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djc1084 said:
really wow i checked and dubble checked all that stuff i think now that i have it do to the clutch (the piolt berring or presher plate) i got it back to moving it is just nowi can not get the clutch to disengeg.
Can't get the clutch dis-engaged? I had a similar issue. My push rod for the slave cylinder was too short on the 95 TJ slave I bought. I had to get one from a 83 CJ slave that I had. It weas an inch longer. Works perfectly.
You can probably make one from some metal rod from Home depot
 

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yeah i know but it is a hard job alone with out a trany jack and i think that the fact that i did not use one when i put it back in might be the reason for some of this prob.
 

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yeah i made one that was about half an inch bigger and the problum was still there but not as bad so i an going to make one that is an inch longer tomarow because as you know my daily driver is in my back yard and wont go into gear
 

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SuperJoe said:
maybe it has somthing todo with the hydraulic clutch? master or slave.

i like to check every possible avenue before i completely remove a transmission. it is not aHUGE job man it it time consuming and that dang tranny aint made of styrofome.

Yes, definately check your slave cylinder for air in the lines and try a longer push rd before removing the tranny.
 

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yeah i had it apart today checking that and it looks to be air free it has resistance like it did before i did the swap i think it has been to long
 

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I did read some thing about how if you dont put the trany on right that you can mess up the piolt bushing and that can cause well read it from i hate this place but good point "This pilot bushing should be a light drive fit into the crank bore. Care should be taken when installing any pilot bushing as they are soft and easily damaged by crude installation techniques. A damaged pilot bushing can bind on the input gear giving symptoms of clutch drag."
 

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Ok so i made an about inch maybe inch and a half longer push rod and the problum is still there i am in the middle of removing the trans i think making the piviot ball on the other end might help i will also insoect the piolt bushing. any ideas of what else i should check while i have the trans pulled?
 

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:mad3: oh ok so i found out what was wrong with it on top of the clutch which is fine i fixed it. The 2wd low kit i put in ok i hate tereflex now more then ever but ok so the new fork for the case they send yeah it fu#@ing broke aaaahhhhhhhhhh like the little part the slides in the grove in the selecter broke off clean.:mad3: i no longer have any tereflex products on or in my jeep and never will.:mad3: :mad3: :mad3:
 

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Well at least you got it fixed now. :D
 

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i have a ? on this...i have a 00' SE looking to swap a ax-15 out of a tj...can anyone please tell me the exact parts list i need to have before i start so that it is a one time shot...thanks Russell
 

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Getting ready to do the conversion all over again on my Dad's 93' YJ 2.5L.....
I liked it so much I wanted to do it again. LOL!
 

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RNM said:
i have a ? on this...i have a 00' SE looking to swap a ax-15 out of a tj...can anyone please tell me the exact parts list i need to have before i start so that it is a one time shot...thanks Russell

Well I just collected all the part numbers back together again to do this on my Dad's YJ.
Here ya go:
Advance Adpaters parts: 42 Stainless Hose w/TJ fittings- 716130TJH, NV4500 Pilot Bearing - 716167, 23 spline input shaft for the Transfer case to fit to the AX15(or NV3550) - 716054
Tri-County 4x4:Inertia Ring
Autozone:84' Camaro 4cylinder 5 speed clutch disc - CP4198, TJ throw out bearing(I used a 95' TJ TO bearing), front and rear shaft seals for the transmission and the transfer case as well as a rear seal for the motor. Since you already have all this stuff apart you might as well replace all your seals.
I didn't replace all mine and now i have a leak from the rear output shaft on my tranny.
You will need a 98' Dodge Dakota 2.5L Bellhousing (Junkyard) Approx. $90-$150)

Since you are working on a 00' model Jeep. you should be able to re-use your external slave cylinder and pressure plate. You will want to go ahead and replace your throw out bearing if yours is not fairly new.

The last things you will need is to shorten your driveshaft approx. 2" at your local driveline shop and modify your cross member to accept the new transmission mount.

OH yea, you will need to get the Transfercase shifter from a AX15 to fit up your AX15/NP231 combo because the original shifter linkage off your old tranny will not fit any longer.

Literally the hardest part I found in the whole project was taking apart the Transfercase and replacing the 21 spline input shaft with the 23 spline input shaft. It wasn't extremely difficult and if you are remotely mechanically inclined you can do it. The worst part is getting the retainer clip off the 21 spline input shaft.

The rest of the project just bolts up and goes right together.
It is literally the easiest Transmission conversion out there for the 2.5L.

Hope that helps. If you got any more ?'s... Just ask or pm me.
 

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thanks alot jwrape...it will be after Christmas before i do this...but i did book mark the page so that i have the info...thanks again...Russell
 

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RNM said:
thanks alot jwrape...it will be after Christmas before i do this...but i did book mark the page so that i have the info...thanks again...Russell
No problem. Ask Q's if need to when you get into it next year.
 

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alright, so from what i saw when i glanced thru this, im gunna need a 96-98 dakota bellhousing.
 

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White93YJ said:
alright, so from what i saw when i glanced thru this, im gunna need a 96-98 dakota bellhousing.
Do more than just glance through if your looking for info on this swap, its spelled out several times.
 

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I'm going to bring this back because I have a question. These parts: Advance Adpaters 42 Stainless Hose w/TJ fittings- 716130TJH, is nloy for the YJ swap, correct? I can just use my external TJ slave on the Dakota housing.

Very good writeup, BTW. My D300 needs a bigger brother than the AX5.
 
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