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I have a true 79 F350 super cab 4x4 and was just hit hard in the rear by a woman driving a Mini van. I drove my truck to the body shop and it is now sitting waiting for repair with a damaged bed and rear bumper. I have always loved the look of 1979 4x4 shortbed supercabs. Ford never made a truck like mine with a shortbed but now is my chance.

Has anyone here done this? Ford only made 1731 F350 4x4 SC in 1979 so it is a rare truck and if I do this I dont want the shop to screw it up. Anyone have intel on this?
 

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Z cut the frame. Shorten the driveshaft. Move your body mounts. Install Shortbed! You may have to replace your fuel tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was wondering if using a splint section of metal to overlap the Z cut ( joining the two sides together) would cause stress points? Will this weaken the frame? I wonder if I should just have the frame boxed?
 

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the difference in the beds is in the front .cut the frame behind the cab ,slide it back together and weld it.shorten your fuel lines,brake lines,driveshaft,exhaust,ect.if at all possible cut it at the front leaf spring bracket.that way your leaf spring bracket will straddle your weld.you will be able to use the rear 6 bed bolt holes,but will have to weld some tabs or redrill the front holes. hope this helps
 

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where are you getting your production numbers from?
 

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I think its easier to cut the rivets out of the rear leafspring hangers.
Move them forward the distance you want to shorten. Drill new holes, and bolt them up. Cut the excess off the end of the frame.

That way you don't have to mess with aligning the cut frame halves and splicing them together. I know i'm not skilled enough to do it.
You also keep the frame intact so that it will still flex, instead of trying to crack at the weld seam. I know my ford frame flexes like a rubberband, and i wouldn't want to mess with something that flexes so much.
 

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I think its easier to cut the rivets out of the rear leafspring hangers.
Move them forward the distance you want to shorten. Drill new holes, and bolt them up. Cut the excess off the end of the frame.

That way you don't have to mess with aligning the cut frame halves and splicing them together. I know i'm not skilled enough to do it.
You also keep the frame intact so that it will still flex, instead of trying to crack at the weld seam. I know my ford frame flexes like a rubberband, and i wouldn't want to mess with something that flexes so much.
That's the :barf: way to do it and typically requires a decent amount of lift to pull off without teh axle hitting the frame. He wants it to be as factory as possible, which means taking frame from between the axle and the back of the bed.

Takes longer, is more difficult, but is the right wya to do it.

Justin
 

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I don't know if the frames are the same or not, but I am in the middle of making this same decision. I have a 76 f100 long wb that I am wanting to shorten. my plan was to just move the rear forward around 24" but I ran into the problem of the frame not being straight where the front hangers were going to land.

Z cut the frame. Shorten the driveshaft. Move your body mounts. Install Shortbed! You may have to replace your fuel tank.
I got the same advise about the z cut and plate but after measuring I didn't think there was a good place to take that much out of the frame.

That's the way to do it and typically requires a decent amount of lift to pull off without teh axle hitting the frame.
I am planning to use a set of front hangers on the rear to do the shackle flip and move the rear mounting points down about 3"-4" along with a 3" add a leaf. I can measure the different in the fram possition when I get home tonight and let y'all know the difference if any one wants it.

has anyone done the z cut on one of these trucks that can post some pic's?
 

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Big truck shops that stretch/shorten frames have for the most part stopped doing z cuts b/c they added minimal strength and the poor fit-up that sometimes occurred would actually weaken the frame. The shop that my friend works at does 60 degree cuts and fish plates both sides of the frame if they don't add a frame rail insert.
Definitely cut and shorten the frame between the cab and the axle arch, it's there for a reason.
 
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