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Discussion Starter #1
So what have you guys done with the basic 16' trailer with the 1' sides on them? Any modifications you suggest or anything of that nature to get the most out of it? Whether it be widening and adding supports or just extra tie down points.

Let me see what you guys have pictures and writeup/ threads are always great

Thanks
 

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You're talking about a landscaping/utility trailer? The sides are structural. Not much you can do with em. Seen people build wood or steel ramps to hold a wide vehicle sitting on top of the railings but that's about it. They are ok for hauling small cars though you usually have to crawl out the window. Great for moving mowers and hauling junk. Not ideal for moving trail rigs around though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It will not have a huge trail rig on it really. Heaviest will be a ranger maybe. Plan is atv and popup on it though.
 

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I'd just get one of the pop ups with a front deck for the quad.
 

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There's a thread on trailer modifications floating out there. Many of them apply to any trailer, not just 16 footers with 1' sides on them.

Something about "The little things, trailer edition" in the title. The search button is your friend to find it for you.
 

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I've had a 16' PJ utility trailer for years, and it's worked fine for hauling my 5000lb 4Runner around Colorado and Utah. I did put slightly heavier springs on it, and slightly larger tires (e-rated 225/75-15) so it would sit a little flatter behind my Excursion.

I need to re-deck it, and am planning to cut the rails down in the back and build some sort of "dove ramp" that'll let me drive on it without getting out the regular ramps. Needing the ramps to load my rig is my only complaint about the trailer.

Everyone says the rails on a utility trailer are structural, but I'm not at all sure about that. If you compare mine to a 4" C-channel PJ car hauler, they are essentially identical. Check for yourself at PJ's site.

Here's a pic:



Mark
 

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I was at a trailer dealer, can't remember brand, in Chambersburg and the car hauler and the utility had somewhat similar construction aside from the sides but I noticed on the car hauler the channel formed the frame from the a frame back to the back of the axle and had 16" centers on x members and a piece of channel reinforcing the front where the pie cuts are. The utility had a channel tongue and a much thinner steel frame which went back to the axles. No channel reinforcement at the front, and something like 20 or 24" centers. Basically just lighter weight. Made me think it wouldn't last very long with the pipe and angle sides cut off.
 

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Understood. The PJ's - with the same size C-channel, which is a big deal, of course - look to be the same. Mine's an '03, which may make a difference, and OP didn't say what brand or vintage his was.

Where in WV are you? I grew up in Cross Lanes.

Mark
 

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I grew up in Wetzel County, 35 mins for Ohio, 5 mins from PA and an hour West of Morgantown. I live all the way out I'm Charles town now, an hour from DC. I worked in teays Valley for a while and I lived in Charleston for a semester while doing an internship in college though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well tried to load my popup this weekend. Turned out the popup was an inch to wide. Any ideas how to squeeze an inch out of the rails to make it fit
 

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Well tried to load my popup this weekend. Turned out the popup was an inch to wide. Any ideas how to squeeze an inch out of the rails to make it fit
Got a sawzall, grinder, and a welder?:flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sure do haha I was thinking cut the rails to about 3" off the deck and then just weld a tube or angle back on.. What does pirate think
 

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planning to cut the rails down in the back and build some sort of "dove ramp" that'll let me drive on it without getting out the regular ramps. Needing the ramps to load my rig is my only complaint about the trailer.


Mark
Why, exactly, do you need ramps? You have a lifted, crawler, 4runner. It should get right on there without ramps.
 

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I think you will find that you destroy the angle where it welds to the frame, and will either end up with shorter (and therefore less strong, because they are structural) sides, or you will have to buy new steel, which is expensive. I also think you will find there is no way to weld them a few inches further out because they go straight down to the frame. What will you weld them to that is 3" out? You'll have to weld on spacers or something. And you would actually need an inch and a half on both sides or you would have to live with knowing the whole thing was a quarter of a foot lopsided which I couldn't do.

Go on Craigslist. See how much your trailer is selling for vs one that's the right width. I wanted a drop deck skid steer style trailer and I had an old deckover. Posted here about buying new drop axles and 8 lug hubs and making it a drive over fender. Then sold it on Craigslist for $2300 and bought a way newer 10k brimar drop deck for $1900. Even if I would have had to pay it would have been worth it.
 

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Why, exactly, do you need ramps? You have a lifted, crawler, 4runner. It should get right on there without ramps.
I might not once the rails are off, or the back few feet removed. The rails are 83" apart, and my front track width is... 83". It's really tough to hit it perfectly.

Mark
 

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I had one for a long time, I cut the angle sides off, added a 16' piece of 1x2x.250 on each side and it was strong as fawk. Hauled my 6200lb beast up the mountain many times. I upgraded because of axle capacity and 4 wheel brakes.

Yeah, that's the thing. Buy $200 or $300 in steel, a few days grinding and welding and you still don't end up with exactly what you need. When he could probably sell as is and get a car hauler for within a few hundred bucks of what his sells for.
 

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Yeah, that's the thing. Buy $200 or $300 in steel, a few days grinding and welding and you still don't end up with exactly what you need. When he could probably sell as is and get a car hauler for within a few hundred bucks of what his sells for.
It's defiantly not ideal, the steel cost me $65 but I know that's not what it typically costs, I also think .120 would have been fine. I cut the rails Ina way that I could bend them down and weld them to the frame of the trailer and they made some strong ramps to drive over the fenders. Not ideal but it worked and my buddy still hauls his runner on it.
 

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Not all of these trailers with the built in sides are going to fall apart after the sides are cut off.

It's takes knowing visually what kind will and what kind won't to decide if cutting them off will make a difference.
 
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