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1976 dana 44 front questions

13141 Views 21 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  81_Laredo
I have a chance to obtain some dodge 3/4 ton axles and am looking for whatever info anybody has about the front Dana 44.

Anything unsual about this year?
Length,spring width,disks?
Things I should be aware of?

I tried searching but only found stuff about 74 and earlier or 80 and later.


:)
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i know I have talked about 1975-1980 axles before, but I will repeat it again.
They will be full time axles, with unit bearing up front. Open knuckle, flat tops, disk breaks, etc. 3.55 or 4.10 gears. Dont remember the spring width up front, but I want to say it is 32".

Garrett
I found the thread you are refering to.I didn't search for flat tops.

Hick said:
Havent seen a dodge without dana 44 flat tops.. that is with open knuckle of course.

Now, the 75-80 kncukles are somewhat intresting, because they use the fulltime hubs... 80.5-93's use the generic ones tho.. i believe very similar to GM's.
Because of the unit bearing hubs, the 75-80 knuckles are unique and cannot use parts from any other dana 44 that i know of.

Also note that 73-74 dodges had 5 on 5.5, but drum breaks, 75-80 had 5 on 4.5, but no locking hubs, 80.5-84 had 5 on 5.5, and locking hubs, and then 85-93 had 5 on 5.5, normally auto hubs or drive flanges, and a central axle disconnect.
This info pertains to half ton dodges, 3/4 ton ones are the same, but have 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern.

Garrett
Anything else that anybody would like to add?
Cost of converting to regular hubs.
Are the unit bearings too much of a pain in the ass and too expensive or do they get a bad rep. from improper maintenance?
Most people talk about the unit bearings falling apart, etc, but also I have found that most people dont use maring grease, or dont use proper backspaced wheels. The people who do use proper backspaced wheels, and grease them every trip/3000 miles, seem to get around 30k out of a set. I have also heard of people replacing them every 1000 miles/every trip. PErsonally, I have 15k on my set, which were used hard by the last owner of the truck, and ran 36x14.5's. I pulled them apart (well, as far as I can get them) and not only do they still look new, but they are in excellent shape.

As far as converting them, milemarker has a kit (read: $$$, and I have a 5 on 4.5 kit for sale), or you need to swap the complete knuckle out assembilys off of another dana 44/10 bolt from the era (for 8 lug, that means a ford f-250, or a 73-87 chevy d44/10 bolt). Also, you will need to modify the tie rod from the doner truck to make it work with the narrower axle.

Personally, I put in a 10 bolt front end, but that was because I wanted 8 lug and 4.10 gears, not because of the unit bearing front end.

Garrett
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Personally, I think the frailtys of the full-time unit hub are greatly exagerated. The hub design is actually very similar in design to the hub that Dodge has used on all of the Dana 44's and 60's since '94.

With stock tires, and occasional greasing, I've seen them go well over 100K miles. With larger tires and harder use, the bearing life is reduced somewhat. The bearings are actually very large and strong, they just happen to be located very close together. In reality, the largest weaknesses of the full-time unit hub are the stub shafts and the puny bolt pattern found on 1/2 tons.

As for upgrading to convetional hubs, I think '80-'93 Dodge hubs and knuckles are the best.
tv_larsen said:

As for upgrading to convetional hubs, I think '80-'93 Dodge hubs and knuckles are the best.
I fetgot about those.. they are a dead bolt on.

Garrett
tv_larsen said:
[

As for upgrading to convetional hubs, I think '80-'93 Dodge hubs and knuckles are the best. [/B]
Sweet! thats the stuff I need to know,thanks!
I can probably find those at the wrecker for a reasonible price,

I havn't worked in 2+ years,the wife works 1 and 1/2 jobs right now so anything I do for my hobby has to be CHEAP.
tv_larsen said:
Personally, I think the frailtys of the full-time unit hub are greatly exagerated. The hub design is actually very similar in design to the hub that Dodge has used on all of the Dana 44's and 60's since '94.

With stock tires, and occasional greasing, I've seen them go well over 100K miles. With larger tires and harder use, the bearing life is reduced somewhat. The bearings are actually very large and strong, they just happen to be located very close together. In reality, the largest weaknesses of the full-time unit hub are the stub shafts and the puny bolt pattern found on 1/2 tons.

As for upgrading to convetional hubs, I think '80-'93 Dodge hubs and knuckles are the best.
how about cracked knuckles?! the fulltime stuff sucks. throw them as far as you can, no wait, sell them to people who think they are a good design.:flipoff2:

find some '80 and later stuff or grab GM 3/4 ton D44 outers. ;)
2
FULLSIZE said:
how about cracked knuckles?! the fulltime stuff sucks.
See, now we've got to qualify our responces. For a DD, I have very few issues with the full-time hubs. For a rock crawler, I'd never run the full-time hubs. Personally, I've never owned a full-time 44 for more than a month before I swapped it for a 60 or just conventional hubs.

How on earth do you crack a full-time knuckle? Then claim it's a fault of the full-time knuckle? Dude, if you're cracking these babies, you have no buisness running a 44 and better get a 60, fast! :flipoff2:

Full-time knuckle: These are MASSIVE compared to any other Dana 44 knuckle I've ever seen.


Whimpy part-time knuckle. :D


Sorry the pics are cut off at the top, I didn't realize my camera did that in close shots.
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While I'm at it, another comparison shot. The crappy full-time axle is the bottom one. ;)

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the parttime knuckles crack from the inside where the bearing is to the outside. it takes a little abuse, but when the swap is so easy and its planned to be abused, i say junk the stuff. just my .02..................

...........oh, and i have a 60:D
I ran a fulltime D-44 8 lug open diff with 44" Hawgs for the better part of a year and never broke anything. I wasn't getting on it super-hard, but they won't spontaneously explode either. As a side note I was getting it enough to partially break and stretch out a chain on my then 203 that was freshly rebuilt.

On the knuckle issue, I steered the thing going down hill (steep) and turning so hard the frame was flexing visibly and the tire was folded under the beadlock, and never had a knuckle problem.
And I did this a lot.

Also, the other full time axle I had with the small 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern had factory 3.23s and never really had any problems either.

Ryan
FULLSIZE said:
i have a 60:D
I know, I was just kidding you. :flipoff2:

Honestly, I've never heard of a knuckle problem on the ft4wd Dana 44 before now. I guess my point was if you plan to wheel that hard, any Dana 44 isn't going to be up to the task, full-time or not.
:p
hey got a question......in the process of replacing the large bearings on my 78 W150.....dont think that "C" spacer? was in the right place.....does it go between the roller bearings as a spacer? not having luck finding pics on the internet....

any info mucho appreciated
I hate to revive an old thread but looking through here for information on the dodge axles. Is there any way to tell externally about the axle disconnect (like on the cherokee axles) or the unit bearings (are they just the 5 on 4.5 or all of the 5 bolt axles?)?
There are 4 types of 1/2 ton D44 axles used on '72-'93 Dodge trucks, all of which are open, flat top knuckles.

The '72-'74 pickup D44 which is large bolt pattern (5 on 5.5"), uses external manual locking hubs and is almost always drum brake. Discs were an option in '74 at least, but no one seems to have selected it that I have ever found. They typically can be identified by the drum brakes and the stock Warn external hubs that were common for the era.

Next is the '75-'79 pickup and '74-'79 Ramcharger/Trailduster axle which is the full time 4WD version with the small (5 on 4.5") bolt pattern. They have no locking hub or wheel hub to protrude through the wheel. All are disc brake and while technically not a unit bearing, they do use two very thin bearings close together in the hub which tends to make them susceptible to wear and damage when used with large heavy tires and "dished out" wheels. The bearings can be greased with a grease gun through a hole in the rotor once the wheel is removed which is fortunate since they tend to get washed out and all sorts of debris in them by dunking them in water or mud. They can be identified by the smaller bolt pattern, the complete lack of anything sticking though the center of the wheel and just a castle nut on the end of the stub shaft in the center of the bolt pattern, visible through the wheel.

In '80-'84 Dodge went back to both the large bolt pattern and part time 4WD with automatic locking hubs. This is not to be confused with the later CAD axle as the automatic locking hubs are just that, locking hubs that work automatically when the transfer case is engaged. This axle is the only "conventional" D44 with large bolt pattern, disc brakes, solid axle housing with 1 piece inner axle shafts and the ability to easily swap in typical manual locking hubs. These can be identified by the conventional D44 housing, large bolt pattern and automatic hubs with a domed chrome cap, similar to a Warn Premium locking hub, minus the dial, and a metal sticker with "4WD" in the center. Many may have been converted to manual hubs by previous owners.

Last is the CAD D44 axles that first appeared very late in the '84 model year and were used through the end of the W series bodystyle in '93. All use the vacuum actuated Center Axle Disconnect system with the two piece driver side inner axle shaft, large bolt pattern and no locking hubs. They can be identified by the CAD actuator on top of the driver side of the housing, large bolt pattern and instead of a locking hub, there is just a smooth, slightly convex, stainless cap that hides a splined puck.
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There are 4 types of 1/2 ton D44 axles used on '72-'93 Dodge trucks, all of which are open, flat top knuckles.

The '72-'74 pickup D44 which is large bolt pattern (5 on 5.5"), uses external manual locking hubs and is almost always drum brake. Discs were an option in '74 at least, but no one seems to have selected it that I have ever found. They typically can be identified by the drum brakes and the stock Warn external hubs that were common for the era.

Next is the '75-'79 pickup and '74-'79 Ramcharger/Trailduster axle which is the full time 4WD version with the small (5 on 4.5") bolt pattern. They have no locking hub or wheel hub to protrude through the wheel. All are disc brake and while technically not a unit bearing, they do use two very thin bearings close together in the hub which tends to make them susceptible to wear and damage when used with large heavy tires and "dished out" wheels. The bearings can be greased with a grease gun through a hole in the rotor once the wheel is removed which is fortunate since they tend to get washed out and all sorts of debris in them by dunking them in water or mud. They can be identified by the smaller bolt pattern, the complete lack of anything sticking though the center of the wheel and just a castle nut on the end of the stub shaft in the center of the bolt pattern, visible through the wheel.

In '80-'84 Dodge went back to both the large bolt pattern and part time 4WD with automatic locking hubs. This is not to be confused with the later CAD axle as the automatic locking hubs are just that, locking hubs that work automatically when the transfer case is engaged. This axle is the only "conventional" D44 with large bolt pattern, disc brakes, solid axle housing with 1 piece inner axle shafts and the ability to easily swap in typical manual locking hubs. These can be identified by the conventional D44 housing, large bolt pattern and automatic hubs with a domed chrome cap, similar to a Warn Premium locking hub, minus the dial, and a metal sticker with "4WD" in the center. Many may have been converted to manual hubs by previous owners.

Last is the CAD D44 axles that first appeared very late in the '84 model year and were used through the end of the W series bodystyle in '93. All use the vacuum actuated Center Axle Disconnect system with the two piece driver side inner axle shaft, large bolt pattern and no locking hubs. They can be identified by the CAD actuator on top of the driver side of the housing, large bolt pattern and instead of a locking hub, there is just a smooth, slightly convex, stainless cap that hides a splined puck.

So if I'm reading this right, the dodge axles that are 5 on 5.5 and do not have a CAD and have the locking hubs (auto or adapted to manual) would be a good functional D44 swap due to the flat top knuckles. I understand that there are problems with the spring perch spacing and that the knuckles may not be easily swapped, but is there any other reason to avoid these?

Thanks
So if I'm reading this right, the dodge axles that are 5 on 5.5 and do not have a CAD and have the locking hubs (auto or adapted to manual) would be a good functional D44 swap due to the flat top knuckles. I understand that there are problems with the spring perch spacing and that the knuckles may not be easily swapped, but is there any other reason to avoid these?

Thanks
Spring perch spacing would depend on what you are trying to swap it into. I have no idea what you are talking about knuckle-wise, it's a very standard dana 44 front.
Travis..
Agreed, there shouldn't be any problems swapping the knuckles onto any of the common D44 axles with the same ball joints.

How about you tell us what you are trying to do and then we can tell you what you need to know. I assume you are scavenging for flat top knuckles? If that's the case you can use any of the '80-'93 1/2 ton axles for that as all use the same basic knuckle, spindle and hub setup. Any CAD axle can have manual hubs mounted on it though it's a bit redundant unless the CAD is permanently locked. Some CAD axles do lack a inner spindle bearing but it can easily be installed if you need it for your application.
Agreed, there shouldn't be any problems swapping the knuckles onto any of the common D44 axles with the same ball joints.

How about you tell us what you are trying to do and then we can tell you what you need to know. I assume you are scavenging for flat top knuckles? If that's the case you can use any of the '80-'93 1/2 ton axles for that as all use the same basic knuckle, spindle and hub setup. Any CAD axle can have manual hubs mounted on it though it's a bit redundant unless the CAD is permanently locked. Some CAD axles do lack a inner spindle bearing but it can easily be installed if you need it for your application.
I'm looking for an upgrade for my CJ. I like the Dana 44's and the heavier power wagon's already have the flat top knuckles. Now to find one.
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