JR Plumbing looking good! One addition to the breathers lines you installed are vents (located behind the distributor) and tees I need to get from summit. Since they are $4 each I have a few things for the next order. Not sure what happened to the hal sensor bottoming out on the belt
Couple other shots of the first pass on the grill and roll cage.
I have been following your build for a couple of years. It is awesome!
I am a little confused by the plumbing on the transmission and T case. It appears it is mixing transmission and transfer case fluid (they are the same but generally not mixed). Also the inlet and outlet on the T case both appear to be above the normal fluid level. So I am curious the theory and how it works.
Thanks for all the props guys! Couldn't of achieved this without all the contributions from everyone involved so they are well deserving in the glory too.
This is the flow chart for the transmission and t case. The fluid is all GL5 for the transmission and cooling loop. The transfer case use autotrac fluid due to the chain and clutches inside. The t case is super beef. The torque rating is around 2340 ft #s for a 11500# H1. Predator motorsports offers a disengagement for AWD wo adding a shift lever and will add that mod later.
Where is our two week update? I know Tom, and who has to be a great friend, are spending 4 - 24hr days on this project at a time. Probably painting and polishing... trying to stay ahead of JR. The good news is that this probably reduces the clutter around the shop.
A lot of ideas have to be executed... Like hiding the roll bar in the roof over the headliner. And we haven't seen any of that futuristic wiring yet.
Ok so this is what the headliner will resemble. The front valance is done but two sides and a rear section will be formed and a center panel will be similar to this.
Back to the task at hand. Lots of body work ongoing rust prevention, and seam sealing.
Opted to fill the gaps with the LORD non sag seam sealer where the cage nut are on the bottom and top tailgates attach to the hinges to prevent water passing thru them and where the layers of sheet metal on the body meet. This seam sealer is the best sand-able product I have used so far.
Sliding window drip rail. Used two coats of the master series silver and two top coats of the ag111 and used these flux brushes and put a bend in them to hit the undersides. Will plug all remaining holes with seam sealer.
After lots of sanding using guide coat through 320 grit. Sprayed Evercoat polyester primer and wet sanded 800 grit. By using a little soap and water you can spray on the primed body part and simulate what the clear coat will look like and see further imperfections.
The floors needed filler where they were tack to the hat channels underneath the body and got them all smooth and prepped for Raptor Liner.
Looking so good! Really stellar work! Thanks for posting some of the details of materials and methods on your prep and painting work. I haven't done anything but rattle can jobs, and will be stepping up my game on my current build. Your posts really provide a lot of great ideas and specifics of products. I especially appreciate the rust prevention specifics- living in WA with lots of rain...so I want to do the best I can on that stuff. I like the way you handled the rust prone seams like at the wheel well joints in an earlier post and the LORD seam sealer details around the tailgate in this one. It's really looking great! Amazing build!
Thanks CJ3BL! I had bookmarked some of the products a while ago for the time body work resumed. Information sharing is important and to gain and share knowledge is key.
When recently going into the local paint supply places to get materials all these new products were being mentioned so we needed to wrap our collective heads around incorporating them.
Rust prevention was the highest priority for the body prep. You can always repaint 10 years down the road but nobody wants to replace body panels (if you can find them in 20 years from now) especially ones like on this things with all the recesses and bead rolls.
So it gets down to the places rust occurs is where water/salt seep into especially large tires with aggressive treads spraying these elements. Seams where panels meet and where weatherstripping lets go. Most will just paint over it and call it good. Problem is body flex and the seam sealers have more flexibility than paint.
Not much of an update however this is where we left off at the end of June.
Was hoping to get a lot farther but the body prep and everything done so far took way more effort time and budget than expected. After all the bed liner and body prep was done we needed to seal everything up for a strategic retreat. Also got the tailgate and undersides of the fenders done with raptor liner. Found another couple pictures where we mounted the seats. JR welded bases that follow the contour of the floor.
3 project deliveries at work took me out of action July-Sept. Not to mention I tore something in my shoulder, needed to purchase another daily driver and helping aging parents. Going to get back to things asap
Thanks for posting the videos on the Lord body work materials. Really interesting info and ideas to keep the rust at bay! Thanks for posting the new pics too. Looking really great! Hope that your shoulder gets better and that you get some time to get back on the project. It's a really impressive build- full of cool ideas and technique tips. Thanks for posting!
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