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Discussion Starter #1
So I am in the midst of my first axle swap since I chewed up the gears in mine. I have a 14 bolt 9.5 in it and purchased a 14 bolt 10.5. When I was measuring some things up I noticed the leaf spring searches are different widths. Where is a good place to get New perches? And I was told it has 4.10 gears. How do I tell if it does or not?
 

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Does the overall wms to wms match what you need? Perches?..plenty of vendors here (easier to cut and replace IMO). Ratio....best to remove cover and check numbers....you're going to change the gear lube anyway.....er, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yeah I was. First I was gonna seal her back up and get it sandblasted so I can paint it up. And I'm sorry what's wms?

And then I take it 4.10 will be stamped somewhere on the big gear?
 

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wheel mounting surface

what he means is make sure this axle is wider or narrower then your previous ones by measuring where the rims are going to sit against

it wont say 4.11 it will tell you how many teeth are on the ring gear and on the pinion gear

Open the diff cover and count the number of teeth on the ring and pinion gears. The number of teeth on the ring gear divided by the number of teeth on the pinion gear equals the gear ratio. The tooth counts will also often be stamped in to the side of the ring gear. For example, a 3.73 gear set is pictured below (41 divided by 11).

i was to lazy to drag the picture over but you get the idea
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright. Now I had a couple burs on the ring gear. Should i just clean up the burrs and call it good or investigate?
 

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the bracket link just takes me to the home page. but thats usually all it takes is brackets, 3/4 ton calipers and rotors. when i did mine i had to swap my master cylinder as it wasnt pushing enough fluid for the rear brakes
 

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I just put a newer 14bolt in my 78k5 I had to move the perches .cut the old ones off .ordered mine from diy4x for about 40 bucks I think.
 

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Oh boy....your axle shafts bolt onto the hubs....the same way you took them apart....the drum/rotor will be pressed together with the wheels studs similar to the front...so, from the backside to the outside: wheel stud/rotor/hub....center the rotor best you can while pressing. There may be some lateral play

Ratio is 4.10............ 41/10
 

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Discussion Starter #13
And as far as the shock mounts go. My new axle has both going up and point to the front of the truck. The one in now are opposite of each other. Where can I find New shock mounts for the axle?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Alright so I just have to press the hub out and I'll be good to go with mounting it onto that rotor?

Because I've tried that brass technique with a BFH, but they are all stuck. Tried a torch and everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah. I found that post on here about someone doing it on his buggy and he was able to use a brass round and just smacked them out. I've tried that and heating them up and smacking them again... Nothing. I'm out of ideas and I don't want to waste my time if I can somehow press it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I looked back through it all and it said to use an arbor press. Should I go this route or just keep banging away?
 

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If you want to save the studs, put a lug nut on them (with the flat facing the hammer face) threaded on keeping top of stud/nut flush to save the threads and smack them in.. otherwise, just smack them out. Maybe I've just been lucky but I've never had a wheel stud be that much of a bitch!

a 2 1/2lb sledge is all you should need......if you don't have a large brass drift.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
the bracket link just takes me to the home page. but thats usually all it takes is brackets, 3/4 ton calipers and rotors. when i did mine i had to swap my master cylinder as it wasnt pushing enough fluid for the rear brakes
So I've done some searching on the internet. I ran across more people talking about what abig84 was saying about the master cylinder. Am I going to need to put in another proportional valve and that's it? Or do I need a whole New master cylinder. And if so do I need something bigger or smaller? Or just different all together?

Or could I just get away with something like this?
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179
 
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