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Discussion Starter #1
You guys with 1ton running gear, is you brake pedal stiff, mushy, what?
I just finished bleeding my brake...i think, and the pedal feel is pretty good a little softer then i thought it would be. The brake pedal will get stiffer if i pump it a bunch. Still have air in the lines? I think. I haven't driven it yet, no tires/wheels so i don't know if they will be strong or what.

I have a Dana 60 front with the big ass brakes, 14 bolt rear disc. kragen had two different bore size calipers for 3/4 ton trucks I used the bigger ones, should i have got the smaller bore size? also i have a 4runner booster, and the large Chevy brake master.

does anyone have experience with the different bore size rear calipers?
 

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Zeus of the Sluice
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if your sure its fully bled, and your pedal is still soft/hits the floor... ya need a bigger master.

Ford E350? 85 ish? (with an adapter)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The brakes could probably be bled more. I used the calipers with the 3 5/32 bore, not the 2 15/16. I think I need to use the smaller bore rear calipers. I have the largest chevy MC. Was courious which ones people have been using??
 

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The brakes could probably be bled more. I used the calipers with the 3 5/32 bore, not the 2 15/16. I think I need to use the smaller bore rear calipers. I have the largest chevy MC. Was courious which ones people have been using??
Ask this question in the pickup forum, they seem to have a lot of guys running tons with the Chevy MC. Sounds like air in the lines to me...
 

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Not sure if you tried this, but I smacked my calipers with a hammer and got more trapped air to bleed out. Worth a shot before yanking shit apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I was gonna try agin monday to bleed them, but im thinking ill just swap out the calipers for the smaller ones and be done with it.
if the brake pedal gets harder the more pump it does that mean there is air in the lines?
 

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I know this is going to sound stupid, and oneof you guys will give me shit about this, but why even run a booster? Here is my train of thought on this:

Why am I going to add another vacuum to my drivetrain? I know the booster adds power to the system, but if you rund a E350 or a Chevy 1 tonb master alone, you will have PLENTY of power to stop anything in place. I ran this master with no booster on my old Flatty with 60's fronmt and rear wil 38's. I never had a probvlem stopping the truck under any circumstances.

I will be doing teh same thing with my current cruiser. 1 ton Master with no booster should stop my front and rear 60's with disk brakes... Now for the jokes.

Dima
 

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I wasn't aware that the 3/4 ton trucks had two different size calipers. I think you did get too big of one. The smaller ones are all about the same as far as dimensions. The "metric" calipers off of a monti carlo are the same specs/bolt pattern just look a little different.

EDIT: Maybe 2wd vs 4wd is where you are getting the different sizes from?

I'm running all disk on my 1ton fj40 with a 1 5/16 master and stock minitruck booster and have great brakes but is a little hard to push. I'm on the hunt for a larger booster from a t100 or fj80 now.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I wasn't aware that the 3/4 ton trucks had two different size calipers. I think you did get too big of one. The smaller ones are all about the same as far as dimensions. The "metric" calipers off of a monti carlo are the same specs/bolt pattern just look a little different.

I'm running all disk on my 1ton fj40 with a 1 5/16 master and stock minitruck booster and have great brakes but is a little hard to push. I'm on the hunt for a larger booster from a t100 or fj80 now.
Yea, if you look on kragen website and use a 1985 Chevy K20 two caliper sizes are available. the bigger one is for the Dana 44 HD. I'm going to kragen right now to get the smaller ones. I got a 95' 4 runner brake booster its pretty big dual diaphragm, i had to space it out off the fire wall about 1/4 inch to clear the clutch master bolt and emergency brake cable. I looked at the mini booster, it was only single diaphragm, and I also checked out the T100. The problem i found with the T100 was that it didn't have a built in spacer/ bulge on the back of the booster ware it mounts to the fire wall to space it out like the 4 runner booster does. Check it out.
 

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That is a pretty nice set-up. I'm not running the factory e-brake or a clutch so that should work. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK, I got it!! I put the smaller bore calipers on, bled the brakes again, and they feel GREAT!! If i was gonna compare them to some other brakes, they feel like the brakes in my 2004 F250. YEA BUDDY!!

I still need to bleed them again. If anyone is interested the combo I used was

1985 Chevy K30 (non hydro-boost) Master Cylinder 1 5/16 bore (the big one) + 1995 Toyota 4 Runner booster (non ABS, Dual Diaphragm) + stock Dana 60 front calipers + 1985 Chevy K20 3/4 ton 4x4 small piston 2 15/16 front calipers, rotors from same truck.
 

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I was thinking it sounded like you needed to bleed the brakes more thoroughly. You think there is a chance you just got it blead instead of the bore size? Just wondering. Besides it's fixed and that's all that matters
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Probably a combination of the two. But I do think those other calipers were to big, the sock drum cylinders are only 1 1/16 so even with the smaller calipers you are pushing more fluid then was designed, and the bigger ones was just to much. Oh well live and learn besides it was only 1.5 hour out of my day to get to kragen and back and re do them.
 
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