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Discussion Starter #1
So here goes the build. It's going to be done in stages to prevent it from being down for long periods at a time, and money permitting. I had an older build thread that took a few different turns, and it was pretty much all for nothing as I still had an outstanding title issue. Now that it's squared away, I'm getting this thing on the right track.

The plan is for this to be a 3rd vehicle for us and the primary trail toy/parts runner/etc. I plan to be able to drive to the trail and back, however if it gets busted while there, it's not a huge issue. Overall it'll be a pretty mild build with the end result of being a capable and dependable vehicle.

As it sits now:
Lift is RE 4.5 with TF control arms and RK trackbar
35" BFGs
8.8 rear end
HP 30 front with CAD
4.0/AW4/231 w/AA SYE

Build plans:
Pull the motor and go through it
Redo the wiring. I'm thinking of going with an EZ Wiring kit.
OBA
New front axle (thinking of swapping a D44 and running spacers in the rear to match)
Interior improvements
Roll cage
Paint
And whatever else comes along

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Pretty much how the interior looks now except the dash is a little more put together.....although it's about to come back out to get rewired.

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Discussion Starter #2
Checked compression today. Ranged from 70-110. Time to start tearing it down. Should be in the machine shop by next weekend. Plan is for a stock rebuild. I'll only be replacing items that need to be replaced, aside from typical maintenance items and old sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pulled the wiring harness tonight.

IMG_2161.jpg

Pulled the battery tray. Rust has claimed part of the first layer. I'll be installing two batteries when it goes back together, likely relocated in the rear.

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The entire engine wiring harness, labeled with tagged zip ties. Overall it's in pretty decent shape, but there are a few trouble areas.

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One of the harness connectors. This thing is like chalk at this point and will need to be replaced.

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Another shot.

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There are a few other connectors that will need to be replaced as well due to corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
More problems with connectors.

IMG_2167.jpg

Not sure what is all on the relays here. Looks like a mix of corrosion and grease/oil.

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The motor should be out later this week. Once that's done, I'll start addressing the interior and the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is under the back seat on the passenger side. When I cut it out, I'm going to see if I can fit a battery there. If so I'll mount the second battery on the driver side.

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Some more cancer in the rear wheel well.

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I have no clue what happened here, this happened with the PO.

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Looks like it a fix was attempted, but the wheel well was completely neglected and the fender was fixed with some shitty bondo work.

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I'm not to concerned with the rear fender as I'll likely be adding in corner armor sometime in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
After stripping the wiring harness last night of tape and loom, I was impressed that it was in better shape than I had imagined. A little cleaning and a few small repairs to some connectors and splices, and it should be good to go. My main concern originally was the fuse block. Many of the fuse connections in the fuse block have broken connectors. I've done some searching around, but have not seen anything showing that the fuse block could be rebuilt. After looking around on waytek's website, I came across new female terminals. I think these will work just fine in the fuse block.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/30038/PACK-CON-SERIES-III-FEMALE/



I'm hoping to have the dash pulled next week and I can get started on the wiring harness in there and rebuild the fuse block.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's been hell trying to find time to work on this project. I managed to get some new connector covers ordered and replaced. Also started putting the wiring loom on it tonight and covering it with 3m 88 electrical tape. I can see now that it's not as nice as I'd hoped, but it will do for now. I may end up recovering it later down the line, but this is how it will stay for the time being.
ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1424405054.548104.jpg


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Got some more work done on the jeep today. I started off looking at the second part of the wiring harness, and after replacing some duct tape and deciding that I need to replace a few wires, I moved onto the rear body. I need to order a few more things before the harness is done, wire, connectors, crimpers, etc. Until I get the rest of the things in I need, I'm going to hold off on working on the wiring as it just pisses me off every time I mess with it.

This is the hole I started with as pictured above. I'm still completely baffled as to what happened to make this hole.
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Crumpled in rear column.
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My first attempt at any sort of body work.
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Finally said screw it!!
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Looks good. :D
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I'll be welding in a few patch panels soon and fabbing up a new rear bumper in the coming weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The little man helping out.
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This is under the rear passenger side seat. Looks like I'm going to have to drop the exhaust and remove the panel that supports the seat to fix it.
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More holes have started appearing as I begin removing the paint and rust.
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This is the rearmost column on the driver side where the hatch closes against. This was originally covered with the factory sealant, however after removing it, there was obviously some cancer beneath it.
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A little more attention with the wire wheel resulted in this. I was a pretty amazed as most of the other areas were rusted through from up top it seemed. I'll have to get beneath it to finish removing the rest of the rust.
IMG_2304.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Near the latch.
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Most of the driver's side floor pan is rusted.
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There is definitely a lot more rust than I was hoping for. Looks like some new floor pans will be in my near future.

Quick question for those of you with more body work experience. I understand that epoxy primer is what I need to be using to seal up the metal, but that's a two part spray system. What can I use short term from an aresol can that will provide rust protection from sections of the body that I have already worked on?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I've got a little progress made over the last week or two. I was hoping to have finished the rear floor pan, but just haven't had time other than an hour here and there to work on it.

Most of the rust has been removed on the drivers side. The top protion will likely be grounded down and coated. The portion that has been removed was getting pretty thin, especially near the filler neck where it was paper thin.
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Not sure how I'm going to go about replacing the sheet metal that attaches to the filler neck. I may just cut it back to the neck and call it good, or I may remove the neck completely and remake it.
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After having done all this work, it's getting tempting to just drop the tank in from the top, and build an enclosure around it, and build a skid to go beneath it. I'm just not convinced that I want to give up the room required to do it just yet, but we'll see.
 

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I have a 90 XJ I'm working on and it makes me glad I live in the desert where there isn't enough water to rust anything (typically). I'll be looking in on your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Got the wiring harness mostly finished up and put it back in the engine bay. Still need to get some clamps and do the final routing, but it already looks better.

Pix later tonight.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Gotta love working from home. I was able to pull the dash on my lunch break. It feels like I'm constantly bouncing between projects with this, but I'm confident it will all come together.

I'm hoping this is as far as I'll be striping the interior, but you never know.
IMG_2387.jpg

I'm going to attemp to repair the dash similar to how Green Truck showed in this thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/930717-cracked-dash.html

IMG_2388.jpg

This is seriously about how the wiring looked when the dash was in the Jeep. I'll be rebuilding the fuse block and re-routing the wiring harness to make it more streamlined.
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