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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my 1972 ScoutII Bomber Build. The Blue Bomber.

Since 2006 the Scout has gone through several changes as it was my work truck and daily driver. I went through several rear dana 44's till I had to post her up behind my dads barn for several years. Then I had some kids, 2 cutest little girls. I've finally got my act together and decided to start my build. I've collected parts over the past 2 years and now I've came a long way's and am mid build into this mess. So enjoy the bit of history and build!

Build Plans:
Full Propane 345
727 Automatic (auto valve manual body)
Low Stall Torque Converter
Dana 60 Front 4.56's
Radius Arms/3 link, Coil overs
Dana 70HD Rear 4.56's
63” Leaf Rear with Iron Industries Shackle Sliders
42" IROKS on H1's
LOW AS POSSIBLE
New Cage

I'll start this off with a few pics from when I first got my Scout to what it is now. Several Pics from 2006 when I bought the Blue Beast to about 2010 after the third rear end went out and it sat for some years.




I then learned that a cage was a necessity and stopped spray tanning up my tires. Ya, thats me, big grin after my dad and I installed the cage.


Then started going to Glamis. I believe this is from 2009.

Everyone has a Tow Pic "This guys tailgating me!"


Joined Scouts West Club and started doing runs with them.


 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
So Now lets get to my Build. Since 4 years ago I have sold my cage and tires and slowly started stocking new/used parts.

My D&C Cage that I got rid of, with some help from my little Ginger.


She's my Lil Big Helper!




Got me some H1's cause I wanted Beadlocks. I had them sand blasted and powder coated. New O-ring's.
Oh and those are 42" IRoks that I got off a Pirate several years ago.





I'm sure you guys have seen me post this up somewhere....


So for about 2 more years she sat like this with Donuts


And then the Axles and Tires sat for a few years also, All bolted up with no where to go. Dana 60 front and Dana 70 Rear.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
So after I got done dickin around with the Rescue/RV and figuring I need to have a Toy since I could always borrow my dads trailer or pop a tent but I needed my damn Scout running!

Plan was to do the build at my Fathers since I dont have a working area nor enough power from my breaker box to run tools at my house.

First and fore most I needed to start her up after sitting in the back yard for 4 years and load her onto my flatbed. The best way to do that is to install a propane kit on it. Figured thats the best thing to do since I've never touched a Propane running vehicle in my life other than driving a forklift.

I bought a kit from NashFuel. These guys are awesome and very smart. I went with them because they were reasonably priced from what I found.
I followed the instructions and within a morning the 345 fired right up! Sitting for 4 years and it fired up with PROPANE! So fawkin awesome! And No it does not smell like eggs.






Got me a couple Aluminum Tanks too!



Got one bolted to some OSB in the bed for temporary transport.

 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So the Propane went in smoothly, very impressed with the throttle response too. Then I got to thinking that since I need to run coolant lines to the Propane Mixer to keep it from freezing over I wanted to have an inline temp gauge so I could see if the coolant changes temp when it exits the Propane Mixer. Hoping this may aid in the cooling system since the Propane will be burning a bit hotter than the Dino Goo does. Thanks again to caseyray63, he has helped me considerably on this propane adventure.

Grab your pencils, class in session. :smokin:
Propane Vehicle 101:
Propane flows from the bottle as liquid. Propane liquid is then converted to a vapor in the Propane Mixer. This reaction causes a huge drop in temperature thus freezing over the Propane Mixer. Eventually the veins inside the Propane Mixer will freeze closed and then the Motor starves for Fuel. To keep this from happening you run coolant lines from the motor to the Propane Mixer and back to the motor keeping Jack Frost from freezing chit up.
So I ended up getting these sweet inline gauges made by Modquad. I found them off of Amazon for around $50. These are for Dirt Bikes or Quads but I am using it for my coolant lines as inline temp gauges. I like that the gauge is oil filled so that the needle doesn't bounce while the motor is running. The temp probe extends all the way through the billet coupler. These are made to fit a 7/8 line so I had to do some custom fitting on my 5/8 radiator hose. I liked that they provided hose clamps also. Great Product!




Here you can see them both, one running from the water pump port to the Propane Mixer and the other from the Propane Mixer back to the Manifold. I ran the motor for about 30 mins and both temps got to 180 degrees. I was very disappointed to see no drop in temperature after the Propane Mixer. However, I didnt get to run the motor hard, so maybe on the 1st shake down run I'll confirm if there is a drop in temp to the Manifold or not.

 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
So another issue I came across was that I wanted to upgrade my throttle cable. Then I looked into throttle plates and wound up looking at Hot Rod Dress Up kits for kick down cables and chrome chit.

Screw it, I made my own from Aluminum. Drew it up, fired up a Laser, bent it 90, powder coated it and got me a throttle plate. Done.
You'll note I have no kick down, that's because I had my 727 worked over to an Auto Valve Manual Body. Waiting to order my Winters Shifter for it.




So now that I had the Scout running I could get her to move onto the trailer and to my dads house. I loaded up the axles first and got them to my dads.


Temporary home behind the Barn.



Then loaded the Scout...
You'll note that the front Donuts screamed a bit onto the trailer, I only had front wheel drive because the rear axle was toasted. At this point it is running fully off Propane. Take a good look at that wicked drag link! You don't know bumpsteer like I knew bumpsteer!

and my Helper with me for the transport.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I found some 63" Leafs off good ole' Craigslist. These were suppose to go up front on the Scout with the Dana 60 slung below them but after a huge debate and several Banquet Beers I decided to put them in the back with a set of Shackle Sliders from Liquid Iron Industries




I then took them down to Atlas Springs and had them take the overloads off, repined the center pin, new clips, new pads and added a Military Wrap on them.



 

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Discussion Starter #9
A few months ago in November 2015 I had a Work Day and lots of Scouts West Club Members came out to give me a hand ripping apart my Scout. This truly was the day that started this build. In one day we had everything down to just the frame and motor sitting in it.








Had tons of members show up...




 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Pretty much everything you'll read from here on out will be up to date work.

So since I have the frame all ground down to just the body mounts and boxed ends I started concentrating on the 345. The motor was rebuilt by the PO and I honestly only put maybe 5K miles on it since 2008. There was no need for me to do major motor work to it but I did want to fix a few leaks that I had. So on to the Engine stand (which was a fun several hours attaching the IH Mill to)

Well, because I cant leave chit alone and since this is my first ever real money pit I decided to add my own taste to this motor. New NPT fittings and powder coat all the parts and add some tech to the outside of the block. Thats right, I said Tech! West Coast ******* Engineering at it's best!

I got the Motor all prettied up, over spray all over the place. Had the Paint can "Making it Rain" on the block.


Took all the Brackets, Manifold, Valley Pan, Oil Pan, Valve Covers Etc down to get some Sand Thrown at them. Then had some parts Powder Coated with a Hammered Black.



I wanted to get the Exhaust Ceramic Coated but I'll wait for that None$en$e! So instead, good ole' Header Paint. Thats Header Primer Paint in the Pics. Had my Buddy down at my Woman's shop Bake the Paint on.


 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I then went to work on the Valley Pan...




Fixed that leaking problem, FOREVER! :smokin:




Looking back I probably should have used something like this instead of just a weld -10AN Bung. It has a built in PCV Valve in it.

Oh well, I planned on running a VW Bug Style Breather box on all the Motors breathing ports.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Then I went to work on the Valve Covers, if you noticed I had some Chrome Covers originally. Well, my Pops wanted them so I had another set laying around and decided to play with them a small bit.

Dont need you anymore.

Bah bye



Then took a good thing and made it gooder! I hope the Powder Coating doesn't cover up my bad ass weld grind weld splatter grind job. :smokin:


 

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^^^:smokin:

Btw might try connecting the -10 breather into a GM A.I.R. check valves at the exhaust collector deep"pan evac" effect reduces blow by and keeps plugs and valves clean. Moroso and vibrant offer a kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Now it's Valley Pan time!

Clean

Add some Snot

Get your Cork On

Snot the Valley Pan

And BAM! Torqued thoughs down to NOPE!


Now for the Mani Peddi

Add some Copper Tone

And if you ask nicely, she'll let you stick it in


Speaking of A Holes, this mitch gave me some problems. It's the Pressure Port side from the Water Pump.

But alas I got a hole to plug

 

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Discussion Starter #17
So you wanna see something sweet? Check out these ARP bolts for my Exhaust.





I see you eyeing that custom plate on the block down there. Ya, it's real. It's for my oil relocation filter cooler hose line kit thing. :homer:

Talk about QUALITY! I looked every where for a good Oil Filter Relocation Bracket. The guys at L&L Products really made one kick ars milled relocation bracket for your Oil Filter.



 

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Discussion Starter #18
:smokin:Warning Cool Tech-ish stuff ahead!:smokin:

So I wanted to re-locate my oil filter and at the same time add an oil cooler to the system. No one makes a custom fitting for direct block attachment to our IH mills. So I made one (actually a few of them, we'll talk about that later). I basically Laser Cut myself a 1/2" Aluminum plate with 4 bolt holes and 2 holes directly in place of the 2 oil holes. Return is the top hole and Pressure is the lower hole. I also had several gaskets made with the exact same dims as the plate. Then welded 2 -10AN bung Fittings from Amazon onto the Plate. What you see is is the first of it's kind, I'll be the first to blow my motor up if it doesn't work.

Bare skin

Gettin yur Gasket On

New Bolts for the Plate

Vahry Niaceee


Poser Pics

 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
The other day I had something big and black arrive at my door. No, it wasn't a California Black Bear, it was a PSC Remote Steering Reservoir! I plan on running Hydro Boost Brakes. I ordered a new Casing for my Sagnaw Power Steering Pump that deletes the reservoir on it. I ordered it through another Offroad Company that I dont even want to say there name to give them a mis guided shout out but I learned that I could have ordered my part directly from PSC as they were the ones this No Name Offroad Company was drop shipping it from.

What I'm still waiting for...


Some of this just showed up too. Body Bushings and my 63" Leaf Spring Bushings from Poly Performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
^^^:smokin:

Btw might try connecting the -10 breather into a GM A.I.R. check valves at the exhaust collector deep"pan evac" effect reduces blow by and keeps plugs and valves clean. Moroso and vibrant offer a kit.
Thanks for the tip. I am looking into that and also running all my motor breathers "PCV Lines" to a VW Bug Pack or somethan. Still entertaining ideas.

Update:
Sumbitch, I might need to do a GM A.I.R. check valve. Not sure if I'll burn it off but at least check valve it before heading back to the motor somehow. Best part, it comes in Black.
 

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