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3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a tintop zuk that lives offroad except for gas and food runs, with a welded rear and 29 inch micro swampers she'll attempt anything without breaking (usually). The problem is I have run out of spare carbs due to jumping, drowning and a couple tip overs on the side(circle tracking with 3 shocks that broke from serious air). My samuri has a strong block but it runs like shiznac due to the crappy samuri carbs. I know from VW's Webers aren't for serious offroad unless you spend a a lot of money so I have recently stripped a sidekick that had a crank failure of it's head,ECM, and wiring. I've found the wiring diagram online but I am still puzzled over the VSS deal with the speedo, I have the sidekick instrument cluster but haven't torn into it yet cause I just recently stripped the kick a couple days ago and haven't had the time yet. Can anyone help me with what needs to be done to put the VSS on the samuri speedo or use the kick speedo? A detailed E-mail from some one who has successfully completed the conversion would be appreciated. What does the VSS tell the fuel injection in relation to mixture and why do I need it, I thought fuel injection works off engine timing, temp, airflow, rpm- why is vehicle speed required. Much appreciation to those who reply. Thanks for your time. Remeber the Zuk is not a 4x4 but a street legal ATV.

67 Posts
Or you can "dry sump" your carb. I do a lot of cycle carb stuff, and I read about this in one of David Vizard's books for off-road racing with Webers.

Basically, you remove the float, and put in fuel cell foam to cut down on the sloshing. Great, you say, "but without the float and needle valve, fuel will just dump into the float bowl and the carb will flood completely in just seconds." You are correct, but you have to drill a hole in the bottom of the float bowl, then vertically install a small pipe (same or larger diameter as the fuel inlet) that has it's top at the level you want the fuel at. Then, connect a fuel hose & fuel pump to this new outlet from the float bowl run back to the tank (return line).

Fuel is pumped in - when it gets over the level of "exit pipe" it is sucked out by the pump and sent back to the tank. Works for jumping, inclines, etc.

Premium Member
886 Posts
I wonder how well that would work? that sounds like a pimp mod. Might act like fuel injection in a way. I know when I try to hop up something with my weber it kills it. thats with it reveresed. Also I drive my rig on the street and wonder how well that would work with that mod. Hrmmm. :grinpimp:


Chris M

41 Posts
Try searching for a 1990 sammy cluster. it has the provision for the Vss wire and it will bolt in to an 88.5 (square vent style) dash.
If not then the worst that will happen is you get a check engine light. When i removed my speedo the light came on and i diagnosed it to be the VSS. It was like that for ages until i swapped in the 16 valve and re-installed a new speedo cable.
No ill effects.

148 Posts
Disclaimer: I did not write this. Just info I found.
This may help:

Wiring Code/Color List

White- hot in run, to fuse box 15 amp ECM fuse
blue/yellow trace- to diag connector, dont mess with
this wire.
brown/yellow trace- to diode, unknown use
violet/yellow trace- to instrument cluster, for check
engine light.
yellow/blue tracer- a/c coupler, leave disconnected
green/black tracer- a/c coupler, leave disconnected, in
future I will try to use these two wires for an idle
up on the trail.
violet - to diag connector
gray/green trace- to Map sensor return signal
gray/yellow trace- reference signal to MAP, TP, air
temp, water temp sensors
gray/red trace- to Tp sensor
gray- TP sensor
blue- Tp sensor
lightgreen/black- TP sensor
blue/white trace- TP sensor
Yellow- Injector
Red - Injector
red/black trace- air temp sensor
red/yellow trace- water temp sensor
lightblue- 5th gear switch
red/green trace- EGR sensor (calif only)
black/green trace- ground to tstat housing
lightgreen/yellow trace- vac switch for Idle
lightgreen/white trace- vac switch for EGR
Red (shielded) - O2 sensor
red/black trace- TACH signal
Black/blue tracer- ground to firewall
Second wire same as above
Black/green trace - ground to firewall and engine for
black/yellow trace- hot in start, from starter solinoid
pink- to fuel pump relay
blue/black trace- to ECM relay

Wire Harness Conversion

First thing to do is to setup the harness, cut off all
the wrapping and filter out unneeded wiring (wires
that do not directly attach to the ECM or manifold),
this will be the most time consuming project as it took
me 3 evenings at 3+hours each. After you get all the
wires sorted out then start wrapping them up, you will
want two branches after the new harness leaves the
firewall, the first one goes to the injector, air temp
sens, water temp sens, the 2 vacuum relays, tp sens,
map sens, basically all the stuff on the intake manifold,
the second will goto the distributor, coil, firewall
ground, and the O2 sensor. I can only think of two
wires that need to stay inside the pass compartment,
the check engine light and the ECM power wire.

Harness Installation

Install the new ECM in place of the original, I had to
drill a couple of holes in the bracket that holds the
ECM behind the glove box, make sure to point the
ECM's plugs to the outside of the Sami and facing up
as in the original donor. Send the new harness through
the firewall and hook up the two inside wires as well
as plug in the new ECM plugs. I left the original
harness in place 'just in case'.

Next hook up the coil, distributor, firewall
grounds, and O2 sensor. You will need to cut and
splice the dist wires.

Also, I have some other docs here: http://www.networkconcepts.org/zuki

Hope this helps a little.

3 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Cool deal on the info

This suzuki talk deal is killer, wish I signed up years ago, thanks for all the help so far. I grew up around off roading and I am aware of dry sumping. Every offroad vehicle should be dry sumped on the block and carb if driving at high speed and on rough terrain, though few do it or have the funds unfortunately. Fuel injection is only half the battle in running upside down or at extreme angles- dry sumping the block is how airplanes do it.
I believe the offroad weber 2bbl. downdraft has a MX on it somewhere with the barrel size, not sure if Weber manufactured them or a distributor converted them, don't think there was a proressive model either. Has anyone had any luck with dellorto carbs?
Back to my fuel injection conversion, it might be difficult for me to locate the injected speedo for the sammy I have two samuri's and two cut up for parts and my buddy has about the same number but have only known of a couple fuel injected ones in my area. If the VSS is not hooked up what will happen besides a trouble light?
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