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Discussion Starter #1
If I use 1.5" DOM tubing for my tie rod on my Dana30 is it possible to bend the 1.5" tubing in an arch to reach knuckle to knuckle and have clearance between the diff? Or would I just have to make two harder angled bends? Ill be useing 3/4" heims.
 

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i used 1.5 tubing for my tie rod and it doesn't contact the diff cover enough to worry about putting an arc in it. i have ran mine like this a few times and the only thing that has happened was the paint was rubbed off my tie rod.
 

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I used 1.25 solid stock cold roll on mine when I did it and had the ends machined LH and RH for the heims. Worked out great! It was a while back though and ofcourse, in typical fashion, the "gurus" on Jeep forum and Jeeps unlimited told me that it would put too much dead weight in my steering... Yea, did nothing of the sorts. I ran it with a 1.25 solid bar from the pitman to the top of the pass knuckle with high misalignment joints and then used regular joints under the knuckle for the tie rod. Was enough "dead weight" I guess to absorb inertia similar to the way a steering stabalizer would because the steering was nice and smooth, no shakes, wobbles, etc. I was running 35"s and a home brew knock off of an RE long arm kit at the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i used 1.5 tubing for my tie rod and it doesn't contact the diff cover enough to worry about putting an arc in it. i have ran mine like this a few times and the only thing that has happened was the paint was rubbed off my tie rod.
What kind of diff cover? Im running a SOLID aftermarket cover that sitcks out pretty far.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
im running my stock cover still. you could always notch the diff cover if you are set on running the 1.5" tube.
The only reason Im set on the tubing is because, I got 8 3/4" chromoly heims 4-LH 4-RH, lock nuts, Bungs for 1.5x .250, Missalignment washers, reducers, and the DOM tubing. All for about 100 bucks. Notching the cover could work though... Never thought of that, thats a good idea thanks..
 

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i'm all for using the tubing. when i build my new diff cover it will be notched to fit the tubing i'm running. i would go that route, rather then putting a bend in the tie rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
if done properly it will be just fine.
Can you please explain the proper way to go about this? Id really like to avoid it fracturing.
 

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I ran 3/4" heims with solid 1.25" without issue on my old 30 and had enough room for 1.5" with a stock cover and warn guard. I'd just ditch the solid cover for a lower profile cover.
 

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Can you please explain the proper way to go about this? Id really like to avoid it fracturing.
well there's 2 ways i can think of that will work.

you could notch out the cover and put a piece pipe in it's place and if you are worried about it cracking then just gusset the inside of the cover on the non-ring gear side.

or (this would be easier) you could cut the front out of the cover then weld a new plate back in just get it back far enough to clear everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well there's 2 ways i can think of that will work.

you could notch out the cover and put a piece pipe in it's place and if you are worried about it cracking then just gusset the inside of the cover on the non-ring gear side.

or (this would be easier) you could cut the front out of the cover then weld a new plate back in just get it back far enough to clear everything.
wow that sounds like way more trouble then its worth. How about a stock cover and a rock guard on the bottom?
 

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I run a 1.5" tie rod on my HP30. I'm running a Ruffstuff cover, which is pretty fuckin thick. I had to adjust my steering stops a bit, but it's manageable. I can't turn as tight as I used to, but its okay. I have a pretty short wheelbase, which makes up for it.
 

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I never measured it, but my alloy cover I got from rustys don't stick out much past the stocker. Its beefy and easily clears my tie rod with 1 ton ends. Just another option.
 

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bend the section where it passes the diff if you have any clearance issues. kinda a PITA but it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The whole reason why Im using this setup is because I got the chromoly heims, bungs, DOM tubing and lock nuts for 100 bucks.
 

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Why don't you just get some off-set TRE's and be done? You won't have to bend your tube or shave the cover. Look on Ruff Stuff's site.
X2. I had the same problem and this is the direction that I took and it works fine.
 
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