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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Made some progress. Got the 4L80E rebuilt. All new bushings throughout, new high energy frictions/steels, transgo shift kit, HD torque converter with heavy duty lockup clutch, all new shift solenoids throughout. Should be rock solid for many yrs.

Next, ordered a cable actuated driveline e-brake today from High Angle Drivline-Call Jesse at 530-877-2875. Looks like the pic below, only that's not a NP241 (obviously), but same idea. Goodbye useless caddy calipers, hello positively locking e-brake for those moments when a great working e-brake is essential. We discussed the 1350 one ton CV rear driveshaft too. That will be ordered later when I know final length.



Blew the 241 apart after dinner. Ran out of time to go back together with SYE parts. Why do today what you can put off till tomorrow? Haha, pic..

 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
241 back together, sorta. I've got 4 low, neutral, 4 high, 4 high. No 2 high. Good thing I didn't seal the case halves, or speedo housing yet. Gotta pop the rear case back off and investigate. I like how the red anodized collar takes the place of the weak snap ring on the rear output bearing. Much stronger design.

 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
NP241C shift malfunction fixed. Was too dry from the thorough cleaning it received. Squirted a little oil on the shift rail, so it could freely slide back and forth. The shift rail spring couldn't overcome the dry friction to push the shift rail back unlocking 4 high, allowing 2 high. All good now with a few drops of oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Rear anti rock tacked in. Got clearance at full flex. Pretty satisfied with the fit. Glad I went with the bent arms, or I'd have been into the springs.





 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Rear trans mount done. Would have liked a bit more height so the nuts are easier to install, but rear ds angle would have suffered for it. 4L80E mount sits back 10" more than the SM420 that was in there before.

Next up, finish installing the stainless braided PTFE fuel lines, route a new longer rear brake hard line and finish up bump stops for rear coils. After that I'm dangerously close to placing the tub back on the frame.

 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Ok project "swiss cheese" is underway. Doing some exploratory surgery today on the floor pans . Fresh pans here this Wednesday. Pics make my floors look just absolutely in terrible condition, but not that bad overall IMO. Passenger side front is worst, because an OP at some point decided to bolt a 1/4" plate under the floor to "repair" some pinholes there. The pinholes turned into silver dollars sized holes over time. The sheetmetal under the original jack mount is completely gone. Just gonna remove the jack mount entirely and fix that area up with fresh metal. My tub will be more water tight and have proper corrosion protection by the time I'm done. That's my goal, not full restoration. I'm also convinced that most of our floor pan rust issues come from leaky tops and being left outside in the rain. Seems they rust from the inside out, not outside in. That's what my exploration seemed to reveal anyhow. Old news to many I'm sure.

Oh yeah and I gotta fix up the two fwd body mounts. The sheetmetal is cracked and the structural integrity is gone on both of them. I'll fix 'em up better than new.



















 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Thanks Brian!

My focus has shifted over to floor pans. I have alot of work ahead of me, but good progress has been made in the hunt and removal of floor pan rust. All immediate problem areas of the driver side have been identified and most has been removed this afternoon. I'm going to save as much original sheet metal on the driver side of the tub as possible, because it's not too bad. Pass side is much worse and will require full replacement. I'm easing into it with the easy stuff first.

My high speed die grinder is invaluable in the hunt for rusty thin sheet metal. Just let it eat its way through suspect, pin holed sheet metal till it bites into real steel. There's no question about when you get into the good stuff. It's very satisfying watching the rusty sheet metal turn into a cloud of dust when the bit rips into it haha.

In the last pic it shows the driver front tub mount. Pass side same same. I'll be repairing that for sure. Not cool.













 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Welding on 40 year old sheet metal is unpleasant to say the least, but I'm gettin' it done. Drivers side wrapped up. Not gonna win any awards for beauty, but it will hold. On to passenger side.

 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I installed the drive line parking brake. I love the build quality, but I'm not totally in love with it for a few reasons. Mainly I don't particularly care for the chintzy spacers to locate the caliper bracket. I just think that could have been done better, especially for the price, but I'm not sure how and beggars can't be choosers. It's not like I was going to put in the time to design my own and build it. 2nd, this device will likely rip the whole tail-housing off the t-case if used abruptly in an emergency stopping situation. Lastly, the caliper bracket is drilled for a factory install orientation. I've clocked my 241 nearly flat so there will be issues getting the cable to line up perfect. Oh well, it is what it is and it's certainly tolerable. I now have a parking brake where before I had nothing.

P.S. The bolt that looks installed crooked is just sitting loosely in its hole.
It's a driveline bolt temp installed for reference. Pics...







 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Did a double take on the install I did yesterday and I had the caliper bracket flipped around backwards. This part comes without instructions.
You must have common sense and I'm short on that. Now things fit much better and the strength is up to design intent. It's still not an emergency brake (IMO), but it's damn sure a great parking brake!! I flipped the cable lever around so I can pull from the passenger side. Pulling from the driver side was going to interfere with the exhaust pipes.

Pic shows the proper caliper bracket orientation with mitered holes toward tcase. You can also see how close the driveline bolt heads are to the caliper bolt heads. I'll be shaving those driveline bolts heads down a little to widen the gap. The driveline bolts install from the bottom. You can't see, but there is room to get a wrench on them without too much trouble.





 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Things have escalated on the pass side panel. Found crinkled sheetmetal and rot under 1/2" thick wall of bondo. I had a feeling I'd find that because I could see the sheetmetal pushed in when I was burning in the new floor pan earlier. Oh well. Nothing my angle grinder can't help me out with. Pics...







 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Another project I've been working on yesterday and today. Custom drive line brake cable system.

Couple of brackets I made. One of 1/8" thick angle iron. The other I hammered out of 3/16" thick by 1" wide strap.

 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Pic of how the angle iron bracket mounts to one of the tail housing bolts. In hindsight I should have simply spaced it further out and then I could have avoided the shave on the tail housing nub. Live and learn.

 
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