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im considering upgrading my 60S rear hubs from 8mm studs (that keep sheering behind my 350 chev) to the bigger 10mm studs found in 78/79 and 100 series cruisers. I know of several people who have drilled and taped their existing hubs to accomodate the 10mm studs and dropped a larger taper in the axle for the larger conical washers, but

will 78S/79S hubs (both drum) fit on a 60S axle ?

:confused:
 

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Most axels here in the states are semi-float, but seeing as I just bought a FF from down under this is a good question, I think my axel already has 10mm studs in the hubs, is that not standard?
What size are the studs in the front hubs?
 

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Ok I just measured my studs and they are 8mm :( so how often are you sheering the 8mm studs? Is your SB350 stock or modified? Did you keep the studs at the rite torque?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
all cruiser full floater rears till 1998 had 8mm studs with the mini cone washers.

my chev motor is pretty mild and im only spinning 37s

but ive sheared the studs 6 times now and im mighty sick of it.

you can upgrade to the 10mm studs (as fitted to post 1998 cruisers) incl the 78/79 (new coil front ute and troopy) and 100 series (and probably LX470)

by simply drilling out your old hubs and taping in the 10mm studs. This also requires droping a bigger taper in the axle flange for the larger cone washers.

This is relatively common in Aust (as far as i have investigated) but i just thought it might be easier to just swap the entire hub for a newer 78/79/100 series hub. BUT

i just found out that the newer hubs are also 5 wheel stud pattern

the 78/79 are still drum

anyway, long story short,

im going to drill out my old hubs to fit the 10mm studs/

im told i wont have any dramas with studs sheering after that (ill just snap axles instead :)
 

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planb said:
all cruiser full floater rears till 1998 had 8mm studs with the mini cone washers.

my chev motor is pretty mild and im only spinning 37s

but ive sheared the studs 6 times now and im mighty sick of it.

you can upgrade to the 10mm studs (as fitted to post 1998 cruisers) incl the 78/79 (new coil front ute and troopy) and 100 series (and probably LX470)

by simply drilling out your old hubs and taping in the 10mm studs. This also requires droping a bigger taper in the axle flange for the larger cone washers.

This is relatively common in Aust (as far as i have investigated) but i just thought it might be easier to just swap the entire hub for a newer 78/79/100 series hub. BUT

i just found out that the newer hubs are also 5 wheel stud pattern

the 78/79 are still drum

anyway, long story short,

im going to drill out my old hubs to fit the 10mm studs/

im told i wont have any dramas with studs sheering after that (ill just snap axles instead :)
was that from my other post? damn i wrote tech in the other topic :flipoff2: i hate writing tech and seeing cross posts.

those guys dont have full floaters or 78/79 series rhys. So yeah.... bearings are bigger too.
 

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Some guys here have added 4 extra dowels to the space between the studs. It seems to work well.
 

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Cruzilla said:
So what is the correct torque for the FF hub studs??
15-20 ft lbs
 

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What do you guys think of removing the dowels and drill/tapp and install a set of grade 8 bolts, maybe install two more on the other sides, that way you got cone washers/studs and grade 8 hardware holding stuff together.
 

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FF rear hub failures

With all the talk on the various boards of upgrading the rear FF hub studs to 10 mm, I thought I'd share a personal observation. When I rebuilt my rear axle (160,000km) I saw rust at the point where the studs enter the hub. The dowel pins were involved to a degree but not as bad:



It seems that the space under the cone washer tends to trap moisture on vehicles used under severe conditions and the studs get severely weakened by the rust. After wire brushing the rust off, intact steel remaining on the stud is reduced by quite a bit:



I know that some people believe the hub failures are related to the dowel pins as they carry most of the load. But could Toyota have realized this problem and upgraded these studs to 10 mm in the 100/78/79 series?

I replaced all the studs with new 8mm ones from Toyota, but I am contemplating on using the 10 mm studs if I can locate the correct countersink drill bit for the hub and axle shaft flanges.

Dave
 

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So when you drilled yours out to 3/8"s did you use some type of cone washer?
 

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I don't think that US standard full float stuff ie. Dana/ Spicer run cone washers, they just bolt up. Correct me if I'm wrong:)
 

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Cruzilla said:
I don't think that US standard full float stuff ie. Dana/ Spicer run cone washers, they just bolt up. Correct me if I'm wrong:)
This is correct, at least on everything i've ran. Thats why i didn't bother. Like BJ said just make sure their tight and your golden.
 

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Cruzilla said:
I don't think that US standard full float stuff ie. Dana/ Spicer run cone washers, they just bolt up. Correct me if I'm wrong:)
Very correct... D60, 14 bolt... no cone washers...

This may be even more important once we get aftermarket shafts made, they may not cut the taper for the cones...

So run some standard bolts...

I even thougt about running bolts with holes throught the head (such as a spindle on a drum front axle)... that way safety wires could be used to prevent them from coming loose enough to casure failure... Any comments on doing this?
 

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cruiseroutfit said:


Very correct... D60, 14 bolt... no cone washers...

This may be even more important once we get aftermarket shafts made, they may not cut the taper for the cones...

So run some standard bolts...

I even thougt about running bolts with holes throught the head (such as a spindle on a drum front axle)... that way safety wires could be used to prevent them from coming loose enough to casure failure... Any comments on doing this?
I would think so long as the axle is precisely centered in the hub, there would be no need to worry about cone washers. I would just make sure I was running good quality bolts, not the chinese crap sold at most hardware stores.

As for wire, it'd be up to you. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it (I really don't like drilling hardened steel either.)
 

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You could use some of those lock tabs, they go under the bolt one side bends down , the other side bends up to lock the bolt in place.
 

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This stuff comes up on LCML every coupla months...anyway, this new idea sprung up about running "Belleville" washers. Supposedly been workin' pretty well for old Wayne from Crusher's Rule... I'm thinkin' I'll give 'em a try. Anyway, just another idea to throw out there...

He used the M4 90895A009 (he thinks)

http://www.yankeetoys.org/stewarts/3001.pdf

-Ferg-
 
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