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Your willys looks great out on the trails! Always fun to get out on an adventure. No matter how thought the trails are. Quick question. Why do you pull the choke to get over obstacles?? You jeep runs better rich?
 

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Discussion Starter #462
A couple summers ago I spent a fair bit of time time cleaning, measuring, tuning and fiddling with the original carburetor to get everything running right. I came across a really neat tech manual written back in the late 40's or early 50's on the Carter WO and in that, it actually said the designed air fuel ratio at idle is something like 10:1.

When I tuned it, I found it ran best a little leaner than that, in the 12:1 range (don't remember exactly). In playing with things, going richer (to a point) seemed to improve the off idle stall resistance. At one point I got it running well enough that I could take off from a stop in 3rd (as in 1:1 high gear). Over the last two summers it has gone downhill a bit, and then moving from 2000 ft elevation to... 200 ft? didn't help much and I haven't adjusted anything since the move.

As it sits now I think I'm idling at around 13:1. When I bump the idle up a bit, it is solidly above 13, maybe even 14:1. So adding some choke richens it up and seemed to help.
 

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Flipping the motor back over, here you can see everything buttoned up and ready to go. Got my rear main on correctly (finally), oil pickup mounted, oil pump mounted (external BTW), tripple checked to make certain that every single oil galley plug is in place...


Oil pan on


A few notes I wanted to add about the oil pump (grey/silver thing on the side of the block). There are two versions, one for the timing gear (most civillian) and one for the timing chain engines (all MB/GPW). The difference is that the camshaft spins the other way on those, and the gear on the camshaft and oil pump are different. As a result, the distributor actually spins the same direction for both models, but the two oil pump (gears) are different and not compatible. I found this out the hard way, my first oil pump was for the other style. This oil pump, btw is a Melling.

I have some more oiling system tech on the way, I'll take care of that in the next post.
A few other finishing touches...

Rebuilt the fuel pump (fun little rebuild). I would really like to find a glass site bowl for this...



Cleaned up the distributor. I need to actually rebuild this with new bearings and a Pertronix pickup. As another option I see that Omix Ada now has an all new electronic distributor, and it actually costs about the same as a retrofit kit for my old dist. I'm a little wary of an Omix dist.... any thoughts?



Since there's no drive gear on this (it is driven by the oil pump) it wouldn't be that hard to maybe change to an completely different dist. It has me wondering what it would take to do a GM HEI. This one spins counterclockwise, I think the GM's are the other way...
Very nice build thread. Lots of good, useful info I've learned.

One quick question, if you're still monitoring posts on this thread, is; do you need to pull the distributor (as it's driven off the oil pump) in order to remove the oil pump? I've got to replace the pump in my engine... or, find the mysterious reason I've got 0 pressure.

Funny part; look all over the Web for info, and find the info I want on a site I already visit, from a guy, whom lives in my same country, probably on 10 miles from my house.
 

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Discussion Starter #464
Well as far as I know you should be able to pull the oil pump without touching the distributor. When you put it back in you will have to be careful to line things back up keeping in mind the oil pump gear will turn a bit as you slide the oil pump in.

When I changed my distributor a few years ago I found the original rusted in the block and pulled the oil pump hoping that pushing on the dist from the oil pump end might help. (It didn't but the oil pump came out fine).

Funny about the location, I've had stranger things happen. Like once I called a friend just to chat, hadn't talked to him in quite awhile. He lived in the SW and I lived in PA at the time. I mention offhandedly that I was flying out to Kauai in a month and find out he is too, and staying just a few blocks from me. Had I not called I thought boy that would have been crazy to just bump into him on a walk, as the path we like to walk ran right by his place.
 

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Well as far as I know you should be able to pull the oil pump without touching the distributor. When you put it back in you will have to be careful to line things back up keeping in mind the oil pump gear will turn a bit as you slide the oil pump in.

When I changed my distributor a few years ago I found the original rusted in the block and pulled the oil pump hoping that pushing on the dist from the oil pump end might help. (It didn't but the oil pump came out fine).

Funny about the location, I've had stranger things happen. Like once I called a friend just to chat, hadn't talked to him in quite awhile. He lived in the SW and I lived in PA at the time. I mention offhandedly that I was flying out to Kauai in a month and find out he is too, and staying just a few blocks from me. Had I not called I thought boy that would have been crazy to just bump into him on a walk, as the path we like to walk ran right by his place.
Well you can remove and replace the oil pump without pulling the distributor, however, it seems all but impossible to align the distributor gear with the oil pump slot, while installing the oil pump. I finally just moved the rotor shaft to align everything. This, of course, means I need to adjust spark timing to compensate for the movement... and my distributor was also seized in the engine block. However, using an oil filter wrench on the distributor housing, and working it back and forth, lots of penetrating oil, and about an hour's work, it loosened up and I got my engine running again. Thanks for your help.

And to the engineer whom designed this engine; the location for the timing marks sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #466 (Edited)
And to the engineer whom designed this engine; the location for the timing marks sucks.
That's for sure!

A little late, but in my case I finally got my distributor loose by clamping a chain style vice grip on it and "tapping" it back and forth with a short heavy hammer. Glad you got it apart and back together. I'm pretty sure I have installed my oil pump with the dist in but maybe I'm just remembering things wrong or maybe I did have to turn it a bit to get the key to line up. In any case glad you got it.
 

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Sounds like the timing on those old things was pretty much set it and forget it! I've encountered lots of seized things but luckily a distributor wasn't one of them.
 
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