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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone make one?? And for that matter, why do I need a crush sleeve? IF I could figure out a way to use shims like a dana, is there really a need for a crush sleeve??

Thanks

OX
 

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just use the crush sleeve.
shimming for prelaod is a PITA compared to a sleeve.
Just make sure you have a big honking impact gun.
 

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My Cherokee came a Dana 30 front that had a crush sleeve. When swapped gears and locker I had a local drag race shop convert the rearend to shims. Worked fine. I'm sure you could have the same done to the 14bolt.
 

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The 14 bolt crush sleeves have no problems that I'm aware of. I have made a spacer for the new dana 60 RC gear sets. because of rotation when used in the rear, it puts the load on the sleeve. I set it up with the sleeve, take apart measure the sleeve, machine a spacer just less than the measured sleeve. Done about 5, all still working.
 

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USFSIHC said:
...1 1/2 sockets only come in 3/4'' drive ...
You need to check the tools out again.
I have 1 1/2" sockets that are 1/2" drive. You can get 'em from Sears, Snap-On, etc.
 

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JeepinIan said:


You need to check the tools out again.
I have 1 1/2" sockets that are 1/2" drive. You can get 'em from Sears, Snap-On, etc.
That may be, I tried finding one recently and all I could find was 3/4 drive. But I dare you to tighten down a 14 bolt pinion nut with it! I broke 2 of them trying. They make adaptors to go 3/4 to 1/2 too but that dont make it right.
 

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USFSIHC said:


That may be, I tried finding one recently and all I could find was 3/4 drive. But I dare you to tighten down a 14 bolt pinion nut with it! I broke 2 of them trying. They make adaptors to go 3/4 to 1/2 too but that dont make it right.
But, that is why they make air tools! A good 1/2" gun will ro the trick.
 

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JeepinIan said:
But, that is why they make air tools! A good 1/2" gun will ro the trick.
I tried crushing the sleeve on my 12 bolt with my uncles 3/4 inch snap on gun. It worked, but it was slow because of my compressor. However it was still waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better than doing it by hand. Hold shit that was a work out and then some.
 

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we use a 1" Bosch electric gun for the crush sleeves. I forget the model number but it's rated for 750ft-lbs. this past summer I saw a crew using the same gun to install 2" steel armor on the DRM bridge. I don't know why that made me happy, but it did.
 

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You could make a solid spacer. It just has to be the right length to create enough preload between the bearings.

Nine inch ford daytona pinion supports use solid spacers. I believe that their may be some issues with the strength of the crush sleeve.

When I rebearinged my daytona support, the preload was very high at 80 inch pounds and not adjustable because of the solid spacer. Under the recomendation of a rearend guy, I ran it like that. It ran hot for a while, but now it runs normal temp after the bearings broke in.

On my new pinion support, I am going to use a crush sleeve and take the length of the sleeve after it is installed and crushed to the specified preload and make a solid spacer based on the length of it.
 

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If your crush slieves have already been set DO NOT GUN THEM ON. I put a new yoke on mine after gear man set it up, and i asked how to tighten it, he said, locktite it, and tighten until snug and then a little more with a hand RATCHET.

As for the shims, i think that they might be necicary in the RC 60, but i hate them in my LC diff, when they wear out they are a PITA to set back up, theres nothing wrong with a crush sleave in a 14 bolt if set up right in the first place.

Ian-
 

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I'd buy an extra socket or two! You will often need them. If you don't then you can at least return them. Nothing like having to go to the store for a replacement after one breaks... I recall the GM sleeves are quite a bit harder to crush--my buddy worked at GM and got me a few at his cost so maybe these are a bit stronger???

Jason :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That is basically what I did. I needed to replace pinion seal. I did and tightened it up until it felt like pinion bearing pre-load was good (I've set up some rears, so I have a decent feel for it). For some reason, the pilot pinion bearing came apart (cage intact, but bearings all over), maybe preload wasn't enough and pinion moved around damaging pilot?? It broke part of a ring gear tooth (heel end), punched hole in my cover, chewed up pinion head bearing and heel ends of most of the pinion teeth. Randy's R & P claims you can take 1/5 of a gear tooth off and be OK. The pinion looks runable. Anyway, I go though lots of seals on the diffs as this is a mudder and I don't want to use crush sleeve every time I need to do a seal (gotta love Danas). I will use crush sleeve this time and next time have a solid spacer made from that crush sleeve. Thanks for all the replies.

OX
 
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