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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First off, it's a totally stock 1998 2.5L automatic TJ. The AX-15 I'm putting in is from a 98 XJ.

I know it's not super hardcore but I'm having troubles finding info about my swap. I'm swapping the 3 speed 30RH automatic in my TJ to an AX-15. I know all the basics. I need

Dakota 2.5L bell
2.5L flywheel
2.5L pressure plate
9" 14 spline clutch disc
slave / master
pedals
ect.

Hell I have most of that. There are tons of write ups online for the AX-5 to AX-15 swap. But nothing for and automatic 2.5L to AX-15 swap. So The info I'm really looking for is ECM and sensor compatibility. Few questions:

1) The 30RH I'm pretty sure is not an electronic shift trans. Am I correct?

2) do I need to swap out the TPS? I heard I did but I'm not sure if that was only if you have an electric shift Trans

3) is the CPS (on the bell housing) the same between auto and an AX-15? If not will the AX-15 CPS work with my ECM?

4) Do I need to get a manual 2.5L ECM or will my automatic one work?

Any info would be really appreciated. I'm about half way through the swap. I'm just looking for the Dakota bell right now. I'll put some pics up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did search and I did find that specific thread. However that thread is going from Manual to Automatic. I want to go the other way around.

None of my questions are really answered in that post.
 

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Joe, no prob. There are a couple swap threads here from auto to manual that may help. there is one on the sm420 swap (I believe was done on a auto YJ 94ish), and a few that may help (6 bangers auto to manual and vice-versa).

A couple tyhings to add to your list

-driveshaft mods
-flywheel and pilot bushing bearing - sure the 2.5 will work here? Also check inside and outside diam of pilot, you may need to use a waggy brass bushing to accommodate the diams.

The AX-5 woudl be the simlest aprpoach to start searching conversion, so shoudl help point out any electronics changes as this is a more common swap. I hear ya, you got the AX-15 which is a better setup, but searching for the AX-5 swaps may help out some.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I know about the DS. I have a SYE and a 31 spline 8.8 that are going in it as well. I'm chopping down a Ford Explorer CV shaft on the lathe at work. As far as the pilot, Advanced Adapters sells a special extended one that fits into the bevel on the flywheel of the 2.5L.. part# 716167

Like I said I've done my homework.

I will look for people who have done Automatic to AX5 swaps in TJ's. I didn't think about that. But I seriously doubt there are many of them. Who would??

It's so damn hard to find actual "tech" on Jeeps. You either have people gutting them and hanging 'tons and SBC's or dudes trying to figure out which seat cover matches their bikini top best.
 

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Joe on another note, I had this saved from some place, do not remember where, but think these links and info shoulod be very helpful:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181361&highlight=ax5+ax15

http://porc.purdue.org/Forums/viewtopic/t=5748/postdays=0/postorder=asc/start=0.html

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=956031

Not sure where this is from, but had it stored here:

96-98 Dodge Dakota bellhousing from 2.5L
Clutch Disc 84 Camaro 4 cyl 4 speed --- Centerforce P/N 383824 or Autozone P/N CP4198
Clutch Throughout Bearing --- NAPA P/N BRGN4093
Pressure plate --- Keep your stock 2.5L pressure plate for your year
Flywheel --- Get your resurfaced or buy a new for your year 2.5L
Clutch Slave --- Dodge Dakota 96 NAPA P/N UP360045
Clutch Line --- makes it easy to hook up to Jeep master cylinder to Dakota slave Advanced Adapters P/N 716130TJ + 716130H (call them at 805 238 7000 for your application)
Pilot Bushing --- Advanced Adapters P/N 716167 for .750" OD input shaft tip. If smaller .60" OD then reuse stock. Measure the AX-15 with calipers to find out.
T-Case Linkage --- Stock linkage from an AX-15 equipped XJ or NOVAK SK2X
Clutch Shift Fork --- See factory part numbers below if your external slave AX-15 did not come with the throughout bearing linkage


For INTERNAL SLAVE AX-15. You need these parts to convert the AX-15 to external slave.

4636 382 ----- Front bearing retainer (this part can be had from partsmike.com for less $$$ than the dealer but it is still ***
5252 053 ----- Seal front bearing (got it from the dealer its cheap)
5210 7555 ----- Clutch release fork (relatively cheap around $20 from dealer)
5208 7542 ----- Clutch release pivot (cheap from dealer or may come on the Dakota Bellhousing)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The ECM shouldnt care weather its auto or manual
Thats what I was assuming until I really started thinking about it. I did a 94 Ranger... Automatic to manual without any issues. However a lot of stuff changed in those few years with the OBD systems and other engine managment. I'm just hoping it doesn't through any codes. Here in PA our vehicles won't pass inspection with out a clear OBD scan
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well after searching some part numbers I found the AX-15 (4.0L Cherokee) CPS is different from the 2.5L CPS. So that will have to be swapped with the trans.

Still no info on the ECM. Guess it's gona be a wait and see thing.

PICS:







going to work on it more today.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oh and I decided to pull the body because brake lines are shot, the floor has a big ass hole in it, rear main and some other issues. I just figured it'd be easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
cut the floor out



nep pan installed.



Should have all the stuff for the trans swap on Wednesday. Then I'll know if the ECM will work
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update on the swap.

There was 2 electrical connections that went to the Automatic. One wasa 4 pin connector for the Neutral safety switch / back up. And one was for the torque converter lock-up solenoid.

The 4 pin:

Pins 1 and 3 get jumped out to bypass the neutral safety switch

Pins 2 and 4 get switched for the reverse lights

The 2 pin:

This must be jumped out with a 40-50 Ohm resistor (at least 3 watt... I used a 50 ohm 10 watt resistor) in order to fool the PCM into thinking the lock-up solenoid is still present and not give a CEL.

It's all done and ready to rock
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh and the CPS was the same.

I had other CPS's that had different plugs on them.... so I just ended up using the CPS from the automatic.
 

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Bringing this post back from the dead. How successful was this swap? I am looking at doing the same thing. Convert from 30rh to AX15. I am aware of all the hardware and parts, but am sceptical on the pcm and CPS issues. Were there any needed changes in that end?
 

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A 30RH PCM will run fine with the manual trans, as the 30RH is hydraulicly actuated. It will however, throw a code or codes for the torque converter clutch as those are actuated by the PCM. Might be the "No RPM drop at lockup" and/or "TCC circuit" codes. Simple to swap in a 2.5l PCM of the same year as your vehicle to clear those up if you need to do smog tests. In Commiefornia, you will need a Referee BAR tag to make the swap legal in which case you will need a manual trans pcm of the correct California or Federal persuasion.

IIRC, the CPS is the same between the 2.5l 30RH and the manual trans of the same/similar years. You can look it up at Rockauto and see if they are the same for your year or not.

Normally a 30RH will have a three wire neutral safety switch. The center wire in the connector gets connected inside the trans to ground when you are in Park or Neutral. The two outer wires get jumped together in reverse for the reverse lights to come on. IIRC, on most of these TJs, the trans harness is separate from the main harness, simple enough to get one and install it from a TJ of the same year with a manual trans, or you can splice the two reverse light wires from the 30Rh switch to the two wires on the AX-15 reverse switch. And connect the park/neutral signal wire to ground or even with a hidden switch in line as a theft prevention.

The other thing is if you want the clutch pedal to interupt the starter. Auto trans TJs will have the switch connector for the clutch master cylinder mounted switch clipped into a jumper wire under the dash near where the master mounts to the firewall. You can leave it jumped if you want to be able to crank in gear. If you will have a kid drive it, better to connect the clutch pedal safety switch so it won't crank unless you hold the pedal down to the floor.
 

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A 30RH PCM will run fine with the manual trans, as the 30RH is hydraulicly actuated. It will however, throw a code or codes for the torque converter clutch as those are actuated by the PCM. Might be the "No RPM drop at lockup" and/or "TCC circuit" codes. Simple to swap in a 2.5l PCM of the same year as your vehicle to clear those up if you need to do smog tests. In Commiefornia, you will need a Referee BAR tag to make the swap legal in which case you will need a manual trans pcm of the correct California or Federal persuasion.

IIRC, the CPS is the same between the 2.5l 30RH and the manual trans of the same/similar years. You can look it up at Rockauto and see if they are the same for your year or not.

Normally a 30RH will have a three wire neutral safety switch. The center wire in the connector gets connected inside the trans to ground when you are in Park or Neutral. The two outer wires get jumped together in reverse for the reverse lights to come on. IIRC, on most of these TJs, the trans harness is separate from the main harness, simple enough to get one and install it from a TJ of the same year with a manual trans, or you can splice the two reverse light wires from the 30Rh switch to the two wires on the AX-15 reverse switch. And connect the park/neutral signal wire to ground or even with a hidden switch in line as a theft prevention.

The other thing is if you want the clutch pedal to interupt the starter. Auto trans TJs will have the switch connector for the clutch master cylinder mounted switch clipped into a jumper wire under the dash near where the master mounts to the firewall. You can leave it jumped if you want to be able to crank in gear. If you will have a kid drive it, better to connect the clutch pedal safety switch so it won't crank unless you hold the pedal down to the floor.
This is super helpful. Thanks for your reply.!
 

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IIRC, the 30RH 231J t-case has a long 23 spline input gear, The AX-15 231J may or may not be the same spline or length depending on which one you get. The later ones are 23 spline for sure. The gear is easily swapped though. Drivelines may work, IIRC, the AX-15 and 30RH are similar lengths.
 
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