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Discussion Starter #41
So I started grinding and grinding and grinding. Now I know why they gave me plates to re enforce the frame. In the correct location it is real close to the end of the frame. If you look closely you can see where it was welded before ( 1 inch back)
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
you can grab a tie rod from a fullsize chevy that uses the ES2234 R/L balljoints, cut off the standard rotation side, get a 7/8 18TPI tap, and make your own draglink. My draglink came out to 27.5 from end to end. From my experience all the balljoints are 7/8 18tpi thread but this is for a chevy axle, 44 and 10 bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
The shock towers are junkyard fords and offer a shitload more of travel and bolt right in place of the other towers with the exception of drilling one upper hole. Watch out for the brakeline on the inside of the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
My shocks are bilstien 5100's. The fronts measure 17.91 collapsed and 30" extended. These are way to long but should work. I thought like most newbs that this thing would flex like crazy SOA. It probably flexes well but there is a reason people are putting coil overs. It appears I have even less flex in the rear so I bought 15.11 collpased/24.33" extended shocks for the rear. The distance from the stock upper shock location too the rear axle is extremely short. For the sake of time i did not use the square shock towers I made. frankly they look booty and I will end up buying hoop style mounts in the future
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
rear output yoke too 12 bolt yoke was 23.5 center too center. If you switch to a CV drive shaft you have to replace the yoke on the output of the dana 300. My 12 bolt had a 1350 yoke instead of the 1310 yoke which really fucked me up. Now I'm running a conversion U joint. The CV yoke was 70 bucks. Stock dana 44,12 bolt, and dana 30 pinion yokes should be 1310 u joints. Dont buy cheap kragen U joints they are worse than stock
 

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Just wondering, why did you not go with a full hi-steer (inverted T) instead of the crossover setup? I'm about to dive into the steering on my project. Also, any plans for an anti-wrap bar for the rear? I hear the YJ leafs don't hold up too long without one.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
This jeep is setup really simple. The less parts the better. The valving on the shocks is really heavy 270/55. The front springs are CJ heavy duty extra leaf rears. The rear springs are heavy duty new wrangler rears with anti wrap perches. I only plan on running 35's and through searching this is a good setup to combat axle wrap. If it doesnt work then i will add a anti wrap bar. The cross over steering is cheap since you only have to purchase one arm 3 conical wahers, 3 studs ( I have 27 extra ) and a drop pitman arm with GM taper. I have been wheeling this heep for 15 years and know how to make parts last. Yeah stuff breaks but generally its not a big deal. Except that one time in a buddies yota when I broke all the steering, front drive shaft, right birfield, the gears exlpoded and we knocked a tire off the bead, broke my thumb,slept in poison oak in the middle of bonanza gulch at hollister. That sucked. Basically I think it will do fine for its intended use. I just bought a T19 close ratio 5.11 1st gear tranny to round out the package.
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
what would be the benefit of spending twice the money on the Mopar Kit when the howell now comes CA legal. The Howell kit looks real easy to install also. Any one have any recent experiences with either fuel injection kit

Got word back from Jeff arabia at arabia's overkill about using howell or Mopar. His price does not seem to labor intensive as I have priced out this swap before for parts only and its a lot of money but his installed price is decent.

Email from Jeff
"The most bang for your buck will be to do the Mopar EFI conv. with a Borla header. I do not recommend the Howell system, as it is not easily repairable on the trail, the idle quality is poor, and you will gain way more h.p. w/ the Mopar."

I'm gonna take his word hopefully I can have it done by jan.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
T19 transmission/ Atlas 4 spd/ and howell efi install

I went with the howell because I thought it better to spend coin on the 4spd than throw money at that terd of a motor.

The 4spd is freakin long. I ordered thinking I would use the stock adapter on the T19 since the atlas will bolt right up. I also got it with the short tailhousing. Two big frigging mistakes right there! The Howell EFI kit does utilize a speedometer input so out goes the short tail housing and in comes the long tail housing since this is the only one with provisions for a speedometer hookup. So I go from atlas 4spd shorttail housing 15" to the atlas 4spd long tailhousing 17". Then when reading through the atlas website, which is good but could explain things in more detail, it shows an adapter for the T19. So I call advance and they say the adpater is shorter than the stock T19 adapter by 4 inches. I think this would be a huge improvement so it looks like I have to bust out another 600$

measurements so far

T19 - 11 5/8"
T19 stock adapter 7"
AA adpter 3.25"
atlas II 13.8"
atlas 4spd short tail housing 15"
atlas 4spd longtail for speedo 17"
 

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Discussion Starter #54
ok more measurements

Stock CJ7

bellhousing/T5/and dana 300 = 33 1/2"


My new parts

T150 bellhousing 7"
T19 11 5/8"
atlas 4spd 17"

about 38 3/4"
I'm losing 5 inches of drive shaft going from 21" to 16"
I think a TJ rear drive shaft is 13"

I also just realized that my square front is going to be a huge problem at pismo next weekend and there is no way I'm gonna have a new front driveshaft made up with all these drivetrain changes happening when I come back.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
A little update.
The rebuilt T19 and atlas adapter are in, just waiting on the atlas again. Since the 4spd is so long we decided to lengthen the rear. I was looking at all the threads for XJ rear springs in the back and just couldn't get over how tiny they look. I cut the main eyes off the XJ pack and laid a 94 blazer main on top. Details are in this thread started by Mr. N.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=656732

Also I bought some genright products. The full stretch corner guards and the full stretch rocker guards. My buddy who is now taking over this build made same tube fenders and is installing all this crap:D The rear shock towers are getting swaped for some F250 front shock mounts. I should be around 100wb now.
 

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Lookin good out there bud. I too went with the Howell TBI kit (over ten years ago)... not a single regret.

I'm running a 44frt/12 bolt rear too. It'll work well for your setup. I sure like the stance of your Jeep.

Keep up the good work.


 
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