" pieces. had it laying around.

now its beef.

no deformity to the bushings either and they aren't rock hard. that is just a testimony to the durability of red eurethane.:flipoff2:

so for all the haters that make fun of us for haveing a heim at one end and a bushing on the other....


eat balls:flipoff2:
 

·
Wish it was my job!
Joined
·
2,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
was it dom? if it was simi put it where the welds go so it take more load to open it our could bend a steal plate arould it to the tube and it makes it a bit stronger
No, it was ERW. When I put the links together I only had enough DOM to do 2 and had to do the other 2 with ERW, so I put the ERW up top where it was less likely to get hurt. Of course, it didn't matter, as the tube ripped at the Weld between the bushing and the link, not at the welded seam in the tubing.

I'll be reinforcing all 8 bushings with a strap of 1" x 3/16" flat stock wrapped around the bushing eye and welded to the tubing.

I could have used 2" x .250 wall tube, but this is a light rig, and I try to keep it that way everywhere I can, hence the 1.5 x .250 wall lower links, aluminum motor, etc etc. The rig only weighs 2950# wet with me in it, I figured that the .120 wall bushing sleeves would be fine. Oh well, live and learn. As the drag racer's say, "if you've never broken it, you built it too heavy"
 

·
Wish it was my job!
Joined
·
2,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Seems silly to me.
I've got a buddy with a scrambler that was built on your philosophy... 1/4" and thicker plate used on everything... it weighs in at around 6500 pounds and I can drive circles around it.

It's just a matter of your buildup philosophy, some guys like to keep things light so that there's less stress and the whole rig and manage breakage that way, some guys like to build it beef so it "never breaks". Typically those guys are running around on rockwell axles, while I'm running toyota stuff.

And for the record, this is my first trail breakage since about a year and a half ago when I shelled a driveshaft U joint. I'll stick to my lightweight rig thanks.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top