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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i will try to buy a red star soon so i can post up pictures as the build is underway. Anyone who says they want to do a springover because its cheap is either rich,has tons of time and is a damn good fabricator which i know there are plenty on this board, or they are doing it the wrong way. basically i dont know its costing me a small fortune

The shopping list

Two axles
front early chevy dana 44, flatops, 456 gears, ARB locker, warn shafts, ox u joints

rear 12 bolt arb warn shafts 456 arb
arb compressor and switches

found these axles on craigslist ,oh and everything looks brand new:D

bilstein shocks 5100's and u bolts 400$

blue torch fabrication full width kit 429$

mountainoffroad 3 antiwrap perches and shock mounting tabs 100$

springs
fronts free stock wranglers with xj main
rear quadratec 7 leaf yj rears 150$
bushings for shackles and hangers 60$

redtop optima 150$

rims
15x10 rock crawlers 300$

pe 8000 milemarker with mounting plate roller fairlead 429$ on sale till dec 31 thru 4wheelparts

so i know i did not get good prices on some items but i am moving and bought all this stuff over a week because the build has to be done at the end of jan and i can't start till after the first because parts are still rolling in.

items left are
hysteer arms tie rod draglink
brakes all the way around
rear driveshaft , front is already a square with tons of travel
brake lines are already braided in the front

Stripping the jeep down today.
 

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A soa done properly is not cheap. People who reuse everything that will break or be harmful to them or other people will do it cheaply. Sound good so far
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I am shooting to get the rear half done this weekend and part of the cage. The front blue torch fabrication full width kit is on its way but probably wont make it by tomorrow, i had them add a stinger for 50$ but i specified the angle at 30 deg and 27 inches long. I was searching google images and came across a BTF kit with the stinger and with the standard angle set at 20 deg and 20 inches long it made the stinger less of one and more like a cow catcher. We will see when it shows up. Add the cost of my new 180 power mig and i am well into the 4000$ range. This build up is going to the basics for all the newbs out there that are on the edge of doing SOA on their jeeps. I bought all the brakets to save on time and because i want to keep it as easy as possible for myself by far not the cheapest way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
first canidate before my chevy 44. Dana 44 FSJ wagoneer, flatops, passenger side drop, lockout hubs, dic brakes. I had originally pulled both front and rear axles but the rear, although it looked centered wasn't so without the rear i did not see any advantge to keeping the wagoneer front. Thats when i ended up seeing the full widths on craigslist. The nice thing about fullwidths is that you don't have to narrow the axle, stock axle shafts work and you can usually find a tie rod at picknpull and i hear they are a lot more stable.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
XJ rear VS YJ rear


I thought about going XJ springs in the rear but i do not want to relocate the gas tank into the bed, now the main spring from the XJ pack will find a new home in the front 5 leaf wrangler packs i got for free to stiffen them up
 

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ruffnstuff sells antiwrap perches for alot less.Doesn't BTF sell also?Order at same time as the other stuff and save on shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
setting the pinion for a {CV driveshaft only}. I pointed the yoke at the output on the dana 300 and dropped it 3 deg. centering the axle you can go off the leaf center pins to the WMS on each side.

For a standard driveshaft you would want the yokes parallel to eachother each at the same degree. Its doesn't have to be perfect because you can just buy some degree shims for the axle
 

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Discussion Starter #14
certain questions always get asked so here we go

The distance from gas tank to diff. I am using stock yj packs and i am on the center hole out of three for the spring perches. I think i could go back one hole on the perches to gain some wheelbase but it would be close. The brakelines do not reach and the stock rear driveshaft is completely out of the question.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No xj packs will not fit without moving the gas tank and relocating your spring hangers. The screwdriver is pointing at the center pin on the xj pack, they move the axle way back and also add about 2 inches of lift. This picture was taken with the jeeps weight on the leafs.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
On to the front

I remember cutting off the old nerf bars about 12 years ago when i was in highschool. We were leaving at 6am so i woke up at 5am and started cutting. My neighbors hated me since the jeep used to sit outside. Thank god the person who welded these on were horrible at welding because they came right off
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I ran into a problem, the 12 inch travel bilstiens do not fit in the rear when fully compressed, they are 18 3/4. From the shock mount to the lowest point i want to mount the shocks on the axle its at 19 3/4 obviously an inch of rod showing is not enough. Has anyone made long travel rear shock mount hangers that do not penetrate the floor, i know they make them for yjs but the frame mount looks different.
 

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I like the color... don't repaint it
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i had some extra square tubing around from my drive shaft project so i made a rear extended mount from memory. hopefully it is somewhat close so i can duplicate it with the right measurements. The tubing is 1/4 inch but i still might tie the two mounts together with some DOM, on the straight cut i left some of the bend at the corner for strength. It should extend the shocks away towards the front and up, i'm not sure if i should just drill a hole at the top and run a bolt through it or just weld one on
 

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