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Nice, I like that access panel. Love the speed holes everywhere too :D

If I ever get more space, I think I want to pick up or build a bead roller, I love that look.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Thanks for the compliments guys. I plan on using many more access panels just to make routine maintenance a bit easier. And the speed holes not only look cool, but are a necessity since the 22re only makes about 116hp. My frame and skids are heavy but that's a sacrifice to keep things safe.
The 4runner I'm gutting for the running gear is a heavy pig. I'm guessing it weighs in around 4200 lbs. In stock form it was around 3600 lbs according to Wikipedia. With bumpers,tire carrier, bigger tires, winch and sliders I think 4200 is a safe guess.
I'm hoping to stay around 3500 with the willys.


Nice, I like that access panel. Love the speed holes everywhere too :D

If I ever get more space, I think I want to pick up or build a bead roller, I love that look.
I didn't use a bead roller for the panels. The beads were done on a Pullmax P5. My street rod buddy has a very nice Lazze bead roller but I find it hard to get consistent straight bends. As the material goes into the Lazze, the material wants to walk away from the backstop. It's an awesome machine with tons of uses but I've found that beads are easier and more consistent in the pullmax.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Progress! I've been doing sheetmetal work for what seems like an eternity now. Im really liking the way things are turning out. All of the panels are made from 18 gauge. I made nearly every panel with a 3/4" flange on at least one side, so that I could use screws to hold everything together before commiting to welding. Its way easier to remove a screw, than to drill out a spot weld.

I used #8 self-tapping screws to hold everything together. They do a good job of drawing the panels together if you have a small gap. I know some may say that I should have used clecos, but these have the same outcome. Either way you have a 1/8" hole through both panels that will need to be welded up. Clecos wouldve ran me about $50 for 25 clecos and the set of pliers shipped. I got 100 screws for $6 at Home Depot. Got to save some folding money for other parts.

Heres a couple of progress pics.





Working around the shock towers.





Floor pan dropped in.



As it sits now. Still need to do the drivers side.







Test fit the rear seat. This is alot of work to raise the tank and run a 40" rear seat, but I think it will be worth it in the end.

 

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Discussion Starter #107
Man, your sheetmetal work is looking SO great! Really beautiful work! Love the beads. Inspiring!
Thank you. It means alot coming from fellow builders on pirate. There is alot of very talented builder/fabricator/engineers on the forum. The willys section especially!:smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Excellent work! Do you want to come over and redo my hack job?
My plan is to swap my jeep with his in the middle of the night and hope he doesn't notice until he's worked his magic on the sheetmetal. :D
LOL. I've got to give credit where it is due. This whole project wouldn't be possible without my buddy Mr.B. He's an old time street rod guy that has helped me more than he'll ever know. He's 70 years old and sharp as a tack. He helps me with the willys, and I help him with odd jobs around his shop. He said he's willing to teach me on all of the machinery as long as I'm willing to learn. I really lucked up. This is my first rodeo with sheetmetal, but I have a really good mentor pointing me in the right direction. I'll let him know yall are liking the build. Thanks guys!
 

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Maybe I missed it, but how are you attaching the sheetmetal to the frame you made for the tub? Is that going to be welded, or screwed/bolted/riveted?
I'm approaching this juncture and I'd like to build a tub frame similar to what you have to use as a foundation for the new tub floor.

It's looking great by the way, I'm hoping to borrow some of your techniques when I get to restoring my tub.
 

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Discussion Starter #112 (Edited)
It will be welded to the 1"x2" and 1"x1" floor supports. Right know it is just screwed together. Once all of the panels are in and aligned I will weld it all up. Then pull the screws and weld up those holes. The screws are just a few extra sets of hands holding the panels for me. Once it's all welded up, it will be bolted through the floor supports to the frame. I'm using body mounts from a 72-75 CJ5. They are 2" round polyurethane pucks that are 5/8" thick with a 1/2" hole in the middle.

The floor supports are 1"x2" (14 gauge) and 1"x1" (14 gauge). All of the sheetmetal work is 18 gauge.
 

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Your project is coming along great. I am just curious how much leg room you will have between your front and rear seats. From the pictures, it looks like it will be pretty comfortable.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Your project is coming along great. I am just curious how much leg room you will have between your front and rear seats. From the pictures, it looks like it will be pretty comfortable.
It should be enough room for an adult to sit comfortably. The rear seat will be leaned back quite a bit to give a tad more room also. Next time I'm at the barn I'll toss a seat in it to get a measurement for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #115
Alright guys, the rear floor is all screwed together. Heres a pic, Im very happy with how it turned out.



As much as Ive grown to dislike sheetmetal work, here is a simple repair I wanted to share that someone might pick up and use on their rig.
I had a bad spot that needed to be repaired, so made a small wood hammerform to form the metal. Heres the hole that I needed to fill.



Heres the hammerform. Its 18g steel, sandwiched between two pieces of 3/4" MDF. I slowly started to work steel down with a deadblow, then I used a flat profile body hammer to make the edge a little more crisp. Then I continued around the bottom edge of the lower hammerform to create the "J" bend.







100 tacks later, and a little bit of grinding, and this is the result.



 

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That metal work is great!

Soak up all of that knowledge you can, because even if you are getting tired of it now, that is a skill that most of us would love to have.

And when the project is done, that metal work will get talked about by anyone that walks by...and knows anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #120
Thanks fellas, I really appreciate the kind words. They are great motivation to keep plugging away.

More progress! I got the body off of the 4runner. Got the rolling chassis back in the barn and the harness hooked back up. I've got it running on the bare minimum of wiring and I've started to thin the harness. The engine and fuel injection will have its own standalone harness, completely separate from the chassis harness.



 
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