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1993 Jimmy 5speed swap

4K views 42 replies 6 participants last post by  Gnarly93 
#1 ·
Gone through 3 4l60e on my SAS Jimmy and just over them completely. Started to put together parts to swap to 5speed.
Just picked up from a local salvage yard a 5speed and np231c from a 1993 chevy s10 with all the levers and shifters. Found a 89 pedal setup online. Have a new clutch master and slave. Flywheel and clutch plate bolts. I just picked up the transmission today so I'm trying to look up the casting numbers if anyone can help with that. I then can order the correct clutch and flywheel and front seal retainer and seal and fork...ect. figured I would make a thread for anyone wondering about what it takes. Any help is appreciated.

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Discussion starter · #6 ·
This is a nv3500/hm290. I don't have a understanding for rebuilding automatic transmissions. If this manual transmission takes a shit I can rebuild it myself.

Yes right around 14" lift. Tom woods driveshafts that im already planning to take to a local shop to have shortened or extended depending on what it's going to need.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
This isn't a rock crawler yall. This Is a dirt trail / mud / water crossing rig, no need for 3/4 - 1ton stuff. I live in Florida. It's on 31.50s now and will see a max of 35s. It is a new 4.3L. No need to over build it more than it already is. If you want details on the build it's on s10 fourm.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Lol sorry. To many people think you need to build everything to the absolute max to have fun. It's absolutely not true. Stuff will always break no matter what you build. Just know your limits for your particular setup. I know for the trail cruises and mud and water I get into the transmission will do just fine. People act like everything is a toothpick unless it's a completely built 100k rig. Have fun with what you got. If something breaks, fix it. And you know your limits.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I was approved at Mavis tire for 1500. I'm going 35s but I want the oem rear tire carrier and a set of 16x10 wheels first. Then I'll throw the difference of cash on top for 5 35s. She needs the transmission work done before all that...
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·

I'm picking at the pedal assembly. You do not have to remove the entire dash. Just the keen panel, column and cluster. The only part that got me was there is 1 10mm bolt directly back behind the cluster where the cluster wiring harness plug mounts, remove it and you will see the top of the 10mm you can look on the bracket underneath and you will see the threads coming through the bracket. Disconnect the brake boost and rod. 1 10mm bolt to the dash under a/c controls. Unplug everything in the way... took about 45min to get it out. Im getting in the pool now and I'll stuff the manual assembly in there and mark my holes to drill.



 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
The clutch master and slave I ordered was wrong, so I shipped that back to rockauto and already have the correct one coming. That's why I haven't drilled the holes in the firewall yet. Some say the bolts are 3/8ths and the piston housing is 1 1/4" but I rather wait for the part to come and measure it myself before I drill. So next weekend is going to be busy working on it. Parts have been trickling in. Today I received the front bearing/seal retainer and front seal and pivot ball. It all went together nicely. For anyone replacing the pivot ball I just used a gas torch and got it hot as heck and got some vice grips in there and twisted and pulled for 10min and got it out. The flywheel and clutch showed up along with the ARP pressure plate bolts and flywheel bolts. Waiting on the OE GM clutch fork and OE GM throw out bearing to arrive and then this transmission should be ready to go in. I did notice in the shifter assembly I am missing a square bushing to keep slop out of the stick. I couldn't find a s10 shifter or that bushing so I ordered a shifter for a full size truck and am robbing its guts to rebuild the s10 shifter. That's all the updates for now... here's the pictures.






 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Alright so I had the wrong front seal / bearing retainer that the throw out bearing rides on. I got the correct one in the mail today. And I couldn't find rebuild parts for a s10 shifter assembly. So I bought one for a full size truck and just so everyone knows all the parts are the same besides the actual stick and housing. I was able to use all the parts and my shifter is like new. Not bad for 85bucks. I also got the correct clutch master and slave cylinder. So I can now drill the holes in the firewall and put everything back inside. My buddy found a first gen bervarda and snagged me the back seat and armrests and driver window switches for 100 bucks. He's going back to check the condition of the tire carrier for me. Tomorrow im putting the dash back together after mounting the clutch slave and then pulling the transfer case to get my JB SYE out of the 233c to put in the 231c.




 

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Got side tracked today. I was able to get the pedals and master cylinder put in and dash and column back together. Column is in park so it started right up. I swapped the brake light switch over to the manual pedal assembly, those work. Still have to figure out the wiring for the reverse lights. Had to run and get another front seal for the bearing retainer now the transmission is ready to go in. Tomorrow the transfer case and transmission comes out. I bought a new transmission jack so it should help ease the removal and installation. Rockauto forgot the clutch master push rod so im waiting for it Tuesday.
 

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Discussion starter · #24 ·
Reverse lights are in the original automatic transmission plug blue or brown and orange I think? Can't remember for sure. One powers the other grounds it .
So I would just unplug the green and blue wire connector on the neutral safety switch on the column and extend those to the connector on the side of the transmission? If so. Seems easy enough. Or just the light green and ground the other wire...
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I believe either would work. I just take the trans harness and find it. And extend/ shorten to the manual reverse light switch.i always use both original power and ground. But I think a separate ground would work too. And usually I wire the park/neutral wires to the clutch safety switch.

I'll try and find it on the round 4l60e plug but I was looking at pinout diagrams for it and I didn't see any on that connector. I just see where it is on the column on the park/neutral switch. Confused...

Transfer case is on the bench to get the sye out of and installed into the 231c case. Auto Transmission is out and new flywheel and clutch are torqued in. From the mounting face / bellhousing of transmission to the center of the shifter is 16 1/4" back, so I put a dot on the underside of the body to drill with the hole saw. Then I'll stuff the transmission in and cut the shifter opening accordingly. Hoping I don't have to modify my sky offroad design crossmember...
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Transmission is in. The nv3500 4x4 Seems to be the same length as the 4x4 4l60e. My crossmember still works. Tomorrow I'm doing the transfer case guts swap and get that stuffed back in there. Im glad about the transmission length, that means my driveshafts will still work. I dont get the master cylinder push rod until Tuesday but I should have this thing back together tomorrow waiting on it to come in the mail. In one of the pictures you can see the blue tape over the shifter assembly mount so that hole is spot on. Super happy with everything so far.






 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Swapped the SYE into the 231c. Stuffed it in there. Hooked up the transfer case linkage, hooked up the hydraulic lines. Put the driveshafts back in. Need to address my exhaust again, waiting on the clutch push rod, need to cut the shifter holes inside. Need to Finish gutting the carpet and get the back seat in there. Pretty much waiting on the clutch push rod. Everything else is simple. Hopefully next weekend I'll get to drive it some.

 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Had to cut and weld the shifter to work with the console in the Jimmy. Just waiting on the pushrod to Come Tuesday todo a test drive. Then button up odds and ends. After pictures are 3rd gear and 4th gear. Knuckles just clear the radio.


 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
So frustrated, so I ordered the complete hydraulic master to slave. They didn't send the clutch rod that comes with it. Got in touch with rock auto and they agreed to send me the part. Today I got a box with a empty bag in it from them. He then said the parts are out of stock and to send the whole thing back for a refund but it's already installed. I can't find just the clutch rod anywhere local. So I decided to buy a master cylinder with the clutch rod from autozone 16miles from home. Got there and the computer says they have it in stock but they couldn't find it. Went back on rockauto and bought a master cylinder with clutch rod and it should be here Friday... so heated. I did pickup syncromesh and transfer case fluid.... eerrr
 
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