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you should seriously consider making that into some sort of "kit", or having people send you their D300 and having you modify it. The DOE kit is like $800, though I think it includes the clocking ring and stuff also...
 

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Discussion Starter #22
BrettM said:
you should seriously consider making that into some sort of "kit", or having people send you their D300 and having you modify it. The DOE kit is like $800, though I think it includes the clocking ring and stuff also...
I can barely find time to work on my rig, let alone building things for other people :D

Tass
 

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RUFF said:


And he was asking a Question about a Dana 20 not a 300 :flipoff2:
doesnt matter. the 20 is the same way,so same answer applies :flipoff2:

nice job on the home-brewed flip
 

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Madmarx said:


Damo, this is DEFINITELY incorrect. The left stick is for the front axle, and the right stick is for the rear axle. With the 300 in the stock position, the sticks all the way forward is low, middle is nuetral, and rear is high.
Actually your wrong too, the left stick is for the rear with it flipped the correct way. with it flipped it would be the other way around tho. :flipoff2:

Dallas
 

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have you had a chance to take it out. Did it hold up. Are you running a buggy or full body. i was thinking about the shifters in the floor. need more info.:eek: :eek: :eek:
 

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wilburburns said:
Are there any lubrication issues or problems with flipping a D300?

Cliff

yeah is this going to be a problem? if not that is a killer setup:D
 

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No lube issues, it's slinger. I would take the time to figure out the proper fill level and put a plug in it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ramrock said:
have you had a chance to take it out. Did it hold up. Are you running a buggy or full body. i was thinking about the shifters in the floor. need more info.:eek: :eek: :eek:
I've had it out 4 times now, it works great. It shifts easy and it's holding up great to 42's and Mog axles on my (semi) full body Toyota :) The twin sticks have come in handy for FWD only getting around trees etc. I'm entering a local rockcrawl next weekend so I'll se how it holds up.

Tass
 

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Since you got a full body. What do your shifts look like in the floor. And where did they come thorw the floor. And did you end up flat or do you got a little billy or alot of hang down. Any pictures.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Ramrock said:
Since you got a full body. What do your shifts look like in the floor. And where did they come thorw the floor. And did you end up flat or do you got a little billy or alot of hang down. Any pictures.:D
You can see the shifter setup in the 3rd pic on page 1. I cut the floor out to clear the shifters and covered it with a sheet of rubber.
Here's a pic of the underside, the t-case is pretty much flush with the frame but my suspension link mounts and crossmember hang down a little.

Tass
 

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OK since I have a dan20 sitting in the garage doing SFA it would be feasable to flip???...hmmmm
 

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Digging this back up. This is actually surprisingly easy to do. I'm kind of stumped on one point though. Where do you cut the front output housing as to keep enough meat at the bottom for it to seal and still retain the area of the casting where the detent springs and balls go? Here's a few pics I found on where this guy cut for is DOE kit. He measureed 3/4" down from the shift rail holes. As you can see this cuts the area where the springs go in half.



 

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Discussion Starter #38
If you look at the second pic you can see a piece of angle on the far left side. That's what I used to cover to holes on the case, it also has a "lip" welded on to help hold the output shaft cover on.
The triangular pieces around the shift rods are part of a bracket that holds the detent balls and springs in.

Tass
 
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