If you can build some adjustment into the upper link frame side mount that will be a good thing.well went with ordering parts for the 3 link front. Sounds like I may add a 4th link to share the forces. It will be something close to my last design on the front. That should net me a decent performing suspension. My goals for each are:
30-80% AS/AD by moving upper link mounting
Instant centres a long ways away to aid in wheel recession
Aiming for 0 to -2 understeering roll axis
lots of castor up front to help keep tracking straight 4-6*
3-5* max pinion change through travel
Try and get sprung weight if you can when things are apart. If you go coil overs, try to borrow a set of coils. Use those to get a very close calculation of actual sprung weight by measuring the length in the car.great tips and comments again from everyone. I'm looking closer into running front coil overs now as and option rather than the 80 series stuff. Mainly for tight packaging and more tunabliity for ride height and frequency. aiming for 300-350 lb coils but will measure corner weights before landing those for sure.
I got the front stock 120lb/in number from some info Icon suspension had posted somewhere. They had some stock springs tested when they where developing springs/shocks or something.the reading I've done shows 80 series coils range in the 220-300 so I'm likely a little heavy as you say. I'm tipping scales at 7000lbs loaded up for camping now but have a heavy rear bias. I'd bet the front sprung weight is in the 1000-1200 range. so 600 per spring…..in 6 inches…..does that math go around??? then add in the coils being offset and likely angled from the load….that still is likely a much lower rate as you mention….
Unfortunately I don't have any tech to add, but would you care to elaborate on the above statement? A blackbox is on my list of potential future mods.On a recent run my transmission gave me more trouble but that is now corrected. The land cruiser black box is nice but certainly has some shortcomings that weren't clear originally.
It shouldn't be hard to make a Dana 60 steering arm for RHD. If its just the steering arm ( not a tie rod ) it doesn't have to have proper acketman. It can just be a simple straight arm.Couple questions on the steering: My dodge dana 60 currently sits with a missing top cap on the RH side and a push pull arm on the left. My first thought was to run the Y link style steering that the cruiser has now. Angles are tolerable and with the upgrade in components strength should be there as well. Alternatively I could get a high steer arm for the LH and run crossover or arms for both with high steer. Trouble is this will be set up for RHD truck…. steering wheel on the right of vehicle. What say you folks…. If I go with the Y steering I'll need to replace the top cap on the RH side as its missing all together. I'd likely go with a springless style replacement.
Next consideration is front shocks. Thinking ORI's could fit the bill on the front as they will have adjustibility built into them in terms of ride height, spring rate, and anti sway. They aren't much more if any than a coil over, bump combo and will be easier to package. My concerns are the cold weather we live through up here and any risk of leak down in daily driver use. Don't mind topping them up now and then but don't want to carry an N2 bottle if I can avoid it.