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Discussion Starter #1
i went to get the parts for my rear disc brakes to day... spend under 150 bucks..

brackets came from local show i paid 10 for the pair
ya can find these same style brakets at A-A for roughly 10 bucks each

list of parts needed. and cost..

2 brackets from A-A part number aa-049- a,b,c (depending on style)
2calipers from auto zone part number c160 and c161 these are front brake calipers for a 1985 buick there the metric calipers from gm the smaller ones..
2 rotors for my set up corp 14 i needed 8 lug so rotors were part number 5523 times 2
1 sets of pads for 1985 cutlass part numer mkd154
total cost..

brackets-$10
calipers-27.98(with 20 dollar core so there 47.98with out)
rotors- 49.98
pads - 22.49

for a grand total of $110.45
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the bracket i got locally.. and i dont see where runnin the smaller caliper will hurt.. they run them on stock cars and circle track cars.. and will help cut the need for 16 inch rims.. to my understanding.. the brakcets only cost me 10 bucks total.. so it wouldnt have cost less if i ordered themm .. due to shippin.. etc..
 

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I just bought basically the same for my 60 disc conversion, I did go with the bigger GM calipers though , I bought brake hose also AZ pn 77186 for the soft hose to the caliper, I still gotta get the caliper bolts and banjos for the hose into the caliper, I get a 20% discount because I work there PT! :flipoff2:
 

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payton said:
the bracket i got locally.. and i dont see where runnin the smaller caliper will hurt.. they run them on stock cars and circle track cars..
but they are only trying to stop 30-50 lbs of rotating mass, as oposed to 100+lbs for a mud tire.

thats like saying a bb gun will kill a squirl, so it ought to kill a dear.
not a apples to apples comparison

go outside and put a gallon of water in a 5 galon bucket. now swing it around as fast as you can and see how much effort it takes to stop it. then put 4 more galons in there and do it again.. you will see why it does make a diferance.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i do see what ur saying. now that i look back at it .. i can always return them and go with the bigger calipers... thanks.. iprobally wouldnt have thought bout that ..
 

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but they are only trying to stop 30-50 lbs of rotating mass, as oposed to 100+lbs for a mud tire.
That'd be a great theory if it were correct:flipoff2:

Trouble is, the job of the brakes is not to just stop the rotating mass of the tire/wheel. It's to convert the kinetic energy of the entire vehicle in motion to heat via friction.

Yea, the racecar will have small, light wheels and smaller mass than a truck, but when you consider the exponentially higher velocity, there's a lot of kinetic energy there, and of course the brakes on a racecar REALLY have to work well.

Sure, 1 ton trucks have huge calipers because they're designed to haul down a huge amount of GVW from highway speeds.

But on a crawler, I bet you'll be fine with the smaller calipers.
 

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You want to have VERY strong brakes on a rockcrawler, especilay if an automatic is gonna be used. One of the biggest problems with running an auto ina rock buggy is being able to stop it without throwing it in neutral.
Even with a manual, if you ever want to run cutting brakes, which is almost mandatory in a serious rock rig anymore, you are gonna need to be able to hold those rear tires under some very strenouse conditions.
I would choose the strongets brakes you can fit and afford, and thank yourself for it later.
 

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Jeff,

I here what you're saying, and agree with it - but would venture that that sort of "braking power" is more largely a function of the entire system and valving, especially the relationship between MC bore, caliper piston bore and pedal ratio, as well as type of booster, than just the size of the caliper piston.

That said - yes, just like your trolley jack, small input diameter, large output is best.
 
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