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Sweet, Im going to follow this. I want to do the same thing on my CJ. What are you shooting to be around for your wheelbase. also what size tires are you planning on running.
 

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are you going to run those wheels up front? seems like backspaceing is a bit out there, but again i dont know that much... that how you guy run them?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
seriously I can not believe how well everything fit:smokin: Nothing ever lines up just right. well this time it did BTF has good quality control for sure. I just got home its about 1am but i got most of the front full width hanger/ bumber, winch mount, and winch in tonight. my camera was not charged but it looks killer. The extra seven inches on the stinger and the 10 deg increase from standard BTF stingers came out just the way I wanted. The axle in that picture with rims is for the rear. If your going full width you are pretty much screwed if the cops want to be assholes so for now i'm not really worried about it being so wide. I am using 4 inches BS 15x10 with 37 inch iroks. I think i will only be 3-4 inches over stock so maybe around 97-98. If you look at the previous page it shows you can't go back that much farther without moving the gas tank which wont work since i want my back seat
 

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I used the same axles on my CJ-7.I used stock YJ springs with a couple more added and MORE perches in the rear.I set the axle in the back hole and clear my tank easily.I also used MORE's offset plate in front and pushed it forward 1" more.My WB base is 98" on 36"ers.Also on the rear I moved the shackle hanger forward 1".This gave me more shackle angle and more droop.Angle is about 45*.
 

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It looks real good. I like my back seat too in my YJ. With a 1" body lift you might look into raising your gas tank maybe 3/4' or so if it would be worth it. I have a 2' body lift and raise my tank 1 1/2". It has made a lot of difference for scraping rocks.
 

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Sweet build up:D I've been researching the same process. Did you find a complete write-up on this? If so, do you have the link? Most I have found on this topic were YJ's.

Can't wait to see pics of that bumper on there!
 

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Sweet build up:D I've been researching the same process. Did you find a complete write-up on this? If so, do you have the link? Most I have found on this topic were YJ's.

Can't wait to see pics of that bumper on there!
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
I used the same axles on my CJ-7.I used stock YJ springs with a couple more added and MORE perches in the rear.I set the axle in the back hole and clear my tank easily.I also used MORE's offset plate in front and pushed it forward 1" more.My WB base is 98" on 36"ers.Also on the rear I moved the shackle hanger forward 1".This gave me more shackle angle and more droop.Angle is about 45*.
how are those axles working for you? I hope these help,warn shafts and some bling joints, with breaking out there.
 

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Been working great.I have been running these same axles in 3 rigs now.All shafts are stock and I only have stock gearing exept for the 4:10s in the axles.I am building a 14 boltFF for the rear now.Will be regearing the front to 4:56 to match the rear.And hopefully get a 4to1 kit in the t-case.I am looking for a cheap D60.Only because I want to goto 42"ers sometime.
I even built my own rear disk brake setup.Used stock D44 rotors calipers and caliper brackets.Had to mount the rotor behind the axleshaft to get it centered.Works great.Can lock up all 4 tires easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
so i had a long vacation from this project but I'm about 90% done as it sits right now.

This picture shows where I thought the the front bumber and outboarded shackle hangers should be welded at. I could not have been more wrong. Although the original holes line up perfectly with the two pre drilled holes in the bumber that is not where you weld it up. I learned the hard way and after being a way from the jeep so long I had forgotten that I lost an inch of wheelbase from my failure to measure properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Big fuggin mistake that would have been. The draglink was hitting the spring just on level ground. I called partsmike and told him my problem and you could hear in his voice that he knew I messed something up because the draglink should never hit the spring just sitting there. He ended up recommending a 1 inch spacer and a GM tapper pitman arm but a top mount instead of from underneath. Like a newb I bought the items. I did some research and found out that its really important to have the spring flat because it will effect most of the steering and perch angles. Like i posted earlier i bought the axles complete so obviously the work was performed by others. These others decided to tap the hysteer arm using 9/16 coarse thread instead of fine. I thought bolts would be fine but later through searching some engineering forums found out that the load is not displaced correctly on the the bolt shaft causing it to sheer at the head. So I called partsmike again who refered me to Dorman studs and i was able to buy some 9/16 coarse thread 3 inch studs. They only came in 30 QTY. Ya! I have a life time of spares. You CAN NOT use bolts instead of studs for steering arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Partsmike pitman arm PM535PA- CJ power steering shaft/ gm taper balljoint
GM pitman arm balljoint Es2027L

These are the correct parts not the parts i was going to use to fix my mistake. Those parts were never installed becasue I knew I had to man up and grind the fugger off.
 

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