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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm looking to get more power. I'm thinking of a 2.0 conversion. I think the tracker t-case I have will work and maybe the transmission as well. Any help would be appreciated.

My tranny is an ODBII 4spd auto. The kick frame is a 1995 but the body is a 1996. I want it to pass ref inspection. I really like the slush box so i will keep it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Yes I did!:shaking:
That had to be the most worthless link/thread I have ever been reffered to.

I did call Trail Tough and Brent is out of town so I will pick his brain when he gets back. Linda did say that only he would know the answer to my question. This means that either no body has done it and Brent is working on something like this or there may be a hitch to do it. So I will keep you guys informed about my progress.

I saw the balducci brother tracker which I really like but it is not smog legal and with all my links and such keeping the cats in the right place may be difficult.

I have done some research and have come up with this.
My transmission and transfer case will work with the engine but needs a new belhousing.
The t case is the same as well.
The 1.8l in the sidekick sport is the same engine family as the 2.0-2.7. The engine bay is modified though but the slated engine for the sport would not pass CARB so they stuck the 1.8 in instead.
I still need to look at a 2nd gen tracker to see if the stock locations of the cats will work with my 1st gen will all the suspension mods.

I am changing the gearing, again, to 5.29. With the under taker this will change my gearing from 7.32:1 to 7.83:1 which will put it closer to the power band on the freeway. We shall see if this helps.
 

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I am not real sure about the different bellhousing. I have a 2liter in my rig and it is bolted straight to the 5spd that was hooked to a 1.6. The flywheel had to be machined but the bellhousing bolted up no problems.

Mine has no cat but the way it comes off the manifold is gonna be a bitch to deal with.
 

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I don't understand why people go ahead and modify the stock 1.6 flywheel when they can easily fit a 1.8, 2.0 or 2.3 flywheel in the stock 1.6 bell housing and that is way less expensive and you have the added benefit of having a stronger and heavier flywheel (which means more torque). Yes, the stock 2.0 pilot bearing has a bigger inner diameter to accommodate the thicker propulsor shaft the OEM J series engine's trannies have, but you just have to make a brass fitting to compensate for the thinner propulsor shaft the stock 1.6 trans has.

I have a 98 kick with a 2.0 swap and megasquirted. It's not CARB legal but I'm having fun on it in industrial quantities!!! The cat problem can be addressed real easy. You have 2 cats on a stock sport kick, and thus two O2 sensors. Just get the complete Wiring harness off a sport kick with the ECU - Daaahhh!!! ;) - and all CARB related parts like vac canister, idle valve, EGR and flow meter (which in a 1.8 is inside the throttle body assembly).

BTW, your revs meter will not work at all since the ignition setup on each engine is totally different. The revs feed off the stock distributor on the 1.6 (btw, some 89 kicks come with a carbed 1.3) and on a J series engine the signal comes from the CAS (crank/cam angle sensor) and these are totally different signals (1.6 is analog and J series are digital). So here is where you need to be creative. I've seen people make electronic circuits to transform analog signals into digital and these circuit have a variable resistance in them that modifies the signal to match meter reading to real engine revs. I just don't know how to make them, sorry.

Here's a link to my 2.0 swap photo gallery. It's done for street use but still, mechanically, it's all the same shit.

Hope this helps.
 

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Yes I did!:shaking:
That had to be the most worthless link/thread I have ever been reffered to.
Agreed...

I saw the balducci brother tracker which I really like but it is not smog legal and with all my links and such keeping the cats in the right place may be difficult.
Awesome build and must be loads of fun!!!

The 1.8l in the sidekick sport is the same engine family as the 2.0-2.7. The engine bay is modified though but the slated engine for the sport would not pass CARB so they stuck the 1.8 in instead.
Nope. The 2.7 engine is in a different family from the 1.8 engine. J series engines incorporate the J18A, J20A, J23A, now the J24 (Kisachi/new GV engine, though these have variable timing systems) while the H series engines include the H25 and H27.

I am changing the gearing, again, to 5.29. With the under taker this will change my gearing from 7.32:1 to 7.83:1 which will put it closer to the power band on the freeway. We shall see if this helps.
Should be a killer rig on the trails. Hope everything goes well on the build. The J20 offers nice amounts of torque and revs real nicely. Just be sure to check the oil pressure regularly and try using 10-30w oil as the heaviest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
WOW! Information overload:eek:
Thanks

My track kick is an OBDII so it's one of the later models, not sure if it's a J model or not. If all the electronics will work from a sport then what about the gauge cluster? I see the sport models on CL all the time and they are cheap. I could remove all the wiring and swap it to my ride. If the dash is different then maybe a dash swap would happen also.

About the 2.7, I was told that it fits the same bell housings. And the electronics are the same. Some say if you have a 1.8 in your ride then a 2.7 could just be swapped in.

About the pilot shaft, if it needs something machined then I would just go with the trans that came with the engine. When it comes to mechanical junctions I rather be able to get stuff from OEM than have to machine it. I do have an auto trans and would like to keep it. I think it's stronger than the 5spd cause in my old sidekick I smoked 4 of them.

This is what I got from your info, wiring harness, complete, headder, down pipe, cats and gauge cluster from a 1998 sport. Then an engine and trans from a 2nd gen 2.0 vitara.

The gear swap is to make it more drivable on the street but yes it does well on the trail as well.

I have done a couple swaps in my time, but before when did them there was not so much info from the web. I put a SVO turbo charged 4 banger in a 1985 ford ranger pre runner. I also did a 4.0L swap in a ford ranger as well. The 4.0 passed smog but the turbo engine was a year older than the truck so it was green sticker.

I just want to minimize the down time of my ride. The kiddos like to ride in it and I don't want it sitting for a year while I'm trying to figure out what I didn't in the first place.
 

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What if this is for a trail rig with no concern for emissions? 1991 Tracker w/a 1.6L 8V to a 2.0 or 2.3 L. What would be involved to do it and needed from the donor rig?

It is currently a 5sp but an auto would be nice. I have 4:1 gears in the current tcase and would like to keep that if possible.
 

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Yes, I understand you. I actually had my kick sitting out almost a full year since when I started on the swap there wasn't shit of info on the web. Had to take all the measurements and test parts all by my self. At least I now know what works and what doesn't.

Regarding the parts:

Exhaust: I used a 2000+ 2.0 Vitara exhaust manifold which has way better flow than the 96-99 sport kick.

Intake: Intake manifold could be any one year that you find, even from Aerio cars will fit (actually the J23A on 04-07 Aerio's have better flowing intakes that any other J series engine pre-07 and the injectors flow more fuel). It is important that you have access to the wiring harness and ECU that came with this intake manifold. I will explain.

ECU / Harness: As above... It's all about connectors; the idle valve is way different in spot kicks, 2.0 vits and aerio. J23 aerio's have the idle valve on the bottom of the throttle body while 2.0 aerio's as well as 2.0 vits have it on the intake manifold right where the plenum starts. Flow meters are very different too. on 1.8 and 2.0 J series engines (on any vehicle) they are integrated to the throttle body where as on J23's it is external and near the air filter box. CAS (crank/cam angle sensors), though looking almost exactly the same on all three engines (pre 2007) are way different in pinout. Thus the importance of getting all the smog related parts from the same vehicle.

note: ego's and egr's are basically the same, though I do recommend getting the from the same vehicle too as these are parts that can vary in performance depending on how the vehicle was treated buy the previous owner.

Trans: hehehehe, this is what's really getting to you. Easy, the 2wd 5 speed kick tranny is the best. High pinion gearing and compact, yet strong (that's the one I'm using, obviously without any transfer - street use). Bolts right up to the J series engine block and input shaft reaches well into the pilot bearing. The pilot bearing fitting I made is the small (not bigger than a quarter) brass bushing I had to make to compensate for the thinner input shaft the 1.6 trans has (compared to the 1.8/2.0/2.3 on j series equipped cars). I'll be posting a pic of it today in the afternoon if I can. But trust me, it was a $25.00 part that I had my local machine shop do for me, including the material.

Clutch / flywheel: As of right now, I'm using a J23 flywheel from a 04-07 Aerio. It's a 215mm flywheel that will accept a 1.6 Sidekick clutch system as well as Mitsubishi Mirage / Eclipse plate and disk - I actually am using an ACT MB012 plate and 4 puck lightweight disk made for Mitsubishi Eclipse without any problems, though I had to make my clutch hydraulic type since the 1.6 clutch cable would not hold tension. J20 and J18 flywheels are 200mm (there's an ACT clutch kit for the 2.0 Aerio that works well). They all will fit inside 1.6 sidekick bell housing without rubbing to the inner walls.

note: I used a stock sidekick starter, but had to get the 2.0 vitara flexplate in order to work.

Engine mounts adapters: Completely custom work I did my self. Cut out of 1/4 steel plate and fabbed then so I could use the stock 1.6 engine mounts (these I filled up with 3M polyurethane and will never break apart). Just be sure to leave exactly 1/2" of clearance from the oil pan to the steering rod (don't know the exact name of it but is the rod that connects from the steering box to the pitman arm), so that when the engine rests on its new mounts can clear this rod by about 3/8" which is good.

note: It is imperative that you use a vitara oil pan - either 1.8 or 2.0 - as the Aerio oil pan's belly is located on the front of the engine where as the vit's oil pan is towards the back, thus aerio oil pans will interfere with the steering rod.

EDIT: Adding throttle pedal info...

Throttle Pedal: In difference to the link posted below on a swap done by Aftermarket 4x4, I did not fix my stock pedal. I sourced a stock sport kick throttle pedal and installed it on my kick. It bolts right up!!! and you then use the 1.8 throttle cable. Haven't compared the stock throttle pedal on the kick to that on a Baleno/Esteem 1.8 nor to any of the Aerio's, but there's a good chance they will work too.

I think that about it. Be sure to find trouble along the way (what swap doesn't, right?) but it all will fall into place. You will notice how the Sidekick should have had this engine from factory instead of the 1.6L. If I forget something I'll let you know. PM me if you need. No worries.
 

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For trail use only, no emissions required... dude, get the 2.0L short block. Slap in a 2.3 head which flow better air (bolts right up - J series engines are interchangeable, just like Hondas but even better).Turbo and Megasquirt the bitch and that will surely be a bad ass torquer.

Why not the 2.3? The have lubricating problems. All the engines 1.8, 2.0 and 2.3 use the same oil pump and it's a bit small for the 2.3L. I bought a Toga High Volume oil pump for my 2.0 and it works wonders!!!
 

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I don't understand why people go ahead and modify the stock 1.6 flywheel when they can easily fit a 1.8, 2.0 or 2.3 flywheel in the stock 1.6 bell housing and that is way less expensive and you have the added benefit of having a stronger and heavier flywheel (which means more torque).

Because i had 2 1.6 flywheels and 0 2liter flywheels!
 

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As promised, the brass bushing pics. Took them today of an extra one I had made just in case something happened with the first one.

This is the back part of the bushing, which facec the input shaft. Here you can see the two different inner diameters this bushing has. This is because the 1.6 input shaft has two different diameters on it and thus I had to compensate for that too.


And this is the frontal part of the bushing, which goes inside the inner diameter of the J series engine's pilot bearing.
 

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Looks like jarysidekick has it pretty well covered...but...heres a link to Sean Devinneys (Aftermarket 4X4) site and his swap...

First Gen Tracker 2.0L swap
I was looking for that link!!!! I came across it way back when I was reaserching for my swap and used it for the good info it has, though not particularly crazy about the engine mounts. Still, awesome link.

BTW, I edited the earlier post with new throttle pedal info. Also, really pay attention to the power steering part of the build on that link. I used the 2000+ 2.0 Vit return line as well and had made a custom pressure line on a local hydraulics shop for about $75.00. Regarding cooling, well I went a bit fancy here and lashed out a good amount of money. Went ahead and bought a Honda Civic / Del Sol aluminum rad and had my local machine shop change the inlet and outlet to the position I needed. Then bought on the local junkyard a stock A/C fan off an Aerio and fitted it to the rad. It covers the rad completely and cools like a bitch!!! Oh yeah, one last thing (yeah right, they never end...), if you will not be running any A/C on the swap, use a 61", 5 line belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well,
Today I talked with brent for some time (Thanks for that valuable time Brent.). He said that to make it smog legal it may have to have a 5 spd swap, but he did say that he is up for a challenge and if I brought my geo to him it would be the R&D vehicle for a future kit. So if the auto ends up not making smog (Throwing codes.) then he would abort the mission and start over on a 5spd swap. I am excited about the price, I could do it for less than what he quoted me but it will save me heart ache in the long run and maybe money also.

I shall keep you updated.
 
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