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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I going to doucment my K5 Blazer CUCV build thread as i can only find two other similar Blazer builds on here. I will be stealing heavily from both of them (Kay86K5 and badassblaze).

My plan is to have a 1-Ton truck that can carry me, my wife, our dog, possibly a youngin and all our camping stuff to and from the trails. So street legal in my state (for an antique vehicle) but still able to get on a harder trail if needed. My plan is to have a fully functioning and tested vehicle by Labor Day weekend.

I was going to do a First Gen 4runner instead but, Jesus Christ, the prices for them out here on the east coast is fucking ridiculous. Square body chevys arent any better, but atleast i can find deals on them and the parts i need.

So after watching the market i was able to find a sweet deal and i jumped on it. How it looked when i barely limped it home into my driveway.




1985 Chevrolet CUCV w/ 61k miles
350 GM goodwrench crate motor with Edelbrock carbureter
TH350 with Manual Valve body
NP208
10 bolt front
14 bolt FF rear w/ gov loc :barf:
Rancho 2-1/2" lift
34x12.5 general grabbers

The body has two rust spots, but not too bad. I found a pin hole or two in the floor boards. But the frame looks perfect. Its a miracle to find something that non-rusted in my experience of looking at square bodies under the $5,000 range. The motor runs great too, has plenty of oil pressure, didnt overheat on the way home and was very responsive to pedal input.

The truck had been in the seller's family for like 20 years or something. Passed from his dad, to his uncle then to him. And the seller drove the truck as-is as a commuter vehicle for a few years 40 miles each way :eek: until recently when he got a newer truck.

The truck came with a trailer and a truck bed full of spare body and drive train parts. I chucked alot of the stuff, but i will sell off all the unused drive train and body parts.

So i gave the guy the money, had the wife drive the truck and trailer, and i drove the blazer the 20 miles home.

It was the most dangerous drive i have ever made in my life.

That fucking manual valve body transmission can suck a dick. If you are stopped, you have to slam it down into first gear and floor the gas or else the truck stalls. Then you have to hold the fuck on and hope nothing important is in front of you. The brakes are mushy too, so to stop the thing you had to pump and stand on the brakes, which makes the motor surge and push forward. I almost got pushed out into traffic trying to cross a highway.

Fuck all of that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Sooo...... plans to be done by labor day:

Chevy Dana 60 kingpin front axle swap 4.10 ratio (picking up saturday)
ORD crossover steering
SM465 manual swap w/ full hydro system (picking up saturday)
52" swap w/ 6" shackles front with DIY4x4 Abomb
63" swap w/ ORD shackle flip rear and moved front perches
Bumpers and sliders
38x13x16 TSL's (might change)
Paint job
Maybe some creature comforts
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I started tearing into it and trying to find out what i really had.

Here is the interior when i got it. Full of dirt, straw and oil soaked dirt and straw. What a mess.



Here it is cleaned up and the old school leather seats installed. I actually really like these seats, very comfortable IMHO. Only the driver seat has a tear in it. I think they are staying.



Here i got it turned around and the top mounted. Need mounting bolts for everything and the ant colony living in it killed off.





Spent the afternoon yesterday checking on some things. Found the motor casting numbers and found out that it is a GM Goodwrench crate motor. The numbers (to me) read 100660(?)8. Which is good for me i think as they have a good reputation for being reliable, but not a good hotrod motor. Doesnt matter as im not looking to hot rod the motor at this time.



Then I opened up the rear diff and found the ratio to be 11-45 (4.090909). So i dunno where this axle came from. Maybe someone changed them out, im not sure. The more research i find opening stuff up its more of a mystery. Oh well.

Thats it for now until after the weekend. Ill have more parts and some panels replaced.
 

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Sooo...... plans to be done by labor day:

Chevy Dana 60 kingpin front axle swap 4.10 ratio (picking up saturday)
ORD crossover steering
SM465 manual swap w/ full hydro system (picking up saturday)
52" swap w/ 6" shackles front with DIY4x4 Abomb
63" swap w/ ORD shackle flip rear and moved front perches
Bumpers and sliders
38x13x16 TSL's (might change)
Paint job
Maybe some creature comforts
Man if you were closer, I could make you a sweet deal on some parts, traction bars, leafs, stock shackle flip parts, etc....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Man if you were closer, I could make you a sweet deal on some parts, traction bars, leafs, stock shackle flip parts, etc....
gonna send you a PM since im driving to Harrisburg PA saturday to pick up parts
 

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Good start, at least somebody got rid of the 3.07 geared 10 bolt axles and 6.2 diesel that truck left the factory with. Following along for updates. :grinpimp:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Nothing to add but i picked up some parts and did some small stuff over the weekend. Cut the exhaust and removed the hitch setup they had.

This week i plan on replacing a few body panels and tearing out the steering column to get in the new pedal assembly. I think im going to do the manual swap before i jump into the suspension.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
small update.

I replaced a few panels



I started the manual swap. I got the old pedal assembly out, but i think im doing it wrong. It was a PITA to get the old assembly out and i feel like the new one wont go in. I dropped the steering column and pulled the front seat to get it down. But i feel like the column needs to come down alot more to get the new assembly in. Should i remove the sheet metal panel surrounding the column on the firewall? The stuff i have seen online i dont feel like mentions this. Or am i just gonna have to muscle the new assembly in?



 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
And pull the column out totally.
So this is what i had to do. Nothing else was letting me get everything in right. But getting that column out was a PITA. i unhooked everything and i could not get the column to budge. I watched some videos, searched a little, then i stuck my face up underneath the brake booster and found some nuts buried in the firewall and totally covered with that black goo covering my firewall. I dunno if that is a chevy thing, a military CUCV thing, or someone did it aftermarket, but i had to dig out this goo shit just to get a wrench on the nuts. Took forever and i finally got them out and pulled the column. As you can see here, it was kindof hard to find the nuts if you cant see them (there is two in there somewhere)



So then i got the column out and started rocking on the install. I measured the shit out of where the master cylinder went, got it to where i thought it was perfect, and cut the hole. But when i did that i knocked some of that goo away and found that my firewall already had dimples for the mounting bolts and master cylinder knockout from the factory. Duh. I had read about some had them already, but didnt check. It wouldve saved me like 10 minutes of measuring.



Stopped to get some better mounting screws with locknuts. Jeez, this pedal install will take me like triple the time to actually swap the transmissions.
 

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Put hydroboost on it if you're playing around under the dash.

I couldn't find a squarebody one when I was itching to do mine, I made one from a '00 1ton van fit using the bracket off the back of the old vacuum booster and modifying the pushrod to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Put hydroboost on it if you're playing around under the dash.

I couldn't find a squarebody one when I was itching to do mine, I made one from a '00 1ton van fit using the bracket off the back of the old vacuum booster and modifying the pushrod to work.
im holding off on hydro boost. I want to see how the truck does with out. Since hydroboost seems like a huge PITA. But i might do it when i install hydroassist. Just get it all done at the same time. But that wont be until the fall.

Just to update, got the old trans out. TH350 with manual valve body and a non-lockup TC. Gonna make some good money off this on the CL. Saturday, if it doesnt rain, ill have the new Trans set up in.




Installed the new flywheel and clutch in the meantime.

Also, i was reading up about possible floor board modifications. Since im installing a clocking ring for the NP208. Im not going full flat, bu only lifting it 2-1/2".

But i got sucked into the low-hump/high-hump question. So i went out and found out that the truck has the high-hump trans tunnel with the manual hole dimple already from the factory. I dont know if that is a CUCV thing, or all blazers are like that.



Lastly, I finished up the pedal install. But i didnt use the two legs on the clutch assembly to mount it to the firewall. One of the legs wanted to go RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE of the fuse box (which goes through the firewall, so you cant just relocate it). The other leg went right next to the hole for the clutch master and the hole for the wiring to pass through. I thought that drilling a hole there would weaken that area worse than it is. So i didnt install them.

But i read somewhere that if you DONT install these legs, it can lead to a cracked firewall. Even though i havent read of anyone cracking the firewall due to this. Anybody ran into this?
 
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